Welcome everyone, My name is Michael and I have been doing collision repair for 12 years! I would say I am more old school and a minimalist when it comes to what i do but i am fast and efficient! Many people would say im a butcher or whatever you want to call it because I don't do things "By the Book" but when you are doing 10-20 repairs a week for auction it is what it is! But i think my work is decent for the time i put into things. By no means do I think I am the best and in the collision repair world you can learn something new every day!
It does. I just let it draft out by itself most the time though. Comes out cleaner since my floor is dirty atm haha but if I have the booth cleaned I’ll run the fan.
Probably should have skimmed it with fiberglass first with what looked like a hole and what looked like dents still not hating just constructive criticism.
There was a small pin whole that won’t effect anything. I use to drill and dent pull everything if u look at my longer videos and have done that for many years and it doesn’t give me an issue. Have cars I’ve repaired years ago that still look great. But in some cases I do put Duraglass.
@@abrahamyerena932 yeah video is so hard to show stuff. Trying to figure out better angles haha. Yeah I been around it most of my life and ended up following after my grandfather and father in the trade.
It’s an activator. A gallon of body filler comes with a 4oz tube of it. Doesn’t take much. The more blue the filler the faster it hardens. The less blue the slower. Can also make a mistake and put to much or too little and it will not dry at all!
A word of advice from a body and paint tech of over thirty years.. You seem to have an eye for straightness in body panels and I recommend you start learning PDR (Paintless Dent Repair).. If the paint is still intact on the dented panel(s) with no flaking, you can do PDR to repair the panel/fender and be done.. Instead of drilling holes, use glue stick, tab(s) and puller to work the dent out.. Rubbing alcohol will take the glue off.. The metal is very easy to calculate when you use a line board to read the metal and have precision to bring the metal back into shape. After all, metal body panels do hold memory and you can bring it back to 99.9% straightness with PDR.. Car dealers are using PDR techs in their lots on vehicles now and have been.. Check out some videos on it.. Hope this helps you further your skills..
@@Basicbodyrepairguy You're welcome! Here are some examples of what can be done with PDR to give you a better idea - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vE4EtafqRww.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2s7WZr7W_3A.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WGCnC0GGMfo.html
My only issue is I’ve seen pdr guys say that a dent like that takes 12 hours. I had 4 hours in working time in my repair. Minus dry time of course. For the amount of work I have to do a week PDR is just to slow in my case. But I do see where if I did have the time it would be good. But I will definitely look into the tabs for pulling the dents out some. Thank you.
@@Basicbodyrepairguy Many jobs can be finished in parking lots while the customer is shopping in the store.. I guarantee that the dent you were working on is no 12 hour job, just saying.. It's all about the level of experience.. The fender you have is easy to work with and the costs involved to repair it is minimal.. Compared the costs taken into account as far as your overhead on that job- You have electric, body filler, body filler paper board, masking tape, sandpaper, air compressor, primer/thinner, paint/reducer, clear/ reducer/hardener, plastic car cover plus labor time.. Also the quality of work being done should be taken into factor..
@@ecarroll3723 just depends on person cause as of now I will be faster just repair and paint because I simply don’t have the time to learn PDR good enough to be better than my body repair. If that makes sense.
Must not have watched the whole video. Nothing wrong with how I repaired it because this is how all cars use to be fixed. So tell me you just aren’t skilled enough to fix it and move on. 👍🏼
Shame no more tradesman left with pride to do the job right very few remain not your fault just no training to do it right.Look at coldwarmotors@@Basicbodyrepairguy
@jonrice21 it’s because I repair things the “old school” way. But don’t worry I won’t be doing much more like that I finally bought a 400$ machine that spot weld and pulls the damage.
@@Basicbodyrepairguy well good on you for learning from even the rude comments left by some of these people. There are two types of people, those who think they know it all and those who are willing to adapt. Good luck with your business in the future and keep up the good work!
@@TaserTheSnake then you should have noticed that wasn’t spray paint but rubberized bedliner made specifically for that type of application. Not come and try to insult someone.
@@TaserTheSnake if you read comments I explained why. Idk what it is with people but you do realize it can be wiped off with solvent? Something you of all people should know. Lol
Yeah but the time that takes I would have been halfway through the repair. I only had 2 hours of working time in the WHOLE job from start to finish including painting. Only thing I didn’t record was dry time. But thanks for commenting!
I do this for a living and work in a production shop. I'm not going to talk shit about you drilling holes. Get a spot welder tho bro. Its way less work in the long run. Also wear a respirator. This stuff will give you cancer and nerve damage sooner than later.
It’s the old school way and how I was taught. And it all comes out just as good so idk if car lot work was a insult or what 😂👍🏼 find another shop that does 10 a week with one guy doing all the work even with the fancy tools lol
@@Basicbodyrepairguy That’s someone’s pride and joy. Now it’s going to be a rusty turd full of filler. Order a fender or get behind the damage and push it out. My goodness
@@bstevermer9293 nothing wrong with how I did it. Repairs have been done this way and still are for a very long time. Its called business. Time I had repairing this is cheaper then time I would have had to put a fender. Don’t get me wrong. If it’s a insurance job or a customer coming in for a repair I would have put a fender 100%. But when I’m doing 10 repairs a week minimum that are going right back to auction sometimes this is how it goes. The repair will last a long time either way.
No one understands how, they just see what they see and accept it. I don’t have clear coat or a spray gun, but I understand. The scratches formed with the grit paper are actively filled in, smoothed over and magnified, giving the headlight its factory sheen. Or you can just buy new headlights, that look cool.
You did amazing bro. I’m currently getting into doing my own bodywork/paint, in hopes that I can get good enough at it to start doing it as a side hustle. Keep up the good work my man 💪🏽💪🏽👍🏽
In terms of time. More is less. I handled majority of my low spots in one coat and just needed a few skim coats to finish. And whatever the tool is “made for” it seems to work the ways I use it. Bumper is also moving so much because it’s loose underneath. Thanks for commenting 👍🏼
You can cheese grade on anything lol it’s a tool to knock bondo down. What are you scared to scratch the bumper? It’s going to be fixed on the following coats of bondo anyway. And a “professional” shop would have took 3 days to repair not half a day. 👍🏼 I have a full repair video on page go check it out. Also another coming today.
Love that people think a new bumper cover is more practical lol if you’re getting it paint matched you’re paying at the minimum a few hundred dollars for the part and paint, then you still gotta take it apart and replace damaged sensors and all that 😂