Welcome to Rebel Equipment! I feature things ive build, invent, and repair in my shop. As well as a few DIY projects and around the farm stuff.
The videos, images, documents, content, spoken/written, or anything relating to Rebel Equipment llc and Associate's is for entertainment purposes only. It is not to be recreated, copied, imitated, or performed by any individual or entity for ANY reason.
I've got the same but it's the FA and red. I bought it new and it has never broke down, stopped running, nothing. I've just done regular maintenance and that's it. Today I had to buy the first part for it, spark plug. I have never changed the spark plug in it, a 22 year old spark plug 😂😂😂 the guy at napa that special ordered it for me couldn't believe it I said the 01, 02 and 03 were the best years they've ever built. I did a review if you call it on our ATV channel about 5 years ago and it's got 25k views. A lot of people said they've owned a lot of ATVs but the Honda's you and I have are the best. My friend has one but her husband uses it so very little the tires still have nipples on them. It's got a snow plow and winch on the front and a bush hog that's never been used. She asked me this past Sunday if I was still interested in buying it I said yes I have cash and will give you an extra 500$ for it. They're moving so I think that's why she's asking. They won't need it where they're moving to. Nice ATV you got. Can't go wrong with a Honda, they are built to last. Mine is a BEAST with what I've put it through lol
How big was the actual opening? I'm considering putting up a gate that's 16ft to let something like this through for pasture grass is 16ft gat to small?
This was a 14-15 ft gate opening I went through. The opening would just depend on the equipment you would expect to work the field. A lot of windrowers will have a 12-18ft cutting width(depending on the header).
Ive noticed u guys putting 10w 40 in yours...honda dealer gives me 10w 30..yours do better on 40..is that why you do it?..doing another oil change on mine now so would appreciate a quick response if anyone knows
It is what the manual recommends for the model and year and meets the other requirement of the oil being non energy conserving. An oil that is energy conserving rated tends to cause the automatic clutches to slip after a while.
If its thin wall it might collapse depending on the suction height and size of tube. I still use thick wall poly line as suction line without issue on stationary pumps but on portable pumps the lack of flexibility can make it a bear to move around frequently as poly can be kinked when bent to far.
Originally i bought the sponge from Ace Hardware. www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/painting-tools-and-supplies/painting-accessories/1015542 I dont recall what brand the sponge was at the time but i linked the type i had used.
I was going to rebuild mine but three new spicer u joints cost almost as much as a whole new shaft so I just replaced the whole assembly at once and I didn’t have to deal with the ball crap.
Thank you. Thats also what i learned later on. It seemed the more i kept fresh turbulant air pushed down into the bottom of the bowl the hotter and better the burn became.
Depending on the vehicle the answer can be a no or a yes. When i was rebuilding the front driveshaft in this video i did keep driving it with the front driveshaft removed as i got parts together. In how this vehicle was setup it was not going to cause any issues.
This pertains to my 2001 2500. At 45:54 you talk about the U-Joint that has the little clamps ? At least mine does. I took the clamps off with a 5/16 wrench. It didn't have a U-Joint that had the snap ring on the inside (I didn't think it did, I'm going to look again) and the caps just came right off when I took it off the truck. I'm thinking someone might have put the wrong part number on it ? The parts guys didn't try to sell me the special one. Is there a difference with the 2001 ? Or should it have a special U-Joint also ? I was surprised the caps would come off when the inner clips were on ? Why have a clip if the caps will still come off. Maybe the don't and the video was a little out of order ?
When i looked up the u-joint that fit that year of ram it does appear to be a different u-joint. When you look at the yoke attached to the front differential you should see a protruding lip that is ment to hold the end caps in place when the u-straps/bolts are properly secured. What i didnt show in the video was me crawling under the vehicle and test fitting the u-joint on the front differential yoke to be certain my u-joint was correct. Unfortunately the mash of different parts fitment is a common issue with many chrysler products. Sometimes huge changes happen mid year further confusing parts fitment.
@@rebelequipment7262 Thanks. I did find a guy who shows taking apart the double cardon ball joint quickly. Its the channel Restoration Station. He's obviously done them before. NOne of the extra info you give us, he doesn't say a word ! Thanks for your video, I wish I had seen it before I bought my u-joints. (I would link you but youtube kills any post where I put links now) I can't even substitute the wording for the punctuation, it kills the link.
What i do is scan the plug for any marks i can use as a reference or take a permanent marker and mark the electrode position on the spark plug or socket with a dot or line. If the crush washer doesnt allow for a good index they do make spark plug indexing washers with differing thicknesses to help with getting the right orientation. Indexing the spark plug is not a have todo operation but the data does show it has a positive effect though small.
I'm about to take on this task. Thank you for this video and Information! It's hard to find specific info or specs on a 1996. It's that in between year of Transmission failure and lets try this! Again, Thank You
Not that im aware of but if you are just changing the fuel filters you can use the bleed screws on top of the filter housing for a more convenient air bleed.
Super heated steam was used during 1950's in Texas by US servicmen to run used fuel oil furnace on water line. Oil used to preheat fire pot and S.S. coil tubing + water to 1500 degrees. T fitting and extra valves mounted. When up to temperature, oil valve shut off. The resulting hydrogen and oxygen torch flame continues furnace running. 90 lbs pressure + 90lbs water lines with dual pumps and central motor with blower. U.S. patent application filed, but only resulted in final printing of 50% increase in efficiency with ordinary steam as only allowed to public. ( The change of high pressure to AMBIANT through tiny spray nozzel allowed for extreme vibration of vapor molecules that separated to gases,- at a much LOWER unusual high temperature. ) A much smaller demonstrator was built and shown to Senater in large wooden box with fire brick chamber and steel ring with holes- like coleman stove. Units have to be restarted on fuel oil.
Are use what’s the CO 1 ounce mix quarter ounce of brake cleaner and 3/4 of an ounce of transmission fluid that’s the ratio are use and I had a lot better luck with that than acetone because acetone didn’t stay suspended it may be something wrong with the acetone I had I don’t know because I’ve heard other people comment about using acetone also and you got a good point it will evaporate off anyhow you look pretty professional to me real professionals matter fact but yeah you’re right about saving a couple of those clips because you never know when you might need one and where I protection like you said this is Jim from Kennerdell a Pennsylvania
A lot of newer 4x4s no longer make use of locking hubs so the front differential is always engaged. The front drive shaft wont free spin in those designs.
That is shop made penetrating oil its a mix of atf and acetone seen in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5Xe3ao8NDuA.html The solvents/soap i use to clean parts are: acetone, mineral spirits, break cleaner, or Oil Eater degreaser.
Ya need a rotor sitting on top of your pot now .... or an old cast iron lifting weight a small one ..... just an idea.....also idk if u have an air compressor but what I've found that works good for cleaning the carbon is an air needle scaler and yes they build up that carbon not much u can do I sometimes after burning them pretty hit is shut the oil down and while ur pot is still cherry red hot ill open the door and blow compressed air in there w a blow gun w a 18" or so piece of brake line fitted on the end and at that point right there u can actually burn up a lot of tan carbon ic u have the time patience to go threw all that .... lol there's always a trade off when something that is that cheap is involved if it was maintenance free I suppose everyone would do it but you can generate a whole lot of heat for very little money but it is a messy process no matter how u do it , well it seems to me some ppl w tell u the set up burns clean and doesn't require any regular daily maintenance....but I can tell u I have yet to find that setup myself and I've tried many many different things, my thing is to keep it simple and easy to clean is the key, very good setup, and I've also found the smog pump to be the way to go , so far I've found nothing better ! So I'd say u e got a pretty good set up atm, thinner burn pots do burn cleaner put then ur replacing them more frequently, so like every thing else there's a trade off , and unless u can fund very high quality surgical type stainless that really doesn't hold up much better then anything else IMHO, anyways thanks for sharing always looking for a different and better idea !!!
Im assuming your asking about the part that turns and sprays water. That part is regular 2" pipe mounted to 2 pillow block bearings. The water connects to it through a packing housing that was built from scrap and packed with regular nylon rope. The packing housing is attached to some scrap radiator hose to allow it to flex and self align. The nozzles are street L 90 with end caps with a hole drilled to make them into nozzles. Its not fancy but works.
These are last seasons stock and have already been sold. I keep only basic epd info of only WW CW BW BD and a sperm test. I dont normally keep as thorough of epds on heifers and only sell heifers upon request. Reason for that with the heifers is how short of a term i keep them in a corral before returning them back in to the rest of the cows.
