This channel is about designing and making. The ideas shown here come from my own desire to make things that are interesting, beautiful and useful. Some of the videos on this channel make direct reference to design projects that teachers might be interested in as inspiration for their own classes. This comes from my own time in the classroom as a technology teacher, helping students to realise their design ideas.
It’s a little bit more since I made the video…inflation…but it’s still only about $150 incl. tax. I buy from an industrial supplies business in Newcastle. I’ve seen it for a similar price in Sydney.
@@ColinKlupiec okay, I’ve been ripped off here in Western Australia I found a place in Perth $100 cheaper, per 20L,$150, I’m glad I found your video and prompted me to look around, I tend to go through it quickly I’ve just ordered water washable resin to try but I think I will stay with IPA
I may just pick up a Makita sander and try this hack to hook up to my festool CT-15 instead of trying to get my Dewalt to work with it but I didn't get that extra festool adapter with my CT 15 dust extractor so need to look into this. You said yours came with your dust extractor? or was it a seperate adapter. you purchased?
Thanks for your question. The Festool bypass fitting actually came with the Rotex sander, not the extractor. I've since designed and made a 3D printed adapter with bypass holes to relieve the pressure on the extractor. It's made with flexible tough resin, which makes it look like a real part, and not 3D printed. I'll be making a video about that soon. Stay tuned, and thanks for watching.
I'm gonna try it out! It is one problem that I still haven't been able to tackle. For now I coat them with PU. Could also be interesting for you in order to give you the extra mm en tickness for an extra tight fit.
This is an awesome video thank you! I have been working with the siraya tech and I was wondering how the anycubic would perform. I am using my parts at around -10. At these temperatures the siraya tech is a lot more brittle. It's time to test the anycubic I guess. Ps. the formlabs durable does a better job at these temperatures!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I'm testing some Siraya Tech high temperature resin at the moment, and that's super brittle. I've had a lot of success with Anycubic Tough resins. Two others I recently tested with excellent results are Antinsky High Tough resin, and Ameralabs TGM-7.
@@ColinKlupiec I saw you have more videos indeed. I'm gonna watch them soon. The high temp is very brittle indeed and hard to print. It takes a couple of trial and errors to get it right.
Yes, you can. Some water washable resins specify that best results are achieved when washing under running water, and not a wash station. But you can always give it a try. Check the instructions on the resin.
@@UrbanTreats Cool. It's a bit of journey, but when it comes to 3D printing, there's nothing like nailing a good resin print. It's next level, I reckon.
This video helped so much for figuring out if this resin would be good for moving parts/high stress parts for prototyping, thank you very much. Ive been looking at resin tendencies to try and figure out what is good for what and I've been trying to find a "Durable" resin because I currently use a "tough" one for everything (anycubics abs like pro 2) and funny enough this "Tough Ultra" is more akin to what the internet describes as "durable." thank you so much.
I never considered using IPA for water washable. The most time intensive part is waiting for the water to dry, using IPA would eliminate that. Thanks for the tip
You’re welcome. I’ve had lots of interesting comments both for and against IPA from this video. My experience so far still has IPA giving better overall results. Especially for functional, or tough type resins.
Great video. I really appreciate you making this. I appreciate that you actually left the parts for a week before testing. So many resins are nice and flexible at first and then get progressively more brittle.
I mean,it certainly is impressive,but something to keep in mind for me for example is the cost I live in EU and when i take into account cost vs overall endurance, there's no way I'd switch to Ameralabs over Anycubic Tough, especially when anycubic has even bigger bulk discounts And as a tabletop gamer, the colour aspect is irrelevant to me, as i always print it myself,but that's more of a footnote However, i genuinely appreciate the work you put into this, over the course of more than a year
Thanks for your kind feedback. I agree, the expense is an issue. And I also still use Anycubic Tough for most of my projects due to availability and price. It's just that I'll be using Ameralabs a lot for this particular project.
Thanks for your comment! We completely understand that cost is a significant factor in decision-making. At AmeraLabs, we also don’t use TGM-7 for every print; we reserve it for miniatures that see a lot of action during gaming sessions. One of the key benefits is the durability, allowing you to enjoy painted miniatures without worrying about them breaking. In fact, we took a large painted miniature on a 3-hour flight in our checked luggage to Spiel Expo, and it arrived completely intact! We appreciate your perspective and hope you consider giving our resin a shot for your miniatures in the future!
Hi. Nice Video. How many seconds / minutes ... do you cure flexible resin in order to keep their properties? The more seconds curing the less flexibility keeps. Isnt it? I guess there must be an optimum timing for curing so you cure properly the piece and do not loss flexibility.
Hi, thanks for your feedback and your question. The part in this video is post-cured for 5min. There was some trial and error in deciding on that time, but it seems to provide a good balance of flexibility and rigidity. I think each item you make will have an ideal post-cure time. But I use 5-6min for all my designs and it seems to work.
@@ColinKlupiec Thanks for your answer. I would have thought 5 minutes were too much time for curing. Thought it would cause a loss of flexibility. Ill try 5 min aprox then. :)
I've had the same resin issues with my D2 but with monocure's range of resin. Anycubic brand works fine, but I need to crank up the exposure times when using other brands. odd.
So far it’s the only resin I’ve had issues with. Siraya Tech reckon they’ve got an improved version called Blu Lava Black. I’ll be testing that soon. BTW, the D2 is still my favourite printer. I’d rather pay more and have a DLP over LCD any day.
can it record while charging ? I may need to record video for a long time and the battery may drain . So i need to know if it can record video while charging
Most resin i buy i get specifically to mix. Brittle bad. I think your exposure time issue is due to the UV SLIGHTLY geling up the resin through light bleed. The transparent resin does allow the uv to penetrate into the vat outside where you want it to cure up on the model.
Thanks for your question. This part is now updated to the MK3 version and made with toughened UV resin. It's super strong. You can see me test the resin with the part in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-od7WnLbkL0k.html The part is available for purchase. Contact me on info@colinklupiec.com for more information if you're interested.
i tried water washable for the first time and i love it, any mess is easy to clean with just a wet cloth. btw, i left my prints in a jar full of water under the sun, i learned this from using normal uv resin (water prevents oxygen inhibition), then took them out and let them dry. fully cured, no discoloration...
Thanks for your sharing your experience. I like the idea of water washable resin, and still use it for doing quick prototypes. But I mainly had to switch to IPA because I really only use functional, or tough resins, that can handle some harsh treatment when in use. So far, functional, or toughened, or engineering type resins all require IPA. If a water washable version becomes available I'd be keen to test it.
Well the blu is biocompatible from my research. Good for wearable materials that are on your body consistently for longer than 3 days straight. Resin is toxic and leaks after cure which can cause skin irritation and/or chemical burns. If you’re making rings and bracelets id go with the blu. But if its durability maybe try something else. You need the right gas for the right car.
That’s interesting. Anycubic also makes a ‘Bio’ resin that is meant to be better for skin contact. I really wanted to like Blu because of the colour. But I’ve now discovered Ameralabs TGM-7 which is a total game changer.
I have a table on my website of most resins on the market with the mechanical properties. The AmeriLabs TGM-7 has impressing properties: Tensile strength of 38.4, 61.6% elongation at break which is very impressive. I wish I had more properties for this resin, like flexure and impact resistance (J/m). You should setup a testing jig. Nice video! Do you find this resin is better than the Anycubic Tough?
Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it. Sounds like you’ve collected some good data. Yes, I think this is better than Anycubic Tough, especially when you factor in the colour mixing capabilities. Anycubic is still good, and I still use it, but for this project I will use TGM-7 exclusively.
that is a very impressive resin, even when it breaks it doesnt fracture into many tiny pieces. just wondering how its rigidity compares to anycubic tough 1.0 and other tough resin you have used
Thanks for your question. It's less rigid than all the other tough resins I've used. You can check out my other videos for Tough 1.0 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PLtjuhRN6Wg.html, and Tough 2.0 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yWO5sV2Xhws.html, Antinsky High Tough ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BlgTNUTLC6M.html, and Ameralabs TGM-7 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-od7WnLbkL0k.html Hope that helps.
I looked at their website and this resin comes in red, yellow, blue, white, transparent, and gray (they also sell a black resin but it's under a different name). This is enough to be able to mix and get any color you want. I'm so happy right now it's ridiculous.
We're happy to see you happy! The black one is XVN-50, it has a bit different properties and is designed specifically for engineering purposes. You can even sand, drill and thread it!
Thanks for your question. Tough 2.0 is harder…more brittle. Ultra is more flexible. Both are good and resist impact, depending on your application. But for all out impact resistance, Ultra is better. Glad my videos have been helpful for you. 👍
@ColinKlupiec awesome thank you so much. I'm off to order some ultra and give it a test. I've been very happy with tough 2.0 but just want something a little more impact resistant. Even though like you said tough 2.0 has incredible impact resistance. For what I need ultra may be slightly more ideal. Thanks again 😁 and love your work!
I think water in a wash station is ok as long as you keep it reasonably fresh. Some resins, like eSun, will actually state that better results occur when prints are washed under running water.
You may find that the residue issue could be particular to the resin…hard to predict. I still occasionally use water washable resin for quick prototyping and sometimes just use IPA to wash it. Somehow the prints seem cleaner to me.
Fair point. Although, the parts were already a week or so old when I did the test. I just didn’t mention that. But, your point is quite valid. Perhaps I should take that last part and throw it under the hammer…it’s about three weeks old now. Stay tuned…
Good pickup. I didn’t do the ‘warmed’ test this time because the performance was already so good. I only did the ‘warmed’ test because I thought colder conditions were making other resins more brittle. But it’s worth testing the Antinsky resin when it’s warm…stay tuned.
@@ColinKlupiec Nothing super critical tho. I have been printing with tough ultra now, its ok but parts are qute soft when its hot outside. They feel more like a hard tpu than "plastic". Do you have any polish roots btw?
Thanks for your feedback. Really appreciate it. I’ve been planning to test Anycubic Rigid for a while now. It’s definitely on the list. I need to test some more Antinsky and Ameralabs resins first. Stay tuned.
Hi Jim. Thanks for asking. Happy to share. I've created a community post about it. ru-vid.comUgkxk53twEAnU1au5JwtB9Zb-VOEu-qRnhcj If you would like PDF copies of the drawings, email me on info@colinklupiec.com and I'll send them to you. 😀
@@ColinKlupiec I only tried the Solid Color Pigment brand, which is made for epoxy resin. It worked very well but it's only sold in tiny bottles. I've seen others successfully use Rit Dye on resin printed parts, with one advantage being that their bottles are quite large.
@@ColinKlupiec Anycubic have a resin colour kit. Pourable resin dyes are available and should work as well. I got a bunch of resin dyes but I need a white to test them with.
I really enjoy your videos! They’ve given me great ideas about different resins, especially since I focus on printing functional parts. I’m really new to resin printing, though, so I’m still learning a lot. Have you ever considered trying any of the Formlabs resins? There’s an ongoing discussion in their forums about using their resins with LCD printers, and it seems like it might be possible. I feel like Formlabs is a bit ahead in resin development. I recently watched a video featuring their Rigid 10K Resin, which is glass-reinforced, and I was really impressed. It would be awesome to hear your thoughts on it or even see you test some of their resins. Thanks again for your videos-it's hard to find content focused on functional parts on RU-vid, as most of it is about miniatures!
Hey, thanks for your comment and great feedback. I really appreciate it. I haven't tried Formlabs yet. But it's definitely on my radar. I'm currently testing some Ameralabs resin which so far is really impressing me. Antinsky also wants me to test their engineering resins, so it looks like more rocket tests are coming too. Plus I'll probably be testing heat resistant resins soon for electrical parts etc. Comments like yours encourage me to widen my testing methods. Stay tuned.
Hi Colin, I'm a Teacher and looking to purchase a class set of tenon saws. Is the Spear and Jackson Predator saw you use in this video any good? Thanks
Yes, I think it's a great saw. Widely available, not too expensive, a good strong spine and nice handle for ergonomics. And, you can have the blade sharpened. School students deserve to use excellent tools which are well maintained. These saws aren't the most expensive, but I also wouldn't buy anything less than these.
Not yet, but it's a good idea. I'll put it on my list of things to do. Anycubic is releasing a new printer, the M4 and M4 Ultra, which I think have xy resolution down to 17microns. That would be a very interesting comparison.
@@ColinKlupiec I've noticed a new machine in photon worshop too. btw, do you have any problems with parts shrinking over first 1-2 weeks after printing and curing? I am fighting with dimensions on my resin prints and its hard to predict everything.
@@Trancelebration Shrinking parts hasn’t been a problem with the ‘tough’ resins I’m working with. In the early days of my resin printing I did notice some prints shrinking with the standard, or non-toughened resins.
