Custom and restoration shop , Specializing in Pro street ,pro touring ,race and Show cars with Emphasis on pro tips and teaching and just daily life in the shop
What do you use to replace the lead afterwards? All Metal? Fiberglass? Lead the seam again? I’ve seen someone weld a constant weld using patch to bridge the gap. What is your opinion?
This was very helpful. If you are replacing a quarter panel would align the door to the rocker panel/front cowl and then align the quarter panel to the door?
Just replaced my driver's door that was damaged in an accident and the new door doesn't close all the way (maybe a bent mount). Hopefully this will fix it. Thanks for the video!
Just brought home a '64 Catalina 2+2 from resto/body shop. The gap to front fender is fair, probably should have been wider. I installed new door weatherstrip, but haven't closed the door all the way with the resistance and concern about that fender gap. It looks like it's even closer now. I'm concerned with it rubbing my new paint. Is that accurate, the weatherstrip will push the door toward the fender meaning I need to readjust? Thanks in advance.
Thank you for this video! Extremely helpful and one of the better explanations on YT! I am curious, you don't mention the striker installation or adjustment. At what point in the process do you deal with the striker? I see that the striker is removed during adjustments. Assuming this happens after all other adjustments? Would love to hear your approach.
Our car was hit at night (in front of the house), and the DS door was bent and jammed till the extend I think to replace it. But it is a question how to remove that door. A large bent is on the central and bottom part with some sharp crevices near the lower hinge. The blow was so strong that the car was moved from the road to the side walk. That hinge is bent from its normal position, and I can't open that door. I thought to apply a braker bar, but after this film think to play around with that lower hinge by lifting or lower the door and try to open it that way. Thank you very much for this informative film.
❤ thank you very much Will this apply to 2nd gen f body as well. You make this seem easy. I've been aggravated at passenger side door. I just got my driver side door and window adjusted. I'm putting tape on my door to help me remember the adjustment. Thanks
Excellent information. Thanks for making it. Been wrestling a 88 grand wagoneer door....I think I have made every mistake possible. Have one more. The front door seems more like a truck door hinge. Just need to get the bottom to pull in. I will put me an big "x" on it this weekend and have a beer to help my thinking then try it again...instead of using the drunk monkey technique used on the last three that I just got lucky on and learned nothing ....I learned more in this one video than doing it the 6 times I've attempted it on this jeep...thanks again
You have explained this the best of anyone ! Thanks so much for sharing, this is very valuable knowledge ! Maybe I can get the gaps more correct on my 68 Camaro now.😊
What kind of car are we talking about ,assuming with Phillips head bolts its a Nova ,if there tight it is difficult to get to the cowl bolts with out removing the fender and you will probably need and inpact screw driver .
Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done! Just bought a 2007 Chevy Silverado and as I opened the drivers front door I hear a hard crunch screech of sorts. I can see a point about 1/3 up on the front of the door hitting on the rear of the front driver fender. Was going to try to loosen bolts and adjust but this seems very logical and I do have many many sockets. So, front door hitting on bottom 1/3 to front fender, therefore must make go up, therefore must use a socket on lower hinge. I'd worry about my fingers but they have already been destroyed from wrenches breaking torques and my poor fingers crashing into brackets to save the wrench. Nicely Done, Very Nicely Done, Thanks!!!!!
