AMDcore have explained that green dos not mean the battery is safe to handle. its just the chemical reaction but the battery could still have juice in it. though, I suggest to not cut the wire as you suggested and did but to test the battery after it comes out preferably with voltmeter so you can clean the leads from salts. submerging a blown battery in a salted water might cause it to float so the idea is the salt have to be touching both positive and negative to discharge. the inside of the lipo battery is enclosed and salt dos not get into it at all even if its submerged unless if its open/Brocken. after measuring its completely discharge then you can cut the wire if you need them one at the time just precaution. LIPO battery is like dead snake .. you do not know when it will hit you. do it outside in open space so you do not breath the poison gases or loose your home from its fire.
This will bring the charge down, but the saver way is to use a light. The green is copper from the wire, salt water reaction, and polarity interaction. Not the best way to discharge. If you have LiPO inside, keep them in a metal box and a cool dry location. Do not overcharge, do not over deplete the charge.
Not a solution. This is electrolysis, & salt water is a poor conductor. At best, this method will only corrode the leads enough to keep them from shorting. It should be put under load until discharged. And while the water isn't harmful, the battery still is & should be recycled.
I got a used scx10ii it came with two rear drive shafts and need a shorter one for the front. I think I’ll need to get another one or shorten the sleeve.
STOP recommending this method, it does NOTHING. The salty water is not conductive enough to discharge them. Better hook the battery to a small DC motor or a light bulb to discharge it completely.
People! Don't trust this method. I just took this guy's advice and discharged a 3S, 5Ah battery over 28 hours. The battery was about 5 years old and had been kept charged (see below), and was pretty puffed up. The water was full of a green-blue sludge and all reaction had stopped, so it seemed that the battery should be completely discharged. I took it out of the water and examined it. The copper of the wired had been eaten down well inside the insulation, which was full of blue sludge. I poked the probes of my multimeter down inside of the insulation so they were making contact with the copper, and - lo and behold - 12.4V! In other words, while some energy may have been used from the battery, it was by no means discharged. In actual fact, I prepared three batteries for discharging, and none of them had been discharged. THIS METHOD DOES NOT WORK AND SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM PUBLIC VIEWING. My batteries had been kept fully charged because, as I have just discovered, my IMAX B6AC (quite possibly a fake unit) does not work for discharging LiPos, either for total discharge or for discharging them down to a "storage" voltage. The charger appears to take the command, and 45 minutes later, it rings an alarm and says it has finished - but when the battery voltage is measured, it is still at full charge. Nothing has happened. I didn't realise this till yesterday.
As said below , Battery still uncontaminated , just discharged thru the salt water making clorine water mix just like science lab ,yumm.... ,don,t drink!!! large power resistor with high enough value to limit current less messy .
I have a lipo battery like that . Not as swollen as yours but you can feel a slight swell when held in hand. My question is how do I know if it's still good to keep using . I bought it new about 4 years ago and used it a few times. Than I put it storage. Just decided to fly my drone today and noticed battery slight puffy. How do know if it's still safe to use ??
I disagree, to fix a puffy lipo you can poke it with a pin and it will deflate Just joking, but on a serious note I've had lipos 4+ years old still going strong... what made this one puff after only a year man
The ''green blue sludge'' here is the result of electrochemistry in action. Adding the salt provides Chlorine Cl- and Na+ ions to the water to carry the charge which increases the reaction rate by allowing a current to flow from the battery. It is ionic and elemental copper Cu2+ and Cu being formed due to the flow of electrons through the conductive salt solution (essentially shorting the battery and corroding the anode terminal). Basically electrolysis is occurring at the copper battery terminals + - where positive (anode) Cu wire oxidizes giving up 2 electrons 2e- to from Cu2+ . Another reaction taking place on anode is two Cl- ions oxidizing loosing 2e- and forms Cl2 gas. Cu2+ formed on anode dissolves into solution migrating and regains 2e- on the cathode to from Cu metallic copper. This causes it to be deposited onto the cathode. over time the anode will fully oxidize away and reform onto the cathode. Na+ gains e- from negative cathode terminal to then form NaOH from H+ and OH- ions naturally in the water. By all means though corrections are more than welcome if you chemistry better or have anything to add.
I started in 1974. Bur I rock nitro. The answer at 2:58 should be "I don't know. You'll have to drive it and let the vehicle tell ou what it needs." You eee the problem with this hobby is that people are quick yo put on they want...not what the vehicle needs. Regarding RPM products...they are the biggest frauds in the entire hobby,. They don't back their products, they prey on newbies...and they are shady AF. That's how that is and I'll throw it down Every part I've had except for one has made the vehicle WORSE. Notice they don't cater to the experience hobbyist? Instead just to newbies with Traxxas and stuff. BTW, why no nitro?
i don't think anything was extracted. what you did was an accelerated corrosion (that's the green stuff...same as can be found on unprotected automotive battery terminals), which shorted the battery and drained it to 0 volts. All toxic components are still inside.
