when restoring an old engine, soak in degreaser for a day, clean with a nylon brush. then an “aluminum brightener” which is a mild acid to get rid of dark oxidation. the wire wheel takes off and smooths the factory aluminum casting texture which isn’t good. you want the engine to have a dull bright aluminum texture. only sand and polish surfaces that came with a smooth polished finish such as engine head fins.
STill, the old bearings are like scratchineg fingernails on a chalkboard. If it is only for display, why bother did-assembling and cleaning at all? The wire wheel is also quite brutal when 'restoring' anything. It wears down the sharpness of the casting.
Pero soy de cuba.y aca.tengo muchas limitaciones.no hay tiendaa.para diferentes.kit.de modelos.y solo me pagan en monedad nacional.y no tengo amigos ni familia.afuera.q si tienen las pisivilidades.para.ver como puedo tenel mi primel modelo por control remoto..de hecho soy modelista.y tengo helicortero.eolico.pero lo manejo con hilos o pita cuando hay aire.de mas de25.km.por segundos.si no no vuela.y esto. .esto me tiene muy mal
I overhauled many nitro engines in my R/C hobby years.I would have tried to get new bearings and gaskets and overhaul the carb as well.straighten the needle valve arm and even install a new glow plug even if I wasn't going to run it anymore.It just makes the engine look that much better.
Just found a box in my basement after a divorce . Same truck . All the goodies . It's been 17 years since I had her out . used to run her at Daytona beach ! Your video brings back many awesome memories ! Super excited to get her going again ! Let the fun begin !
Armstrong mix is a high explosive. Do not use this for a propellent in a gun. It is only suitable for fireworks, detonators, primers/caps and explosive devices. Using Armstrong mix as a propellent will blow up your firearm
Armstrong mixture is a very dangerous explosive but it is not high explosive. Low explosives are explosives triggered by fire and can cause a chain reaction. A high explosive is something you can only detonate with a timer or electric detonator. Even if you put fire in a high explosive it will not explode, it will just burn.
@@Marcuschozen wrong, that's not what the difference is. Low explosive deflagrates. High explosive detonates. Armstrong mixture detonates. Had nothing to do with ignition method
Armstrong's just on the cusp between high and low.... if prepared with pure ingredients in highly fine powder form, it's a high explosive that detonates.
Hallo, offiziell werden Sie keinen Händler mehr finden der dafür noch Ersatzteile hat. Hier müssen Sie mit Glück im Internet fündig werden und es kommt auch darauf an, welche Teile Sie benötigen! Kunststoffteile, wie z. B Querlenker oder Achsschenkel sind extrem selten!
Your methods are caveman! How bout using an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner, with ultrasonic cleaning solution, or just plain dish soap n water. Or a crock pot, with antifreeze coolant, cook it for 2hrs, the engine will loosen up, brush it using a toothbrush. That wire brush takes some metal off the casting.
Just something about rebuilding a small motor I mean when I first got into RC Nitro gas Motors I got a kick out of the small-block and big-block my second rebuild I did for a friend he got kicked off the track we're having two suit of a motor yeah I turned a small block into a big block all I did was brush de motor there's one way to brush a motor and then there's an improper way I did it the right way but I actually out did the mechanic on the track he was upset so he said it was improper brushing it's really true what they say if you can do it right it will produce the horsepower they say I added 20 horse my friend got suspended from the track for running a true brush motor he smoked all the other RCS on the track
Ok people, This is for the common guy that WANTS to use that engine. A bad front bearing will cause lower cylinder compression loss. This makes the engine IMPOSSIBLE to tune. Actually, if you are going through this much of an effort to fix an engine, you REPLACE those bearings. Someday, someone will want to actually USE that engine. Placing something in a glass case is about as useless as it gets. Those engines were ment to use. Would you restore an old car just to SIT behind a glass wall? Eventually that vehicle WILL be run again. As a general rule, restoring something means making it back to New or usable condition.
Bet you don't try this one again, I could have told you while you were loading it that you were using way too much you also pointed it at yourself twice and you just need to be one of those people who doesn't have guns
I just bought an original 1995 never ran with a 1995 never used 4200mah 7.2v battery, 4amp charger, Futaba 2PL controller, and an extra 540 race motor. I got all the original boxes for everything with all manuals and instructions. All of the original oils, glue and tools etc. The Futaba transmitter still has the plastic on the screen. $80 🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯 the box looks like it was made yesterday. I couldn't get over to pick it up fast enough, I was so stoked!
I used some cleaner years ago that came in a box of used RC stuff, I think it was called engine brite or something like that. It was not caustic and it made dull, dirty motors look like factory new. It even removed the baked on varnish from the head and muffler. I think would use Dremel polishing brushes before I approached a bench grinder. Fantastik spray cleaner works pretty good and really does a good job on fuel splattered Monokote. I prefer it to 409.
