This is a collection of videos on topics that I feel the average automotive enthusiast will find useful and interesting. I have fifty years of experience in the automotive service world which includes working in an independent repair shop, various technical positions with two auto manufacturers and teaching automotive technology in a community college. I just like cars and I hope you find something here that may benefit you.
It is an amazing place. Unfortunately, the founder, Rick Lorenzen passed away recently. The museum and foundation will continue for all of us to enjoy. Rick's legacy will live on. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you, Im like most and just dump fuel down the barrels, I will try and start my 67 Fastback Pony this weekend with this method,,, Havent started it 8 months :(
The syringe method has always worked well for me. I think it will work for you too. But you really have to drive and enjoy that car😁. Thanks for your comment.
My issue is the half inch drive slot is way too shallow, and the extension protrudes through contacting the filter and preventing the filter socket from going all the way up. They are not all like that, but I haven't found one yet for my size filter that is not.
That could be a problem. I just measured my cup wrench using the A/C Delco filter that was used in the video. I have .440" from the back of the cup to the filter can. My extension drive end is 430" in length. That gives me 010" clearance between the end of the extension and the filter can, so mine is fine, but I could see that with all the different cup wrenches and spin on filters that are out there, it could be a problem with some combinations. You said your 1/2" drive slot is way to shallow. Mine are all 3/8" drive and I wouldn't want to use 1/2" drive tools under the hood of any current vehicles. 1/2" stuff is just too big. Great comment. Thank you.
this really got me hooked on drag racing early years say the slingshot rails and early funny cars im really hooked now as a diabled future drag racer i liked the early fuel dragsters and the pioneer guys whoraced them thiswas my future in drag racing was drive a nostalgia fuel dragster and funny cars too as i liked the nostalgiadrags alot thiswas my reason i liked the nostalgia fuelers these was the slingshot rails and funny cars as i really am hooked on drag racings early years thiswas why i dig the early years of the sport thiswas really why im really hooked thiswas my drag racing bug bit me hard now and im stricken with the drag racig bug now as im really keenly hooked on drag racing i future will have a funny car in nostalgia funny cars as well a way cool slingshot rail in future too thiswas my goals in futre now
@@StuffAboutCars-jg5tx thanks mate i really do liked the video thiswas really good on ealy years of drag racing i really liked the drag racing mobs who are trying to preserve drag racing history thiswas my hope i can race a slingshot rail in futre in nostalgia top fuel in futre thiwas reallly why i dig the sports early years thiswas my fave sort of stuff in future as i really do like the sports earlier years thiswas really great to se the sport history was being told in future
People should stop buying these! There is no excuse for those companies manufacturing them with that much play in them! I bought one of the ones you show in your video ( one of the plastic ones) and there is so much slop in it that I doubled one of those rubber jar openers and lined the inside if the wrench with it, and even then the wrench was worthless because it would still slip when trying to remove a stubborn filter Years ago ( about 20 years ago) I bought on of these type wrenches made of heavy gauge steel, and it fit the filter precisely and therefore worked great! Today they are all junk!
Unfortunately, there are so many different sizes of fluted oil filters being used today, there are a huge number of cup wrenches that are very close in size. I just saw a set on Amazon that has 28 different sizes. It can be easy to get one that's close in size to your filter, but not quite right. Add to that slight production variations between filter manufacturers and cup wrench manufacturers and you have more chances for things to not fit quite the way you'd like them too. That's why I use a shop towel in the cup. Thanks for your comment.
@@StuffAboutCars-jg5tx I will have to try the shop towel trick, but I seriously doubt that that would have worked with the wrench I have and my filter, because the rubber jar opener I used, not only took up the play in the wrench, the same way that your shop towel trick does, but the rubber made for excellent grip as well, and yet the wrench still would turn on the filter, making the wrench worthless! Now if the filter is not on very tight, then it of course works like a charm, but the reason most people are buying this type of wrench for the first time, I am sure often is because in theory it seems like it would be better able to easily remove filters that have been over tightened, than other types of filter wrenches. Congratulations on a good video though, and a good tip for people who have bought these style wrenches!
@@evorider3689 The blue AC/Delco filter used in the video is a 74mm X 15 flute. I just tried a 76mm X 14 flute and it was sloppy, but felt good with a rag in the cup. I see they also make a 73mm and 74mm X 14 flute filter. When you get one or two millimeters apart, it can get hard to tell if you're using the correct wrench. I started using cup wrenches for clearance issues, not for grip. A band wrench has great grip, but they can be hard to use in a tight space. The three jaw type wrenches have great grip, but they can really crush the filter can. There's pros and cons to all of them. Thank you for your comment.
I've found that the plastic syringes that I've used are very resistant to gasoline, and I've used quite a few different ones. The plunger seal will show signs of swelling due to the gas exposure, but I wash it in water after use and I can use the same syringe for a few years before the plunger seal swells up enough that it's hard to use. Plastic cups on the other hand are made from all types of plastic. Some may be OK to use with gasoline, some may act like gasoline in a Styrofoam cup (which will melt before you get it off your workbench). If I'm going to put gasoline in something that I'll be using to fill the syringe, it's going to be glass or metal. A tin can works great too.
This video was specifically created to show that the tail light assembly can be installed without replacing the inside wiring. The majority of tail light assembly replacements don't require the inside wiring to be replaced. If you have a situation where the inside wiring does need replacement, there are other RU-vid videos that will show how that's done. It requires a lot of plastic trim removal. Thanks for your comment.
All carburetors have some type of bowl vent that can be used to add fuel to the float bowl. If I recall, a two barrel Rochester carburetor will have a bowl vent in the airhorn very close to the choke plate. It looks like a tube with an angle cut on the top of it although there may be some later versions that would have the vent cast into the airhorn rather than a tube. Good luck and I hope this helps.
Thank you so much! I restored a 1966 Mustang and she has not been started in three years. After replacing the coil I know I have spark. I put in a 500 CFM Edelbrock carb and never considered the float bowls were empty. (not a carb guy). I will try this today and write a follow up on the results.
Anyone who doesn't understand this.Don't have any business working on older cars.The ones I speak of will run down a decent battery and burn up the starter and cables.Trying to just crank them.
I registered the warranty when I bought the first kit in 2019. Just keep the receipt and if you have the car long enough for the lights to yellow again, I'm sure they'll take care of you. Thanks for your comment.
Different carburetor designs have different float bowl capacities. I use a 60cc syringe that I believe in most cases will provide enough fuel in the bowl to fill the accelerator pump reservoir and cover the circuits needed to easily start the engine. If you do overfill the bowl, you'll never see fuel come out the vent tube. Before the fuel can get that high, it will begin to discharge out of the main discharge nozzles that are in the throttle bores. This would cause the engine to flood with fuel and you don't want to do that. A 60cc syringe full of fuel and then a couple of strokes of the throttle to get some accelerator pump squirts into the intake manifold along with a choke that's operating correctly should get the engine started (as long as all of the other systems required to run the engine are working correctly). I hope this helps. Thanks for your comment.
Your shop must be a hanger. My 76 Monte Carlo sits 3-4 mo over winter. I set the choke with one pump. Engine cranks 7 to 10 seconds to refill carb and then it starts and fast idles without touching the accelerator.
i use a pop can cut in half and a small funnel.drip a few drops in the primaries .i run a Q jet so real small bowl, i don't think there is a need to prime the secondary bowl on the holley just my opinion.
I agree, I don't think there's really a need to add fuel to the secondary bowel on a Holley four barrel. I've just always done it that way. If there's a bowel vent, I'll fill it. Thanks for your comment.
I would like to add that whenever I plan to store an engine. I fog it and change the oil. I always have good intensions of getting back to it but that may years. Ha Ha!
Thank you, Sir. I have a number of engines that have been sitting for a long time. I had not thought of filling the bowls. I do however spray some oil in the cylinders and use a pressure pre-oiler before and after changing the oil and filter.
When I made this video I considered a "long time" to be the amount of time it takes for fuel to evaporate out of the carburetor which can be measured in months. When you get into years of non-use, there are definitely other things that should be done before starting an engine. Oil added to the cylinders, pre-oiling the lube system and turning the crankshaft by hand are all things to consider. Thanks for your comment.
I do the same thing except that I use a ketchup like bottle. I use the trick when installing a new/rebuilt carb. I use the trick when when a vehicle runs out of fuel. A huge problem with cranking and cranking and cranking an engine until it starts is that the battery gets damaged more and more with lengthy cranks. Another problem is the starter gets fried more and more with lengthy cranks. Finally, if the vehicle has a separate solenoid mounted on the fender or fire it can also be damaged by excess heat from cranking and cranking. Cables, cable ends, and battery terminals get excessively hot, and can even melt. Batteries are known to blow also; hopefully the person is sitting inside or away from a battery that blows. Batteries make such a mess.
I agree that long cranking times should be avoided for many reasons. Filling an empty carburetor with fuel before cranking minimizes cranking time. Thanks for your comment.
So my problem with a museum like this is the tape. You can't walk around the cars to look at them or see the interior. This is unacceptable. I would waive off. Next.
How sad for you. I’ve literally spent hundreds of hours at this museum because I painted the murals there alongside the great Kenny Youngblood. I’ve seen grown men cry because of the emotional connection they experienced. Trust me, you can see the interiors very well. There are a lot of families that go through here and that means children. You can’t have them just putting their hands on these beautiful vehicles. You’re really missing out.
Yes, that can happen over many years of non-use with mechanical engine driven fuel pumps. When I made the video and said "when a carbureted car sits for a long time" I was thinking of the amount of time it takes for the fuel to evaporate out of the float bowel. That can be a month or two. When you get into years of non-use, that becomes storage. There are a lot of things you have to consider when you start up a car that's been in storage verses just long enough to evaporate the fuel from the carburetor. You've experienced one of the many things that can happen after that long a time of non-use. Thanks for your comment.
Spin the motor over by hand as not to break anything seized. Some WD 40 on the linkage so it moves freely ….Disconnect the coil wire on the distributor…. Then crank with battery ….. so car will not start. Cup full of gas. Little bit. Then start ……. Been storing cars since the 1980s. Never had a problem
Horrible information did me absolutely no good, watched over and over and finally I realized my bicycle doesn’t even have a carb or motor. Remember to pay attention fellas
I daily my 84 Grand Wagoneer. Best upgrade is an in line electric fuel pump tied to a switch on the dashboard. Easy fuel prime when it's sat for a while and it keeps the line away from the block which keeps the fuel cooler. 👍
An inline electric fuel pump can be an easy way to prime an empty carburetor as long as you don't mind cutting into the fuel line and adding an electrical circuit. Thanks for your comment.
This is an excellent idea! I've always just dumped like 2 ounces of 2 stroke oil inside the barrels. Don't stop cranking it when it starts just keep the starter cranking and pump the gas peddle until you notice the engine is revving up and down when you press the accelerator! Also if it's been sitting for a long time, pull the spark plugs and put like 2 ounces of oil in each cylinder so they aren't dry when it starts! Great video! We will be the only cars on the road when an emp bomb goes off. Love my 3 jeep wagons, old garden tractors lawn mowers! All carbs! Make sure we all teach our boys how to overhaul and maintain these machines!
It's unusual to find a person under 40 that knows anything about a carburetor. If you have a lawn mower, weed eater, chain saw, generator, or anything powered by a small IC engine and you want to maintain it yourself, you need to know a little bit about a carburetor. Pass that knowledge on if you can. Thanks for your comment.
Yes, and the car care people will tell you that it is a wise policy to start a vehicle that is sitting quite a bit in order to keep the fuel system happy. And of course there is also recommendations on how to store a vehicle and the engine if it is to be stored for an extended amount of time.
Yes sir they are meant to be driven, After all that is what people bought cars for, to be driven for work, for business, for pleasure. I drive my vehicles as well.@@StuffAboutCars-jg5tx
due to circumstances unrelated, I added an aux electric pump on the tank and plumbed into the carb ("Y" with the mechanical), using one way check valves. With a double throw, single pole, center off switch (made in USA), I can prime my carb in 10 seconds and press the accelerator a couple time. Starts up. No need to get out to the car. This video example is good for otherwise. Also, I use a shower cap-like stretch plastic bag over the 14" air filter to slow down evaporation when I know it's going to be a week before I start it. It keeps more gas in the carb, less in the garage air. :) BTW, if it has been months, you might consider disconnecting the coil and turning over to get the oil going, or, better, prime the oil pump while hand turning the crank a few times (battery disconnected). 'just saying.
Very good comments. I'm planning on doing a video on adding an auxiliary electric pump just for that purpose, but not on this car. I didn't want to cut the fuel line and add wires. I'll add one to my old C-10 truck though. And I like the shower cap idea. Thanks a lot.
