This is an insight of my interests hobbies and obsessions. Whether it be standing in the middle of a field in a thunderstorm, repairing a radio or out on my bike, it's all in here.
I don't know why you say not to stop, and "lose the heat"...the 1940's Detroit 2-Cycle Diesels, in the operators manual, they tell you to do exactly that, and allow the cylinder or two that are on compression to hold that warm air inside them...Then try again, if you watch cold starts of Detroits after that pause, they almost always kick off right away. - I realize with six cylinders and 4 strokes, you only have half as much heat to deal with...But I have found even modern (1960's) 4-stroke diesels to "heat soak" like that as well ... Like our Perkins 354 in our tractor.
Hi, there! I just bought one from Catawiki, but with batteries. It works in general, but the base doesn't turn, I have to do it manually. Any ideas what the problem might be or where to look for a solution?
Hola Simón! Están muy buenos los dos vídeos. Se nota que solucionaste bastante el tema de las rayas en el frente. Por encontrarme en la misma situación, es mi pregunta de como hiciste? Soy de Argentina. Me encanta ese amplificador y espero tenerlo algún día. Muchas gracias.
Hi There love your videos . I had one of these in for repair and the bias was 55 mv on one channel and 72 mv across the emitter resistors from switch on so adjusted them back to 22mv and now it runs nice and cool and cross over distortion seems ok.Just wondered what you set the Bias to on this one . Kind regards Robert .
This Amp needs a good preamp i own one since 20+ years ago it was part of a system rack like one owner mentioned here if your planning to hook up this or added as part of your system make sure you have a nice pream or a nice parametric EQ otherwise itss gona sound off , its a very reliable powerhouse but not a stellar sounding unit
A metal dental pick or a small darning needle should get that pin out. ECL86's are notoriously difficult to match; there's the triode sections in them that also have to match up with the power pentode section. I wouldn't trust them to match up just because they were located in adjacent sockets! They'll need to be properly transconductance tested first, then matched for bias current draw & triode section anode voltages in situ...Also, ECL86's have a fairly short lifespan: 500-1000hrs. MAXIMUM. They usually don't develop shorts or opens or anything of that sort. Rather, their emissions don't hold up & there's equal likelihood that the triode section loses its emissions as the Power Pentode section; go figure! So even after as little as 100-200hrs. of use, a perfectly matched pair will have its characteristics drift enough that they'll be anything but!🤪 Also, the ECL86 is VERY sensitive to being operated at anything unlike the EXACTLY 6.3V that the filaments are rated for. And being run from an unregulated AC winding from the power transformer, rest assured that you are NOT getting precisely 6.3V! EL84's & especially 6AQ5's DO NOT suffer from this voltage sensitivity & last many multiples of time as long...Seems your customer is no audiophile; those mean Mr. Mustard Mullards aren't exactly low dialectric absorption types such as polystyrene or polypropylene (never mind teflon). But replacing ANYTHING wired to those HORRID turret sockets will be a nightmare, as I found out when I tried working on these 🧩🧩 of 💩 in my G36 open-reel; the bottom disc on the socket assembly LOOKS like phenolic or bakelite, but it's not!!! Instead, it's made of some STUPID 🤪🤤🤤🤤very low melting point plastic, possibly polystyrene! If you do find that you have to replace that socket, why worry about it being an exact match? It's not like anybody is going to look inside the chassis & notice! And if you think that those old paper/polyester dielectric Mullard antiques sound good (enough), you aren't going to ever hear any difference whether you use a high-temperature ceramic jobbie or a boo-teak CMC-brand teflon one!🤨 Your biggest worry is simply to find the same KIND of socket, with the round turret under its arse. Because whilst you were admiring that "excellent" layout (that upon closer & more thoughtful inspection, turns out to be anything but🥵), you may have failed to consider how & where you could alternatively locate all those resistors & condensers located underneath the socket using a "regular" design 9-pin socket & off-the-shelf terminal strips and/or tag boards.😱😱😱 People get all caught up in brand names & have little or no actual experience with the products that they drone on about. Another gentleman here is suggesting changing the coupling condensers to Audio Joke copper or silver foil 💩; the thing that matters for the sound ISN'T the choice of metal foil, but the dielectric material! And here it's merely mylar, which is DuPont's trademark name for their polyester material. IOW, you pay all this extra money to replace a cheap polyester condenser for a badly made & ridiculously overpriced & absolutely no better sounding or performing ALSO polyester one!🙄🤦🚮 And speaking of overrated, poorly designed, & mediocre-sounding Hi-Fi brands besides Audio Note, let's add ReVox to that list, shall we? Other than the G36 open-reel, EVERYTHING else I've listened to, or worse, been forced to listen to, from ReVox is both shoddily engineered AND lousy sounding! Poor parts quality & MISERABLE mechanical engineering abound, as does indifferent at best & lousy as typical sound quality. Studer is much, much better mechanically than the ReVox stuff. As it should be, being their "Pro" division & costing TRULY OFFENSIVE sums of money. The valve equipment they made is MUCH better than the transistor pig-misery that followed to the bitter end/present day, so that means that "Peak ReVox" or "Peak Studer" is everything BEFORE 1965 or so...🦨🤓🤮 Other than all that, I thought that your video was well put together & altogether pleasant & informative to watch. IOW Simon, it's ReVox that sucks, but you certainly don't!🤗
Definitely better times, Britain was British, off school the odd time , sitting watching CC, it does bring tears to my eyes literally heard it on the radio, just told my eldest daughter, who simply didn't get it, am glad I do.
Thank you. I have repaierd a few mechanical clocks but i have a couple of barometers to look at. I have a modern barometer that i purchased new. I say new i mean about 25 years ago. Made by Wydop. It's reasonable accurate but doesn't quite read the very high pressure above 1025mb and also not quite the very lows bellow 980mb. It never has. I may take it apart and see if i can adjust that gain a liitle. It needs the bezel and glass cleaning anyway.
I have worked on over 300 pairs of binoculars. I clean, tune, and collimate them, to be the best that each pair can be. They are not all created equal. Precise collimation is an art. Some binoculars are defective or are such junk that they really aren't worth the time it takes to get them servicable. But there are some older brands that were magnificently built, and they are rugged. Such as steel turrets, prisms are clamped, screwed AND glued into position. The ocular lens rings are made of metal. The crane is all metal. So is the adjustment wheel. Casings are sealed. Screws are loxked into place with threadlock. And so on and so on. Built to withstand and built to last. That all seemed to begin to change in early 70's - 80's. Much in the way vehicles began to be made cheap. Its funny that Id be the first to say that Tasco made junk. However, Tasco had some that were superb. It was either hit or miss with their binoculars and it depended on which factory they had manufacture them and brand them as Tasco. I have a pair that are so sharp that they sort of hurt the eyes
That damned lead free solder - not good, for the heat required to melt the solder is much higher than for leaded solder, with a high risk of ruining components, especially germanium transistors. Time for people to go back to leaded solder PDQ.
Great inspiration! My vintage Pyle 10" sub had a slight rub as above. I figured which way the basket needed to move and let it have it with my trusty 20oz ball peen. Works perfectly now no rattle.
Is it normal to have that amount of white smoke in cold start? I'm new to working on a nt855 big cam and the first time timing one. And in cold start it blows white smoke till it gets 90F water temperature
Thank you for doing this. I've just got a pm5326 and struggling to prise off the knob caps. Not great for self-esteem. How do you do it without mangling them?
And that's for Greta? At least you are breathing plenty of exhaust in that room, so that's for you too. Cutting off your nose to spite your face. I love diesels, my current one has 225,000 miles on it, but if it was belching unburned fuel I'd fix it. By the way, you have an exhaust leak. Having said that, I love the way these crawl into life, until there's enough exhaust energy to spin up the turbocharger. Once the inlet pressure rises the whole thing bursts into life. Driving a turbo diesel is all about the turbo, until that is happy nothing much is happening.
Great collection you have there! I have a few. Have you ever had any where the Hand has actually gone into 'Stormy'? A very rare occurrence I find; indeed, I only ever had it happen once - about thirty years ago when we had a spell of recurring thunderstorms and rain repeatedly over a few days in 1992 I think - quite exciting! Quite atmospheric when there’s big and sudden activity in Barometers (no pun intended) as they generally move in very small increments for the most part. More interesting devices than most people give them credit for. I collect Watches and Clocks too, and a bit like those; it doesn’t always necessarily follow that the more you pay - the better the accuracy; I have one particular Barometer that’s extremely accurate - but wasn’t that expensive. Plus, I also have a £5.99p modern Chinese Mechanical Watch that is more accurate than my £4.000.00 Omega!! No word of a lie!
Fcken hell is all I can say! Fixed the death rattle from my old and beat up sony sub immediately! I had already bought another system and was just playing around with the old sub. This trick proved to be immensely helpful. Now I'll fit this sub in my beater car. Extremely grateful 🙏
That’s a very nice pulse generator, if noisy in operation because of the enthusiastic small fan in the back. Also the box sticks way back, so it can be tricky to find a place for it, but it works well and is incredibly versatile. I read that the HP team in Germany designed it and the other pulse generators from HP, and you can tell that they come from the same mind and hand. The density and elegance of the front panel control functions are rivaled only by the folding PC cards inside!
Every standby generator that I've worked on has had a block heater attached that maintains the coolant temperature at around 160 degrees F, so that the generator will immediately start and be able to come online at full load within 10 seconds.
If that battery isn't perfect it won't start. You might toast the starter motor for trying so long. It would be easy to install a coolant heater. With the coolant temp kept at around 150 deg F, it'll start right up. A warm diesel is a happy diesel.
Hi, I did a simulation of the 220 tone circuit, the tone controls as standard on the 220 (and 250) have a big bass and treble boost, perhaps suited to a full range single cone speaker. A suitable HiFi adjustment is to change: 1. Change C61(0.03u) to 150n and move it next to R58/C63. 2. R58 -> 68k, R50 -> 68k. 3. C63 -> 120p, C67 -> 470p 4. C69 -> 27n, C71 -> 33n, C65 -> remove 5. Add Rboost of 1M parallel to C69 That should give a reasonably flat < 1dB response with useful bass and treble, and a bit less loss. Perfection cannot be attained without another buffer stage, IMO, a defeat switch would be nice, a relay from the 'Noise filter' switch perhaps
I have one of these, so will be fettling it soon. I know it's 2 years old, but the service manual can be found Ok for these free online. When balancing on the side, a coaster or strip of ply supports the main transformer, makes it more stable. But space on there for the MPX I think, the 250 has that built in IIRC, or perhaps a DIY one can be added. Worth adding a soft start IMO, I actually had a small valve spark internally each time I switched it on (a few years ago now), so i added some zenner chains to tame the HV until the tubes warmed up, but some type of soft start would be nice for the HT.
