Blum is an international company that specializes in the production of functional hardware for cabinets. The company’s main product groups are lift mechanisms, hinges and drawer systems for cabinets.
Blum produces an extremely high standard of quality, with well thought out function, recognized design and high durability.
We focus on the needs of people that use our products. Anyone that manufactures, sells, installs or uses our products should benefit from our services. We value our partnerships and actively listen to the needs of those who use our products. Our wide range of services for manufacturers, dealers and installers are a result of our partners' thoughts and experiences.
For those who are here because their drawers won't close (bounces right back out) after installing the linkage bar, or won't open after installing the linkage bar. After the Blum affiliated installers blamed my drawers and left, I did my own investigation. The reason this is occurring is due to how the linkage bar works. If you install the bar and push the runners in without the drawer itself, you will notice that the bar actually rotates downwards when the latches connect. This way it synchronises the rotation and latching on both sides. Which theoretically means there's a wider actuation surface for your drawers, since applying pressure disproportionately to one side would still trigger the rotation to unlatch the other side. The problem is that, the gears that the linkage bar socket uses to rotate can get dust and dirt trapped inside, causing it to not spin as freely. If one side doesn't rotate fully due to dust, it will cause the other side to not latch. Thus both runners unlatch and bounces out. Or if there's over rotation, it gets stuck and won't open. The solution is to get some bicycle spray grease, and spray it into the tiny white gears hidden right behind the linkage bar sockets. Manually rotate the bar a few times to spread the grease around. After that it should just work. Blum, learn to troubleshoot your own products.
@@rossmau Oh yeah you’re right! I thought that was part of the overall adjustment mechanism, and it missing meant it didn’t work on that side. Thanks!!
I am so happy I found this! My cabinet was driving me crazy because it wasn’t staying open. I was so close to change the hinges … but then I watched how to adjust them and the door stays up! Don’t need to hold it with one hand to put the glasses away 😂 Thank you so much!!
I have had this system for several years and one of the telescopic arms snapped due to the plastic portion breaking. Anyone have this happen or know why it happened? I thought it might be the tension on the lift system was too tight, so I loosened it, but then cabinets droop very low and are not very practical.
Hi my drawer unit is very noisy on closing, almost with a grating sound, what is the issue here. Brand new install yesterday but disappointed with the sound of the drawer unit. It's a BLum tandembox blumotion runner, any ideas UK based ????
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Hi Blum USA Is the Rear Mounting Bracket not marketed in Europe? I can't seem to find it anywhere. Actually ... I can't seem to find it mentioned anywhere in any official Blum material.
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My issue is reusing an existing hinge on a new door. The parts that expanded slightly to fit the original door, stay expanded and won’t fit into a new door.
Would be helpful to see the side view before and after the adjustment, to see what is actually changing. I've used this adjustment on my slides and haven't noticed much of a difference.
I agree they should show a before and after but it is incredibly simple. The adjustment is only changing the horizontal angle of the drawer from back to front. The top of the drawer front would have pinched closer to be sitting flush from top to bottom now. I fitted these exact runners recently on a job.
@@BlumInc but don’t understand how to you it. You mentioned a measurement for which side to use but didn’t show what that measurement was referring to. Again I didn’t understand how to use it. I have one drawer even though everything is the same does not have a gap so it doesn’t work. And several and it takes two hands to push to open even though I have sync rods in all of them.
@@BlumIncwhat is the exact difference between the regular ones and the ones for soft close Doors? Can I use the regular ones for soft close hinges as well?
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A homeowner here, purchased 4 F boxes for an entertainment center. Was surprised to find out that not a single screw is included with the hardware. Is that intended?
I have a question. In a video from your profile - 'Universal Individual Template', the holes for Tandembox rails are 40mm from the front of the cabinet (visible on the universal template). Here for Legrabox you state 37mm. Are both valid - Tandembox 40mm, Legrabox 37mm?
If the holes cannot hold the hinge in place, you have a few options - you can bore new holes, add wood filler or replace the door completely. Hope that helps!
@@BlumInc I ended up just taking them down and reseating them, and that seems to have helped a lot. I believe they were poorly seated in the first place. I did add some shim material on one where the clamps make contact, and that helped. Thank you very much for your reply.
If I replace a broken power supply with a new one, can I merge the old distribution cable on the right and the new distribution cable of the new power supply on the left in the connection node? Normally, one cable leads to one charger and the second is the distribution cable (I have 1 power supply for multiple charging)
Yes, the INSERTA cable connector can be used by them to just connect the new power supply to the existing distribution cable. The only key here is that there is only one power supply per system/circuit.
@@oGGi3mOnsTer not sure about the boring hole. What is this needs for? but realized my bigger problem is i I didn’t add locking devices. Didn’t realize I needed them. Have ordered them.
