I was able to locate the fuel tank access door in the truck pull back the rug and its a grey metal door with 4 or 5 bolts once u take the cover off the sensor right there on the fuel tank hope this helps u this is on a cadillac dts 2006 thanks have a great blesssed day amen
I used the Ebay service to rebuild my motor and it worked great. Now I am having trouble. It opens about halfway, then I have to keep bumping the button to get it to open all the way. Don't know if the motor needs replacing again or it is something else, like the elastic bands they sell for $40. Any help would be appreciated. Actually, before I sent my motor in for repair, I called around to car electrical shops and they told me it cannot be rebuilt. Apparently, they do not know what they are talking about as the guy on eBay did it. lol
We have the same issue with our 2005 cts, and our dealership wants $1380 to drop the tank to get it done. While traveling across the country in May, the car wouldn't start after driving for hours after we filled up. I figured out how to gwt it to start using a fix for Vapor Lock. It worked, but we couldn't get a diagnosis at the time. Now we have the issue, but the quotes range from $900 to $1380.
Classic trashy Ford elecronics. Yeah I said it... cause when a faulty coil pack can burn up your PCM, you're not doing it right. Funny thing is my 2002 has'nt had these ECU, ECM, PCM, ABS, or any other electronics fry for basically no reasons whatsoever. And yes it has ABS, it also has 340,000 mi. with ice cold A/C and still runs like a champ. Ford electronics pretty much turned to garbage around 2007, along with the rest of the vehicles.
Dude the videos are great. Thank you. BUT, you don't have to do any of this to replace the ISM folks. You need to remove the drivers side exhaust all the way back. Actually just loose and kick it out of the clamps so you can move it around. Then, you just need to remove the ISM. To do this, Go to harbor freight and get there long duel twist head socket wrench. Has 3/8 goose neck on one end and 1/4 on the other. both have goose necks and its about 15 inches long. Next buy a super short T30 ratchet star ( 1/4 size, small is best). With that socket and wrench you can get the ISM bolts out as there is minimal clearance to do so. Which is why you need to get this ratchet ( its a thin head matched with a short socket torx) Gets it done with allowed clearance with tunnel wall. Then, you work it over the drive shaft and in between the drive shaft and the drivers side exhaust pipe. Its actually the cat section of the exhaust. It may take two people as I'm a pretty strong guy, to push the exhaust up and over enough to inch it out. It is a tight squeeze to do so but you can do it. I did it after I decided I was NOT doing this. And I restore and flip Mercedes only for a living. So clever thinking is a must . A pry bar makes this even easier . I wish I thought of that in the moment. Enjoy. The video did kick start a thought process though. Thank you kindly.
..hi all, has this worked for anyone in here?.. My top wont go up, it just makes a sound as if it going to, but it just doesn't .. I want my top working for the summer.. any help?.. thanks..
Every body is showing the same thing making people buy parts for no reason, I went out and bought the same switch and the truck is still does the same thing, on fact none of the buttons in the steering wheel are working, is there a fuse for those buttons
A few years back my Jeep overheated and I got a warped head which was expensive to fix since the head has to be removed and machined down to fit again. The radiator fluid looks like a chocolate milkshake. I had changed out almost every component in my cooling system (hoses, thermostat, temperature sensor, radiator and water pump but the engine would still overheat under stop n go traffic conditions. Always pay attention to the color of your radiator fluid and change it out at the prescribed intervals (every 2 yrs or every 24k miles) failure to do so could result in thousands of dollars worth of engine damage. Lesson Learned.... Also don't ever try to drive your car with an overheated engine....
He's right, and I add some more about how to take the cooler out easier here:. after you loose all screws, (the hoses at the back and the front only need to loose the top clamps), than your hands holding the cooler two corners, push the cooler back and up while slowly moving right and left, the front big hose will easily slide out, than pulling the cooler off from the small hose mostly the same technic. when you put the cooler back, push it all the way in the small hose first, than use a flat head screwdriver insert the side of the big hose an inch , move the screwdriver around help the cooler slide back in hose, very easy.
If oil got into the cooling system, even hot water will not get all of the oil film out of the system. You should get something like Calgonite automatic dish washing powder. It will dissolve the oil and soften the water so the oil can be completely removed. Then flush it several times with clear water and then drain all of the water out that you can before refilling with antifreeze. There will usually be some water left in the radiator (if not removed) and the engine block so (depending on the size of the engine) add a quart or two of straight antifreeze and then finish filling with a premix or premix your own. If you live further north the 50/50 mixed antifreeze containers may not be strong enough for the cold where you live.
You made it look easy. In my case, the two pieces stuck together and there is no way for me just to use my fingers to separate them. There is no room to even get my two hands in there. I guess you took out the subframe first to make all that room?
