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Let me know if you have any questions. I only had a little space and limited options where to mount the cylinders The more flexibility you have the better It will hold more weight and you can balance the pull down force you need You could also install some sort of prop that holds it down while you load it All things I couldn't do because of what I had available to me
Yes the container (sometimes called a hopper) should have a lid on it that is easily opened Fill it near to the top (or the fill mark if it has one) The salt I use is "Diamond Crystal" brand I have a well and my water is not only acidic but has iron in it which is very common So I use the "Iron Fighter" version of this salt
When I bought the bike it had the radiator from a Honda shadow (if I remember correctly) It worked terribly and was overheating on longer rides So I bought an original radiator for a 454. There were modifications they had made to flit the Honda radiator and I had to restore some things to get it back to stock One of the mounting brackets on the frame in particular The Honda radiator might have worked better if they had compensated for the thermostat and Coolant connection sizes So if you want to do something like that, those are 2 important things to check because the Coolant will get turbulance when flowing and the ability to cool will be affected Like connecting a small water hose to a bigger hose, you lose pressure and cause turbulance in the water
But what you're forgetting to tell everybody while you're changing that I act or IA c or idle valve control is that you have to measure your old part with the new part?So that when you do fire, the vehicle up, it doesn't race away.Trying to suck in air that it thinks that it's missing.So you're not being totally honest with everybody when you go to put the new part in
Your right that is a problem. So I have a suggestion that might work for you. I ended up moving mine next to the entrance door. That way the space in front isn't wasted and you have to keep the rack closed Motivates me to keep it organized 🙂
Really easy instructions to follow, but such a shame that you don't give the course measurement of the float height as a datum to get people started. Having a course measurement to start with would give you a chance of getting one or two right and mean less removing the float bowls. Otherwise good though.
This is perfect and just what I was searching for. The frame on my tractor (where the transaxle mounts to) cracked. Before replacing the frame I want to understand why it cracked. I don’t know if it is because there is too much tension from one of the control levers or the drive belt pulling the transaxle forward too much, or if the frame just wore out over time ( perhaps something inside the transaxle has metal shavings and is making it too hard to drive the tires). If something is pulling the trans too far forward then I need to fix that first. Your video will allow me to test if things spin freely with no load.
After i replaced the flex cable the screen become White, The cable is not loose i tried Arranging it many times but still white, do you know what causes the problem?
White screen is almost ALWAYS caused by a poor connection. These cables can easily be defective right out of the package. If you can return it and get another that is what I would try first. While you wait for a new cable, check for problems with the connectors on the camera. Make sure they are clean and the plastic isn't warped. If it's warped it won't pinch tight enough Look for brown or black burn marks anywhere you can see soldered connections or chips and diodes. Let me know how you get along
@@mreinsmith My 2 Flex Already Came And I Already Try The 2 But The Screen Is Still white, i Inspect The Connectors But Couldn't See Warp, what Could Be The problem?
I'm sorry to hear that Are there any other small ribbons or wires in the camera that could be loose? Otherwise the only 2 things left are the screen itself or a burnt out component If you had another similar camera you could temporarily connect the screen from it It's a risk though, It's all low voltage but it "could" burn out the other screen
When the flywheel is removed, is the centre part where the woodruff key lines up with supposed to spin freely or is the flywheel a solid unit. My shaft opening spins freely not sure if it's busted and don't want to pay 300 dollars for a new one if it isn't. I've replaced, starter clutch. And new starter. Still spinning freely and think my actual rotor is busted.
I looked at a cut part and the slot for the woodruff key is cut into the taper of the shaft, so as long as it was tightened enough (even if it wasn't fully torqued) it shouldn't be spinning on the shaft
A bit difficult to explain but will try... The Rotor isn't spinning on shaft as the woodruff key is in place. The problem on mine seems to be that the Rotor seems to have been made In Factory in 2 separate pieces the part that slides over that with woodruff key and then the rest of it. My question is should the Rotor function as one part that locks in place. Or is the centre of the Rotor able to move independently of the Rotor or has mine broken loose?
One more thing, be conservative at first with the hormone, fertilizer, water, or whatever you use. You can always add some if it's not going well, I hope you can save it!
You talk way too much to get to the point but thanks for the video really needed to see which way the batteries went back in thanks for the video!! LOL 😅😂😂😂👍👍👍
Ironically I remember thinking, what the heck do I say about this!? I guess I overcompensated 😁 Ok, so if you want a laugh check this video we did, I think you'll appreciate what makes this one funny ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TL8uE5jdXxc.html
@@mreinsmith I disagree it's a 6 minute video if it was close to 10 we'd have a problem and you kept me from making minor mistakes like the order of the batterie coming out which is useful never stop over explaining because if someone complains about it then they weren't fully listening. no offense to this dude above obv its a video about batteries you dont need to pay that much attention i guess, but it's helpful for the people who do.
My screw broke off in there. I got the head out of the chuck but the rest of the screw is in there still. I was able to get the chuck off but I can't put a new screw because the old one is broken off. Any suggestions?
So start by finding the parts diagram for the drill and see if you can determine what the screw screws into See if it's something you can get to by taking it apart and if that would actually make it easier My thought is that once you get it apart there might be something that it goes through that once you get it off, the screw will be sticking out enough to grab on to it Did I explain that OK? Aways hard to do in a couple of paragraphs Let me know if that works in case we need to try something else
I need to see the fasteners 🫤 I took my bumper off and now I can't figure out which fastener goes where and I didn't take any photos and there's like nowhere online where I can find this information.
So what would help, I might still have the sound, or would music be better? I probably took it out because music was playing in the background and that causes a copyright violation But I don't care about monetization anymore So let me know
Thank you for this video. Dealership rigged me up a thumper fab headache rack with a rear wench and we couldn’t get remote to work. Changed out batteries, contacted thumperfab & they told me to get with dealership to see if they connected it properly & I came across this video & followed your instructions & my remote is now working! Thank You for help
i have the same model, but mine just happened a few months ago. i thought the battery is too old that's why the screen display shows battery level too low. i bought a new battery the other day and it's still the same. i tried cleaning the battery terminals but still turn off after showing battery level low. but it works when plug in with the charger.
It makes me wonder if one of the contacts is loose or broken on the inside, on most devices the contact is soldered. But that doesn't mean it would be fixable
@@mreinsmith good batteries, two years ago, it does everything the same as the video except it's only ten seconds before it stopped blinking and it I let go and held for 3 seconds and still nothing
By any chance do you have trouble with the buttons not working occasionally? I had one where I literally had to use a pencil (eraser side ) to get the button to hold (replaced that one since)
Depends on the problem, however... First quick simple thing to try is a vice grip, if you are using an impact wrench it shouldn't take much to hold on to it, the impact should Crack it. Make sure your hand is in a good place to prevent it wacking you. If not use a pry bar or something similar to block the vice grip from spinning and hit it again with the impact gun
The next step is to check all line fittings, but be careful, the housing or the fitting can strip easily Tightening them tight really shouldn't be necessary with a compression fitting it might be best to replace them, but it can be a real pain to do because you'll probably have to make new lines. Especially if you are impatient like me 😁
One other thing, do yours have a check valve, old ones just have a ball bearing. I just can't remember where it is at the moment. Just remember crawling around on the floor when we dropped it.
