Automotive diagnostics and repair on a large variety of vehicles to show the world how things should be done to a factory standard. How to get better gas mileage by doing fuel injection cleaning services and using good quality fuel.
I just ordered the same hose for the same leak. For the end that connects to the engine. Is there a clip or anything that I need to get to to remove the outlet that’s crimped to the hose?
my 05 volvo s60 had alarms going off for no reason, I used an obd to reset a DDM module and then an hour later the car started ran 2 seconds and immediately shut itself off, the next several attemps to start car would not rollover - cleared codes, car started perfectly ran for 2 seconds and then shut it self off. every time I reset codes I can get it to start for 2 seconds but then it shuts itself off and will not roll over until I clear codes. Care gives the following codes: ECM -720B - ECM internal Fault Signal missing ECM 3100 - Misfire start up ECM 291B - Fuel pump control module Signal missing ECM 3110 - misfire cylinder 1 start up ECM 120D - Mass Air Flow Signal too low ECM 440B - Fuel Level Sensor signal Missing CEM 8B01 - Relay parking lamps signal too high CEM 3F02 - Shift Lock Signal Too Low Any thoughts or help appreciated
Thank you sir, this helps a lot, though like someone mentioned, might clean it first to see if that does it before buying the part. I will say this - it stalled on me earlier again, i cranked it up and HELD the key all the way to the right and it was fine - of course, dont do that going down the road lol. I'm kind of counting my chickens, though - but im very certain this is what's happening..thanks.
I had the problem of low oil pressure in my 05 Xterra, when I was idling the needle went lower than L and the oil light came on and when I accelerated the needle went up to the middle. The first fix was to change the oil sensor, the oil pump and the relief valve, even so the problem continued. The second fix was to change the oil gallery timing gasket and after that the needle only goes down a little before the letter L but the oil light no longer comes on.
I have oil in my coolant , but my coolant is now empty it's just the milky stuff in it , can I still add new coolant in it so I can make it to the shop to get it cleaned out or what?
Very common problem , make sure the wheels are in a straight ahead position , loosen the lock nut , now unscrew the 6mm stud slowly , feel the steering wheel play going away . the best is to have the front wheels of the ground to feel the easy motion of the steering wheel , if you go too far , the steering wheel feels tight . you dont want that . Make a long allen wrench , the one that has a ball on the end .
This is an old video but I thought I'd leave a comment, I'm currently 17 years old with a 2008 pontiac grand prix, we had a similar issue but my front cover gasket failed on the inner ring, causing the oil and coolant to mix. We thankfully caught it before it had become so bad that the entire cooling system had become clogged with sludge. Now being that I'm 17 I thought that changing that gasket was a no go and at first thought of just scrapping the car. But my car only has 137k miles on it and has mostly been upkept its whole life. I took the challenge being that it's my first car and changed that gasket, I took it to a shop of someone I know and spent about 2 weeks time changing it. It wasn't easy but I can say from personal experience that the job can 100% be done by someone with enough determination. Irrelevant at this point in time but I thought I'd share my own experience.
I’m almost 100% positive this is my problem. I had to remove all of that in order to replace the water pump, major ordeal for me. I don’t remember hooking that tube back in. Thank you!!
@@JohnSadlersAutoRepair Well, that hose was not plugged into its spot. I plugged it in, no change. Cleaned the IAC, helped a little bit. When I unplugged the Air Flow sensor, nothing really changed, thought that odd. Going to get some cleaner for that and try that after work today.
Glad I found this, exact same situation happened to my wife. She took her Murano to the dealership for an oil change and their recommended service included replacing cracked ball joints for $1,700. Pictures indicated exactly what you pointed out, surface cracks on the rubber boot but no crack on the assembly and no grease on the arm at all. The car drives normally no steering problems and it is also extremely low mileage. She declined their recommended service (so glad she did) and paid for the overpriced oil and filter change and left. She and I were just talking about trying to find a trusted mechanic for a second opinion. Thanks so much for posting this. It's so difficult to trust a dealership. We will never return to that dealership.
Thanks very much for your message! Great news that you got out of that dealership, I've found small independent shops to be the most honest. Try a few, just stop in and ask what they offer for services and what the warranty on the repairs is.
I have the same issue. when i unplug and re plug the battery the check engine light goes away but it comes back a day or two later. All thee codes. anyone knows why?
Ive done same things and have high idle again ..thought is was transmission but I think it's what you explain ed..I cleaned took apart the throttle body. And it ran good for about 6 months since I've replaced iac tps dpfe,all sensors twice???? Last time I drove it started acting like it was stuck in gear revving like it was going to blow then I parked and went threw all the parts checking them and after I got back in drove it home it went away?? Plz help
Came to this video because i got tired of my old man saying "you don't need to change that fluid, nothing happens they run forever" decided im gonna get the fluid and just do it myself
Thanks for pointing it out I have two hose disconnected from the EVap purge valve and air cleaner box could you please point me which the right hose are connected?
Had exactly the same symptoms on my 2000 5.4, found small cotton seed fibers tangled in MAS. They were almost to small to see. Swapped with known good part and the light stayed out. Fuel trims were out of spec at idle and tripped codes 171 174 under load.
You have to drop the exhaust, sub-frame, pull the half shafts out, disconnect everything from the transmission, and remove the transmission. To get to all that you'll have to remove the battery, battery tray, air box, and starter. I know because mine is leaking. Sigh...
This is how my 2013 Honda accord looked. Honda said it was the oil pump seal. I still get a little burning smell. It’s been 5 days now . I don’t see any puddles anymore but still a little moisture. Do you think I need to give it more time or what’s your suggestion
I have a 2005 Yukon 5.3L 4x4. Looks exactly the same. I may have a very slow rear main leak. I just got it and am watching it now after a fresh oil change. Has 216,000 miles on it. Seems to run great though. 3 questions: 1. Was there a cover on your inspection hole that shows the bottom of the flex plate? Mine does not have a cover of any type. I can see the bottom of the flex plate. 2. I have a pair of ramps that raises vehicles back or front tires by about 12". Would that be helpful to use for this job? 3. So the rear seal has two parts? A shaft seal, plus a shaft seal cover gasket? If the cover plate gasket leaks, where is that oil coming from, the rear main seal that's leaking? Why is there cover plate gasket to begin with, to keep the seal/crank area as clean as possible? Thanks!
Technically, a CVT is an automatic transmission because the driver isn't required to shift between the forward gears or operate a clutch pedal manually.
