I came back to modeling after 30 years or so. One day, a buddy of mine who I work with mentioned in passing that he likes to build models and invited me over to see his models. Well, that brought back fond memories of building planes, ships, and tanks as a kid. I taught high school history for 10 years and have always been interested in WWII; modeling is a way for me to keep educating myself about history. I turned to the RU-vid modeling community to get me started back in the hobby. I appreciate all the replies to my questions that I have posed to many of the modelers in the community.
Oh @Drew'sModels there's this video game you might like it's called Sky on fire:1940 it's about the battle of Britain and it has different types of short missions you can do, and also has like a Short Mission called Combat Above Dover is were you can choose your own plane and how swaudmates you want and the start altitude and the difficulty (0-100) but it usually puts you at 40 for a start but you can change it. It was a little video game suggestion for you.
Hello! Maybe on EBay. This is an old kit made in 1970. It was gifted to me from a friend. You can do much better by getting a Hasegawa kit. I am almost done building this and will have a video out soon. Take care! Drew
This is a great little kit. Great build Drew . The only thing I m o this kit lacks is a flight crew. I used the crew from the Airfix Helldiver to remedy this shot coming on my build. As for the tiny delicate pieces yes they are using a good quality spree cutter is a must along with a sharp # .11 blade
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Wednesday, 3 July, 2024) Drew, you give us a lustrously effective nocturnal camouflage scheme for the most widely known night patrol bomber of its time. Thank you. If one has completed assembly of a model aircraft with a tricycle landing gear, and you have the undercarriage extended (as we can see on your video is the case), yet it oddly persists upon being a tail sitter, I have a work-around suggestion; you can determine for yourself whether or not it would serve in your case: 1) position your replica upon a sturdy, hard, flat surface (e.g., a relatively thick sheet of polystyrene) large enough to encompass the entire model (or bigger) generally near to the centre. 2) Gently rotate your model’s fuselage forward (for an actual æroplane in flight, this would be the “pitch”; if an aviator means for the aircraft to climb, one essentially would have the plane “lean back”, to cause the nose to rise and the stern to drop in relation to the entire airframe, which is “positive pitch”; conversely, if the flyer wishes to have the aircraft descend [or to dive], one would have the plane “lean forward”, to cause the nose to drop and the stern to rise in relation to the entire airframe, which is “negative pitch”). As I had begun (above) to explain, you next rotate the model forward so that it seems to start its descent, till its nose wheel touches the sturdy, firm, smooth surface on the exact location where you want it, pressing firmly enough that it holds in place. 3) Where the very bottom point of your nose wheel’s rubber tire touches this flat, horizontal workspace, use a permanent ink marker to make a readily visible, brightly coloured spot. 4) Set your model aside, then place the sturdy, polystyrene sheet atop a wooden board round a ¼ inch or 1 cm thick (a moderately soft material, e.g., pine, balsa, plywood, Masonite, etc., will serve; if you know a carpenter or one skilled in various types of wood or lumber, show him/her my suggestion, to seek his/her greater hands-on expertise) of the same size, or larger. 5) Bond together both sheets, securing them with clamps at all four corners (or the equivalent) whilst the bonding agent cures. 6) Thoroughly sand the edges to eliminate any chance of splinters (wear eye protection, a mask against dust, work gloves, etc.). 7) Trim the edges, if you have the proper tools (including eye protection, masking, gloves, etc.), and the ability, so that both layers closely match in plan and form. You would do well to frame the entire perimeter with slender hardwood strips. The upper surface must be smaller than the thicker, lower one, for the stability of this supportive arrangement of your model. 8) Once the bond has cured (the container will provide that information), locate the coloured spot you marked to indicate where the nose wheel goes (you now can make moderate adjustments, if you wish; the mass of the plane must remain close to the centre of this base, however). 9) Make a length of steel rod 1 mm (0.04 inch) in diameter, and in length ¾ the diameter of your nose wheel plus 1 inch. 10) Invert your model upon thickly plush terrycloth towels, bubble-wrap, or similar absorbent padding for especially fragile breakables. 11) Ask another model-builder to hold the aircraft upon his/her lap covered in the shock absorbing padding. 12) Carefully, slowly (friction-precipitated heat can melt the plastic, reducing the sub-assembly’s structural integrity, and therefore its capacity to bear the weight of the æroplane’s lead-filled nose) drill into the base of the nose wheel a thin pilot hole to a depth sufficient to transect the axle at the precise centre of where it attaches the wheel hub. 13) Follow this effort with a drill bit slightly greater in diameter than its predecessor. 14) Follow this with a drill bit of the same diameter as the ad hoc steel rod (here, 1 mm [0.04 inch]). 15) Test the steel support rod for its fit in the hole entering the nose gear assembly. 16) Carefully set aside your model, making certain of its stability and safety whilst inverted. 17) Paint your base in whatever scheme suitable for your purpose. If it is on a Pacific atoll under the hot sun, you might include a few along one side; these would extend from 40 to 90 cm, though for the trade-winds would some lean over, or even seem sinuously to recline. Another worthy option you could add would be for you to incorporate onto the board several portions of “Marston Mat, more properly called pierced (or perforated) steel planking (PSP)” (source: Wikipedia, “Marston Mat”). Eduard (Czech Republic) and I think VLS: Verlinden, Letterman, & Stok (Missouri, USA) offer photo-etched metal sheets representing it; keep a close watch upon the scale of the latter, as one would need sets matching one’s kit. One company makes a square piece of black polystyrene round 20 cm on a side and perhaps 1 cm high with recesses resembling golf course cups rather than even perforations in a row; this to my judgement looks too pristine and even: the interlocking steel sections round 0.3 m × 10 m in actual size soon have bends and dents, rust and scrapes, cracks and creases, and worse, from extensive use: war-weary planes weighing several tonnes dropping upon them at well over 100 km/hr. Next 18) drill a hole the same diameter as the steel rod-the anchoring pin-in the board where you intend to secure the Catalina replica’s nose wheel. 19) Have the portion of the metal dowel stand about ¾ the diameter of the tyre above the board’s flat surface; the front wheel must cover the entire exposed part of the rod. 20) The remaining portion will penetrate down into the base for your model. Use a permanent marker to indicate upon the steel shaft the exact point where it meets your display board. 21) Remove the anchoring pin, and with a pair of pliers, grasp it firmly at the point you marked upon it. 22) Press the steel rod against a hard surface to bend it to a ninety-degree (90°) angle. 23) Reinsert from below the upper portion of the metal shaft. 24) To test the fit of all the components, bring your aircraft model to the anchoring pin, slipping the hole in the nose wheel down upon the metal dowel. 25) If the fit works well, remove the seaplane replica. 26) Apply some cyanoacrylate onto the steel rod, and 27) re-seat the nose wheel down upon the metal dowel. 28) Apply a small amount of accelerant, 29) Set aside to dry, and to cure. 30) display prominently, and take a bow as billions applaud your mastery in polystyrene, cyanoacrylate, acrylic paints, etc. Just for fun-I so wish I could! (that is a long story!)-continue with my list: 31) assemble Academy’s 1:72nd-scale kits of the earlier Consolidated PBY-2, -3, -4, and -5 Catalina USN Seaplane kits; 32) build the model-maker’s 1:72nd-scale kits of the Consolidated B-24 series Liberator USAAF Heavy Bomber kits; and their Consolidated PB4Y-1 Liberator USN/RAF Convoy Patrol Bomber (the U.S. Navy’s version of the B-24 Heavy Bomber); 33) convert Academy’s B-24D kit to a replica of Consolidated’s C-87 Liberator Express USAAF High-Altitude Cargo Transport; 34) build the model-maker’s 1:72nd-scale kits of the Boeing early B-17B, -C, -D, -and -E Flying Fortress USAAF Heavy Bomber, and their Boeing SB-17G Flying Fortress USAF Search & Rescue Aircraft (Korean War); 35) to complete the series, add a B-17F, an early B-17G with the chin turret and the stinger tail gun, and a late-war B-17G with the Cheyenne tail, in natural metal.
Grazie per il tutorial, ho comprato il modello ieri e vorrei montarlo prima possibile, guarderò con calma e attenzione gli altri 2 tutorials per cercare di fare un buon lavoro. Ancora un GRAZIE 😁😁😁👍👍👍
@@DrewsModelsas with most countries it depends where you are. Here in Wellington, it’s generally pretty mild, the winter temp rarely falls below 5 degrees C, further south it’s likely to be 1-3 degrees C. Of course it drops below freezing in the high country of both islands. Rain? Oh yes, it’s quite a wet place, and Wellington has a well-earned reputation for being very windy! Take care out there.
Thank you, Al! This is the first time I have ever built one of their kits. They don’t have many planes though. They mostly make 1/72 armor (which is right up your alley!) and small ships. Not sure if Andy’s HHQ ships over there. He has a lot of Flyhawk kits. andyshhq.com/collections/flyhawk
Turned out beautiful. I do have a question though . How do you keep the tape from pulling off the paint. I’ve had zero luck with Vallejo paint not being pulled up with the tape
Thank you! Use a good primer, either rattle can or Badger Stynlrez. Stynlrez is the best acrylic primer hands-down. It’s also bottled as Mig One Shot primer and UMP bottles it for their primer as well. I’ve never had an issue with Vallejo paint lifting when I use this primer! Never put water-based acrylic paint on bare plastic. Always use a primer. Take care! Drew
FYI, the piece you called the floor is the bomb bay roof. The other piece labeled more of the detailed cockpit is the nosewheel bay. Built it when it first came out. It was a step up from Airfix's previous kits.
I will be assembling this kit as my first ever scale model. It's a bit daunting and I've been putting it off for a while because I was scared of messing something up (also made sure to do a LOT of research before I start). This video has been quite helpful to me, not just as a walkthrough of the build process but also as motivation to actually get on with assembling it. Thanks so much for posting!
Thank you! Nice to know that you found it helpful. You can’t go wrong with Tamiya kits. The only thing at this scale are the tiny braces and grab handles. Just take your time. You will enjoy building the kit! One more thing…follow the instructions exactly when assembling the tracks.
Great video, Drew! Timely as well. I was just telling Jim (Shutterace) a couple of weeks ago that I think my next armor kit is going to be a 1/48 Tamiya. My son built a Sherman Firefly in this scale and they are really good kits (big surprise, eh!? LAL) As for the texture on most German armor they are made from rolled plate instead of cast. The exceptions would be the mantlet, some of the rear deck parts, and a few other small things. So in this scale any irregularities from the manufacturing process would be minimal at best, I would think. I look forward to seeing this one built. Take care, amigo!
Always loved the hustler..when I was a kid in Chicago, they would break the sound barrier causing lots of complaints...lol Excellent job! Very nicely done.
I was 3 or 4...just saw deltas in the air. I just got the Atlantis re do of the old Revell B58..I'll use your build as main color reference.. Again, you did a great job
Sure would have seen you affix the wings to the fuse...all those angles between the 2 were a nightmare for me to get together flush in order to glue them.
