The unique Finish 1st Automotive Finishing System offers a comprehensive line of quality abrasive products created specifically for the demands of automotive bodywork. From grinding and sanding to finishing and feathering, create the perfect surface for a beautiful paint job. Available in either dry or wet sanding, and in a variety of sizes and shapes, to meet any project need large or small.
The Finish 1st Automotive Finishing System includes four steps:
You can’t just leave the pimply bumpy slightly sanded metal there. If you don’t cut it out you have to at least pounded in with the ball peen hammer use that for the backing. Or cover that with POR15 or Chassis Saver rust ceramic type of paint first. Then add your body filler. Never put on a patch higher than the existing surface because it’ll look like a patch and only last a couple of months or until the first rainfall. You can even jam fiberglass window screen into a hole lower than the surface which is better than an over surface patch lol
Your car will rust again pretty soon if you follow this tutorial (maybe 3-4month). Here is what I do, and it’s good for another 3 year before rust show up again. 1. Remove the rust to BARE shiny metal 2. Apply phosphoric acid( rust converter) 3. Sand it again and do step 2 again 3. Coat it with zinc coat (or por15 after metal preparation, or rust proof epoxy primer) 4. Use fiberglass waterproof bondo to seal and fill the hole 5. Do rest of the paint job
The thought is good but…….you place the mesh on the back so you then can build it up to level. The sanding blocks are way to small and it will be almost impossible to get a nice and even finish.
Now that's a car guy nice job the college auto body teacher looks and sounds dumb I learned more about the sandpaper thank you professor a real professor not no college dumb teacher
When possible, but on a small section of roof you wouldn't be able to reasonably access the underside without extensive headliner, etc, removal. I find it helpful to slightly dent the area the patch is going over so that you can use filler to builds back up to the level area when placing behind is not an easy option.
I can all kinds of ways that this won’t work. That mesh on the outside. Will make a large uneven service. And also this assumes who ever is doing this can paint it probably. Blend it in. Prime base and clear. Wet sand it and make the blend fade in so you can’t see it. Or shoot the entire fender. Blend in the base and re clear entire fender. Either way. I’d say most will fail on this kit
1. Painting and blending is not hard at all, there are a lot of tutorials online and I succeeded even I knew nothing and have 0 experience in the bodywork. Just watch and learn plus a bit patient. 2. Never wet sand a body filler especially on rust area. Pores in body filler will suck the moisture in and speed up the rust process.
It would've been useful to hear why this product is different from or better than other options, or how to know when to use this product vs. others in the product line. E.g., is this one slightly flexible? Is it suitable for all bumpers and flexible plastic substrates? Also, what's the working time?
You’ll probably want bondo fiberglass resin. I know you’ve probably repaired it at this point. But this reply is for others who see this. Let me know if bondo is right.
With the first bodyfiller , what sand you use to stard sandding , i normaly use other brand ( i live in mexico) and is easy to sand with 100 or 120p ..
Because you are stripping all of the rusted areas out and also stripping all of the paint, primer and factory ecoats to bare metal. So why it might look like primer sometimes, it's really just bare metal.
A 73 yr old man ,was just killed -Feb. 27,2017, at the Museum of Transportation in Kirkwood,Missouri(St Louis),from airing up a Tire on a 1930s era, Truck,when it exploded. Sad.
All the rust and debris on the frame between the cross bracing still exists. I just did a Ford Ranger frame and had to remove all that to get in there properly. Otherwise it'll rot where the braces attach.
The sandblasting process is very aggressive. It gets into everything. It can and will warp 20 gauge or thinner metal that is flat. Curved surfaces have more rigidity. With heavy media it is creating some heat, but is also like thousands of tiny hammer blows so on thinner metal it stretches the metal causing it to warp. The sand gets into everything so parts like ball joints, tie rods, brakes, and related will probably be destroyed. We did not strip it to bare frame to make it easier to move.
