Welcome to my little corner of RU-vid where I'll be sharing my various modelling exploits. This will be any thing from Partwork builds, to scale modelling, to model engineering, and anything else that takes my fancy.
I can confirm the waterline issue. Even worse was an incident where I had hand planes on a shelf under my workbench that were in Lee Valley plane “socks”. I had a container of Evaporust that unbeknownst to me had a leak in it. I came back a day or so later and find that the soles of my planes were etched quite deeply with the knit pattern of the sock where the Evaporust leaked onto it. I decided that I had discovered a DIY way of making a corrugated plane sole.
Yeah sorry to blowup your theories, but your flywheel is cracked. Had nothing to do with a liquid rust remover. The rust remover simply exposed the crack so it was visible.
The spokes go straight to the center. This pretty well guarantees that the casting will crack. As it cools from molten it shrinks, leading to internal stresses that cause cracking. A better design would actually allow the inner hub to twist very slightly inside the outer. This is clearly a poor design for a cast part.
I've never used Evapo-Rust and have no idea what the _chemical_ make up of it is but to make a mark as bad as that it has to be fairly nasty yet anyone I have watched restoring rusty parts has not used gloves when immersing their hands in the liquid. I am *not* doubting your claim, just curious as to how the flywheel was mutilated like that. I have some rusty bits that need cleaning up and understandably I don't want to suffer the same fate. I hope you can work the damage out of the restoration. *Thank you* for the heads-up about this and for the video. 👍
If this is truly the result of being half submerged, wouldn't the opposite side of the flywheel have the same etch pattern? I don't doubt your observation, But I would expect this damage in at least 2 places, not just all the way around one area.
Joe, you videos was very helpful also, hope things down in Austin are cooing off, we are going to get some nasty rain here in Orlando due to the Tropical storm coming in.....cheers, Paul
The interface line between the metal part, the evaporust, atmospheric moisture and oxygen creates a microscopic electrochemical circuit that etches a line along the interface. This is a well known phenomenon.
That's nasty. I knew you weren't supposed to leave stuff half out of the solution, but i thought it would just leave a stain, not etch a groove. Given the right belt, you could definitely sand it out. The 3M 36 grit belt i use for removing scale and draft angle from castings would sand the run right off the when. 👹
I wasn’t bothered about a stain, that would polish straight off. I didn’t want to go too aggressive with a sanding belt and risk flat spots on the flywheel. It won’t be too difficult to skim it.
Porosity was my first suspicion and I still believe that is exactly what it is. A poor casting and the Evapo-Rust exposed it. I would expect to see much deeper "etching" over a greater area if it was chemically caused. 180 degrees around the flywheel should have a mirror etching if it is the Evapo-Rust.
I saw a video the other day of someone making and testing a more afordable, as well as a reusable home-made variant that excells in everything evapo-rust does in almost every way. Maybe that would be of help here in the future?
@@modellingmark look into EDTA and citric acid mixed until ph neutral. That works a bit slower than evaporust but cleans up rust without touching the base metal. Also very cheap if bought in bulk.
@@modellingmark I unfortunatly am unable to find any comment by that name. I'm afraid it might have been deleted due to policy regarding links. Just in case that happened, the video is called "The Ultimate HOMEMADE Rust Remover (Better than EvapoRust)", posted by Beyond Ballistics
@@Mikemenn true, but in the small print, next to a photo of a part only part submerged, and everywhere else they say it won’t harm uncorroded metal. I’m not knocking the product, it works brilliantly, but they could have given this detail a bit of a highlight!
Explanation how it works and why it eats metal, bonus: "Better and cheaper than evapo-bucks": ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fVYZmeReKKY.html
😱😱 thanks for the heads up Mark didn't think it would do that . Bit of a blast from the past ,I used to be in touch with Kim " Man overboard Wingnut , " from the partworks forum . He sadly passed away two years Christmas.
What I've done to prevent etching on large parts is to wrap paper towels soaked in evaporust around the part above the liquid level. Leave them extending below the level of the liquid so it will wick evaporust up the paper towel while soaking the part.
Hi Mark, good to see you back creating videos again. I enjoyed this one and I’m keen to see the tool tested - I need a knurling tool so may design one along these lines. Cheers!
Thanks Stuart. The next video is in the can, so to speak, awaiting editing. I need to get quicker at editing! It seems to take forever! The arms are a bit more involved, but getting there.
Where do you get the little glass replacement capsules that cover the piston? Mine looks smaller but still I need to find one. Can someone tell me where to find them? Thanks
It’s steel on this one, but I have hot air engines that use a standard glass test tube. They have to be cut to length, but this is quite easily done with a diamond cutting blade on a Dremel. Wear gloves and safety glasses of course as they can shatter.
