Join me as I take you along in every day experiences I go through living in Florida and fixing problems that arise with the property as well as tutorials and DIY's. ru-vid.com
@klowe7695 you could keep your chime but you must then retain the original button at the front door. The chime runs off DC voltage and your doorbell cam needs AC.
Who's watching this in '24 for Milton? This setup will get a run for it's money. I'm unfortunately directly in the path of this storm, just south of Tampa Bay. Please keep me and my family in your thoughts.
@JackofAllTrades1 your the truth brother, I was honestly afraid to do it still thinking it was white paint but I took ur word and I did it. It worked awesome, just as you said. Only thing is I used 600 grit, next time I will try lower grit. So it's not white paint after all. Thanks man!!
@fallenone6 yea np. Def use something smooth... even a magic eraser works (wet sanding). You will eventually get through the white rubber and back into the black. I think somebody said once you can do this about 20 times ever before running out of white rubber.
I will try that next time. So the raised lettering will be shaved down b4 the white runs out? Do you have a preferred tire cleaner and shine dressing you recommend?
Great video. we have the same heater and keep getting Error Code E5. Check the stack sensor with the multi meter and it was fine. Then Control panel and it indicated it should be replaced. Called our pool installer (pool is only 3 years old) They came out and replaced the Control Panel. Seemed to work for a couple of days and then started receiving Error Code E5 again as the heater would shut shortly after starting. Any suggestions?
@RobertSpengler-n4l so the pool goes all the way through the startup sequence, fires up, and then turns off immediately? Do you feel any heat come out of the rear exhaust at all?
@sherryn39455 i was using kiddie play sand here. You will need to be in a well ventilated area and have a proper respirator on for that... otherwise, I'd recommend using Blast media such as ground up walnut husks.
I will try it and see what happens. All 3 run back to the master so it should work out ok. Thank you for your video and you quick reply. Do you have a regular email address???
@Unifiedavsolutions-tjb I don't see why not. Will depend on how much voltage drop you get and how much "overhead" you have left. Dont pigtail from one camera to the next. Let them have their own source.
Excellent video. My home has an old M&S N350 system. I’m trying to wire a Wyze wired doorbell to replace the existing M&S doorbell. However, there’s no schematic inside the main box. There is a sticker that says “Chime plug” pointing to a small plug on the board itself with 4 wires. There’s also a larger plug similar to the one you show that’s fixed to the wall that has the 6 ports but only 4 wires (2 yellow wires, one black and one green; the green appears to be a ground wire). I presume I need to use the larger plug like the one in your video but unsure which wires to use given that two are yellow. Any suggestions?
@koziolrj if you have a multimeter, you can probe several wires until you find the combination that gives you at least 16 volts AC. It's an inexpensive tool and has many uses.
I bought an altimeter (got it based on your red in the video). I will give that a try & check back if I have more questions. I figured the wire color didn’t matter too much but wasn’t sure if I was missing something.
@koziolrj yea. Once you hit the right combo and it stays consistent, you will know you have current. If the reading shows negative, then that just means your red probe is on the ground and your black probe is on the positive. I don't think polarity matters with these doorbells, but just in case, it's good to know.
What do you think if the fact that you have 5,000 watts that you are not accessing? Could’ve gotten by with a smaller generator say 15,000 peak 12,000 running. You wouldn’ve known the difference. You’re limited to the 12,000 W 50 amps
@@JackofAllTrades1 - the point is you don’t ever intend on doing that so running just the 50 amp makes it a overpowered generator. You could’ve got by with a 15,000/12,000 W which would’ve been much more fuel efficient and handle essentially everything you’re doing now. Defeats the whole purpose of having the inlet box.
@condor5635 Yes, cause buying a smaller generator and running it full tilt is fuel efficient. I can run the entire house as if everything is normal at half load with this thing.
@@JackofAllTrades1 this additionally has horrible THD apparently from other posts I’ve seen. Bottom line this generator is really not suited for home use as much as commercial use at a job site. I’ll stick with the tri fuel option when I get a new one. I can 8000 W running during an emergency just fine
So many people misunderstand what the product is for! Plain water boils at 212 degrees ferenheit. This product contains what science calls wet water. Any engine using plain water that gets to 212 or better is boiling just like a pot on the stove. Antifreeze/coolant raised the boiling point and lowers the freezing point. No motor built from 1960 on is designed to run without an antifreeze mixture. The cylinder wall in a motor gets hotter than a frying pan, try getting that pan hot the put water in it and see what happens what you see is what is happening inside the motor of your vehicle.
Thanks for the video. I have the exact same unit you used in the demonstration so this was really helpful. My question is around the doorbell out front. What do I do with the other two wires that were attached to the speaker that I removed? And also, does that mean I don’t need the Pro Power battery that came with the Ring doorbell because normally it is attached to the inside doorbell unit, which in this case I don’t have because of the intercom head unit that is used instead. Any help is appreciated. Thanks much!
@@BrendaKoskey you can tuck the other two wires back. Just arap them around the main wire... maybe place some electrical tape or wire nuts over the end. The pro power battery is not needed when you have an AC power supply. I use an Amazon echo as my ringer now for when the doorbell is pushed.
@sullivanvega5345 mine couldn't handle my sprinkler system. They are probably better suited for drier climates... I've been through two sets and would not recommend.
@JackofAllTrades1 I live in a drier climate (florida) and have gone through 4 sets. I never again would recommend anyone ,but the Atomi are good. I'm gonna try the govee (a bit expensive, but hopefully worth it) spotlight.
On mine I could hear something mechanical chugging along, but no gears. I moved the back one, but could not get them turning on their own. I'm going back to digital I think.
@TravelingGonad I'm using digital now. I have a video on here where I converted it over if you need help with the wiring. I kept this mechanical one just in case but so far the digital has been great.
Very useful as I have the same M&S mc602 unit. My question is, I’m considering adding a Google Nest 2nd gen wired doorbell and their installation mentions a nest chime connector. Any changes to the install step?
@@aureliosr7009 I believe the chime is wireless and works off Bluetooth. That's what the echo version does. Do you know? Mine just hooks into a regular outlet near the door.
Recently purchased a Reliance PB50 and it has 39.5mm(just under 1 9/16") clearance behind the inlet plug. I haven't wired it yet, but it seems like enough. Perhaps they redesigned it?🤷♀ Pruste and Rundik use the SS2-50P. The SS stands for "ship to shore", which is only needed for salt spray environments. I don't know that it makes it any more robust on the side of your house. The AC WORKS looks like a bug nest.
@terry5008 I'm trying to visualize that size of gap in the reliance. If it's almost 2 inches behind the connector, it may be enough. For 30 amp installs, it should be plenty. It's a struggle with the thick guage wire required for 50, though.
HI I PUT IN A NEW TANK UNIT WHICH I CHECKED 1ST AND WAS OK. AFTER PUTTING IN GAS WHEN REINSTALLED THE GAUGE STILL SHOWS EMPTY AND THE UNIT IS PROBABLY NG BECAUSE THE CAR WON'T RUN BECAUSE THE FUEL PUMP ISN'T GETTING ANY FUEL FROM THE TANK.TOOK THE GAS HOSE OFF THE TANK AND PUT IT IN A JAR OF GAS AND THE CAR RUNS FINE. SOUND LIKE A DEFECTIVE UNIT?
I'm surprised your running straight water in there before this additive but I'm glad to see it helps a little, I've got a 2000 GM 3.8 and I'd like to get it running cooler in hotter Temps ( above 85°f ) I've put in cooler t Stat but it still gets to warm for my liking, don't kno how good this product would mix with dexcool, doesn't overheat I just would like to knock it down 5°f
@delcorick9967 I ran straight distilled water for a couple weeks for this test, knowing I would have an additive in it soon and that any negative effects would be minor. Thanks for watching.
@JackofAllTrades1 I did flush the radiator a few yrs ago and there was some tan slush on there and changed the lower intake gaskets at the same time but it didn't make a difference in my temp, my pil was just beginning to mix w it coolant but I did this just in time, motor has no issues, I'll probly consider having it professionally flushed one day
@delcorick9967 Honestly, there is no better coolant than pure water, but most people can't run it. I can afford to run almost completely water and this additive because I live in south Florida and there's no chance of freeze. You need something mixed in to fight of corrosion, though.
Have an older but similar system and this video was exactly what I was looking for to bypass the power to a new smart doorbell. Really appreciate the detailed explanation!
Just a thought for a wired chime. As I re-did some of the rooms in my house I removed the intercom in the upstairs hallway. Before i patched the hole I pulled the wire to the top of the wall and put a small hole to pull the intercom wire through. I did that so I could figure out how to put a future chime there. Your video now helped me figure out how to get power to the ring cam. Now what I will do is behind the unit, put one power wire to that intercom wire running upstairs to power the chime. A corresponding color of the intercom wire will be placed on the chime and that color down behind the unit will go on the transformer to complete the circuit. It should work and now have a powered chime
@JimSchu cool idea. Make sure if there is 120 volts of power in the wall thst there is access somehow. This is so it can be code compliant. If it's all low voltage wire then it's ok but if it's like mine, the low voltage transformer is getting 120 volts from a direct feed from a nearby outlet.
Very helpful vid for me because I restore doors and have been looking for ways to speed up the stripping process, especially for doors with intricate details.
@@Gmrtech2 the clatter is probably the time it takes for the hydraulic lifters to pump up with oil and take out the slack between them and the pushrods. If you have any oil pressure at all at idle then you are likely good. I think the standard is 10psi per 1k rpm though.
If you live in an area that you can free range animals on your property ducks are huge consumers of ticks much more than Guineas which have the reputation of being tick eaters
@@JackofAllTrades1 Guineas have to see the tick to eat them, ducks will blindly put their bills in grass and bushes and use them as vacuum cleaners. Runner ducks are the most effective they are a breed that walks upright almost like a penguin
Sir, I realize this a six months old, but if your still checking the comments I have question. I am trying to connect a 230v “power in” with a 230V and a 110V “load out” using this exact WiFi timer. So, my two-part question is; do I still wire it up in this manner for the 230v load and how would I connect a 110 load? I need the power to come on simultaneously for both loads using 230 as the source power. This is for a Scott’s Aerator that moves water in a lake off my dock. The pump is a 3/4hp water submergsable pump that runs off 230V and a separate oscillating motor that runs off 120V. Thank you in advance, and I hope this makes sense.
@mach9383 check the schematics on the inside cover of the box. I believe the middle right diagram has both 220 and 110 volt loads. I'm not near mine to confirm, but essentially, the 110-volt connection will only share one spot with the 220, and the second line of the 110 will be somewhere else.
I believe when the GFI breaker resets from the sprinkler it’s gonna work because I did what you said with the chopstick and the gear started moving so the gears are moving. I just have to wait to reset the GFI. I believe you saved me from buying a new one and it’s fixed. Thank you so much for making this video.
I don’t know about you guys but I have mine scheduled through the app. “Automation” Comes on 25 min after sunset , then after a few hours it dims to 20% and I have it turn off 30 min before sunrise. But for whatever reason they shut off at 1am and obviously do not have it set to that . Any recommendations? There is not one place that explains timers and automation . It’s all trial and error . And the thing is it used to work and shut off properly .
@Ziplocked67 it's either the switch that tells it to dispens ice or the valve that operates the water in the back of the fridge. If you disconnect the wire harness on the ice machine and it stops, then it's the ice machine. If it keeps going, then it's the valve.
I guess in addition to that, the switch that runs the lever where the cup goes could be bad. Just unplug the fridge. If the water stops, then it's not the valve but is either the ice machine or lever switch.
Thank you! I clicked on this video by mistake. I have an LG and the water won’t turn off. I thought it was the part on the front of the fridge. When you said if the water won’t stop when you unplug it, I realized I was about to buy the solenoid. Thanks for helping!
Won’t doing this, repeatedly over time, completely sand away the white rubber coating? I removed 21 year old BF Radial T/A tires from a 71 Charger that I recently bought. The white letters on these tires were still snow White after being 21 years of age! I replaced them with Milestar StreetSteel tires 3 years ago. After 3 years, less than 600 miles and being garage kept, the white letters are now an ugly brown. I’ve never put any tire dressing on the tires or the letters. All I had done to these tires were to remove the blue coating with isopropyl alcohol after installing them. I didn’t buy a new set of Radial TA’s because I read that people were having problems with the letters turning brown. These StreetSteel tires have done the same damn thing. Back in the latter half of the 80s and throughout the 90s I used to have Goodyear Eagle ST tires on my old muscle cars. Their white letters NEVER turned brown, ever..
@Komet163B bleach white tire cleaner actually works pretty good as well. From my understanding, the white is a layer of rubber, not paint, so it's as deep as the letter is raised.
@komet163B just get yourself a $10 bottle of Griot's Garage wheel/tire cleaner. Spray onto the letters and then lightly clean with soapy water and a microfiber. My BFG radials are looking brand new after 3 years.
@pumancat only 24 hours after it's been watered in. I wouldn't let them out on it until it's had a full day to dry. If it's rainy, that will prolong it. This is what the manufacturer recommends, so.... there's that.
For me it worked too well😅. Did a flush and thermostat replacement on my 2016 caravan R/T when temps were creeping a little over half and added this with the fresh coolant. A few days later and now it's throwing a P0128 code denoting a below normal coolant temp condition, which in newer vehicles can supposedly cause reduced power and emissions and cause exhaust to rust. So I will be draining the rad and adding some more fresh coolant to try to reduce the amount of hyper cool in the system and checking the new thermostat.
