Can u get ahold of me sir. I have a 2 pin ho alt that is 350amp. I'm tring to up my charging from 14v to at least 15+. There's only 2 wires. Red or black. I've alrdy got my diodes wired together but I need to know which wire to tie into. I skinned them both slightly to test them n they both test around 8 on multimeter. Am I doin this correctly??
To the young books just getting started I have a small system maybe 2000 watts total power so I tried it with my stock 150 amp alt it does not work on stock alternators have to have aftermarket Don't ask me why
@@sub-humansounds5645 ok. I ride a lot and I ride a lot through the southwest where my phone rarely has signal at times so I was wondering if it would loose signal. More in account of me needing the odometer more than the Speedo. Thanks. The speedo looks great on your bike. Looks like a snug fit.
I bought a Onyx 12 off my buddy blown. 80+ pound motor, its a monster. I planned on doing a beefy single 12" build so, I bought a recone off Resilient Sounds and it came in 2 days but it arrived with a crooked coil 😡. It was built wrong. I'm waiting to see what they do. What they sent me was worthless, its over ¼" off. Coil rubs bad. I'm just glad I dry fit the recone 1st. Anyone have experience with RS customer service? I bought this sub on a whim, I never knew anyone that ran them. I hope they are decent about it and send me a replacement, its a $175 recone and it's useless.
Theres many ways one easy way if u get another battery series it to increase voltage ⚡ other take out the alternator voltage ⚡ regulator n rectifier n use a rheostat potential meter adjustable to increase n decrease digital is better to see how much before engine stalls energy
Hey man I just want to say thank you for your videos. They are super informative and I’ve helped me out a bunch. Now my current situation is I have three subs in the back of my truck and when I have them wired up and running my power steering goes out and I start running and low-voltage with my truck which is a 2014 ram 1500. If you know anything about that truck it’s entirely electric. Which is both good and bad I digress, my question to you is if my alternator is going bad on me is there a way I can fix it or I believe one one of your videos you doubled it up to a high output
Now what do you do with the cars that are computer controlled and drop to 13.6 unless the computer adjusts because it sees that it needs the voltage? I have a 2012 Subaru Outback H4 I seen an article saying something about grounding out a particular wire in the computer harness???? Any input would be appreciated. I have a 360 amp autotech alt
🔴 I have two of these #OneWireAlternators. One is factory #acdelco 160amp the other is a identically made #powermaster 250amp. Both are grounded to the engine right now via a #dualmountingbracket but each one power wire goes to it's own battery. Basically two charging systems. My question is can I run both #OneWire alternators in parallel by just jumping the one wire over to the other alternator and then splice the factory sense wire and jump it over as well so that the Pcm only sees Basically one high powered alternator❓️Any info would be greatly appreciated. Btw, I left out that right now I'm controling the voltage output on the 250amp with a #PulseWaveModulator that operates at 128hz just like the factory one. I can turn it as low as 11.0 up to 15.4 volts output, but I don't have anything that let's me know that it's completely charged so I can turn it down. The factory alternator does this on it's on via the PCM and I'd like it all to work like that to relieve the guess work.
I do t do anything with the externally regulated alternators normally. You should be able to buy an adjustable external regulator and have it control both alternators. I think brand x makes on to control multiple alternators at one time
You need to control the flow from bag to bag. If you use 1 fill valve for all, when you are driving you will get body roll. As you take a curve the force on the airbags will not be even from the inside of the curve to the outside, this will result in the vehicle dramatically leaning. I will post a video later today to better explain it, I know I’m not the best at typing this kind of thing out. You could use less valves but it requires check valves to limit the flow from bag to bag
Buy diodes and resistors. Very important. My js alt on my 05 f250 wouldn’t go past 14.9 no matter how many diodes I added(I went from 14.7 to 14.9) until I added resistors on the “other” wire opposite of the sense wire.
Appreciate the video. Just bought a 97 Heritage Softail with 16k and she's a beauty. Definitely want to keep it as well maintained as her previous owner. Shines like a new dime and runs like a raped ape. Looking forward to putting some serious miles on her, but first I'll be changing all the fluids just to be safe and not sorry...
As a mechanic, all i can say is that there is so much WRONG with doing this and the part failures/severe issues this can/will cause is astounding!! Let me list a couple of potential issues and pose some relevant questions to you: If overcharging via voltage to an AGM or lead acid battery, how do you plan on dealing with the excess gas being vented? Thay gas is explosive, btw. Since this will only work on certain GM/Ford systems, what are you going to tell a Chrysler product owner that tries this and INSTANTLY fries his/her PCM, other ECMs, and potentially quite a bit of the under dash electrical system? European, Asian, and Chrysler products have the voltage regulation circuit built into the Engine PCM. How are you going to deal with the excessive heat, resistance, and internal stator wear of the alternator? An alternator can only produce amperage equal to it's build even if you increase the voltage output. Since voltage x amps = wattage and wattage can be equated to heat, how are you going to deal with the excess heat? If you equate DC electricity to water, I'll use this analogy to make a point: Voltage = water pressure, amperage = water flow volume. Most automobile electronics are made to operate under a set, but small, spectrum of voltage...that being 11.5v to 14.5v in the real world. Since you are increasing the voltage/pressure applied to those electronics, but not the amperage(electronics only "draw or consume" the amperage needed to function), you are now increasing the electrical pressure thus lowering the longevity of said electronics. Think of an electrical part as a stone and voltage as a water pressure jet hitting that stone. At normal pressure, the stone will only erode at a known set rate. Now increase the water pressure, but not the flow amount, and you get something akin to a smaller water jet allowing more pressure to erode the stone faster, especially since this particular water jet will find the weakest part of the stone and concentrate on that point. Remember, in today's vehicles, the battery is used to start the vehicle and then allow itself to be recharged by the alternator; when the engine is running, vehicles now are designed for the alternator to power almost all the electronics while also recharging the battery who's job while running is only to be recharged and supply any needed amperage the alternator can't provide due to momentary excess draw. So much more I could go into, but I'm not. I'll just ask this: What's the point for a few extra tenths of a volt that can/will can major issues while providing no extra amperage, amperage being the " fuel" for electronics? There is no good reason to do this and will only work on a handful of vehicles while causing thousands of dollars of damage to other vehicles. Just add another battery making sure the second battery has the same CCA rating as the primary and is of the same type(Lead acid, AGM, Lithium, and so on) or use a cheaper battery isolator(old Ford or lawnmover starter solenoid work) to run any size and type secondary battery. Just don't do this. This cheap "mod" can and will cost you ALOT more money in the long run. Look into a "Big 3" electrical upgrade and possibly adding a secondary battery.
The .5-.7v increase is for the guys running lithium packs. Those require a slightly higher voltage to maintain a charge than AGM or conventional 12v lead acid batteries. The video does not show how to alter any pcm controlled alternators but I appreciate the detailed right up. You have some great points but adding more battery bank or a big 3 upgrade will not help with it’s the desired outcome from this “cheap mod”. I do agree that a big 3 and larger battery bank are the first place to start when building any high demand electrical system and followed with a strong charging system. outside of a competition audio system I would not consider messing with the voltage set point.
@sub-humansounds5645 Now that I know this is for a lithium bank, it makes more sense as to why you'd want a slight increase in voltage. There are DIY kits for voltage multiplication you can use to slightly increase the voltage to a lithium bank from the alternator if you use a battery isolator to separate the primary battery from the lithium bank. Doing so won't place any extra strain on the alternator, primary battery, or other vehicle electronics. Just an idea. I've been building systems and competing for more years than I've been a mechanic(started competing at 17yo, I'm 51yo now) so I understand the need to do certain things for a more steady and readily available power supply. Especially when on a limited budget. Also, if you have an alternator or starter shop or maybe even some electrical motor shops nearby, most such shops can rewind your alternator to increase amperage output quite a bit while only slightly increasing voltage if at all...and at a fraction of the cost of a high output alternator. Another something you might want to look into. I've had a local shop do this for me several times and have been more than satisfied with the results. Good luck!!
@@knowplay3258 I build my own alternators now. If you have a chance to look into them, I recommend checking out the hairpin stator design that denso makes. Those stators can be changed to produce some impressive amperage and work far more efficiently than the alternators from our time of competing. I’m close to 40 and remember having to struggle to keep enough amperage from the older slot wound stators to supply my systems. The hairpin designs are amazing with what would be like 2 alternators working in parallel in one case. I think Mitsubishi has released a newer design with even more promise now.
Electronics only draw what they need to operate. So my amp will max out the digital clamp meter at 1000A draw (when wired to .5 ohm),so my factory 70a alternator should be sufficient? 😂 Joking Mr Sub Human, not intended towards you.
@@sub-humansounds5645 Thank U for the reply. The stator for my model on there site appeared to be rewired, like U talked about in your video. They had the welded ones for American alternator styles. Does the company that U mentioned/use: Metro, have stators that are welded for the high ouput rewire?
Great video, I noticed this is on 5.7L Vortec model can this be applied on 2003 Burban 5.3L/ 5100 Vortec LS based engine with factory AD244 alt to increase the 14.7 voltage with no load and internal regulator would like to increase voltage for system and would be nice to have sat a controller/ knob to increase when needed and are there mods to increase amp output of OEM units or no and what about eBay hairpin units 300amp clams on a budget don’t have $500 plus dollars to drop on alt, I have two ENERSYS POWERSAFE SBS-190F BATTERY 12v 190AH
As long as it’s using the “4 pin” style harness this will help. This is mainly to help with the charging voltage for lithium cells though. Other battery types such as AGM are not designed to handle the excess voltage. With that said I ran mine at 15.3v unloaded for over a year with no problems on 600ah of AGM. This was 120 miles a day in my daily driver. I found this link online to help with the voltage range for AGM banks. Sorry for the late response I have been very inactive on RU-vid. support.rollsbattery.com/en/support/solutions/articles/4345-battery-charging-agm
Ever since i did this i get more light dim and what seems like slower charging/ more voltage drop. Do i need more bank? Im on a 320 amp alt and 40ah lto, using like 6100 watts
