Hey man, thanks for the video! I greatly appreciate it. Just recently got a 89 LX and i gotta remove the rear calipers that were added on because they seized over the winter and i cant get the lower bolt to backout due to the shock being in the way. Youve made this process look easy as pie.
I know your video is a few years old I’m rebuilding a low rider on the rear fender were there 2 spacers between the strut rod and fender or 4 thanks. Nice ride by the way.
Just so you know another reason to watch vice grip garage especially if you need information is Three of the trucks they have are a 66 Ford f100 but I think it was a 302,67 Ford f250 240L6 4spd manual shift transmission, and the 71 Ford f250 sport custom camper special trim truck Keith sir...
My grandpa always taught me in a pinch use the top of the box the ignition points comes in will always get you in the ball park of the specified gap and get it running,, and you can fine tune it after you see how it is going to run..
The old usa vv,va g1 and G2 USA made series craftsman ignition wrench sets people say have no uses this is what they are made for and changing the starter like on a ford and Chrysler remote mount solenoid and the gm block mount starter with the solenoid on it,, those are usually like 5/16, and 1/4 inch for the ignition parts and the starter nuts are like 11/32
I think those blue and silver lettering plug wires you are changing are napa belden high temp resistant silicone jacket ignition wire set, and I have used several sets and I think they are pretty decent id say that the coil boot has been changed or twisted from where it was supposed to be, that being said the sets i have used were electronic ignition system not points.. i have the same thing in my 2000 dodge ram laramie slt quad cab long bed 318 magnum V8 1500 4x4 and I have had a black set of belden wires as well that was put on my early 94 Chevy extended cab short bed Z71 tbi Silverado sbc v8
Brown scotch Brite and the green one will work as well you probably won't want them anywhere near stainless steel especially the green scotch Brite pads
Im pretty sure you have probably already fixed the doors on the truck, but the 69-70 custom has metal door panels and you could go that route with your project if you don't want the plastic type door panels in the truck
Thanks, that is a slow process. Everyone of them is different, I used needle nose pliers and screw drivers to take them off, ford used a special tool for the ignition switch but I wasnt going to spend $25 for that tool. Just took my time, especially when I was putting them back in.
How is the truck build going? Just saw this video haven't been on here much lately. Getting ready to start my Crew cab F250 restore, hopefully within a month or so! Glad I have a 70 f250 for my daily Driver while doing my 69 Crew cab!
Its going pretty good. Got the engine running. I had to take it to a shop to solve the no start issue. It ended up being a few things, defective condenser, starter solenoid and rebuilt carb I got had some issues that they fixed. So nice to have it running now. Next step is to finish the body work and prime and paint. I hope to have it painted this summer. Good luck on your project.
Truck looks great! Excellent project for you. Are you building to keep? I am gettin ready to restore my69 25O crew cab short box. Daily driver is 1970 f250 camper special 390 and all the extras, both front discs 390 auto ps pb a/c etc. Love them!! Congrats Nice! Again Nice truck
@@keithskustoms2311 that's a huge plus! My crew cab has been driven by me for 40 plus years, absolutely no dents, doors close like Cadillac doors, undercarriage is perfect yet lots of rust everywhere. Gonna do off frame restore to it. my driver is near perfect miscellaneous little things, can go to California in it Now if needed! Still pretty for its age too
Very Nice Truck! Nice shape to start with and a very very nice truck with all that work done to it! Hope you have done all that nice work to make it a Keeper! If it's going to be offered for sale though, please contact Me. Great Project bet you had Fun
If you go to 10:50 in the video it kind of goes through that. I didnt take the wires out of the turn signal itself. They are sealed in the turn signal. I cut the wires in the middle making staggered cuts, then feed the wires through the new turn signal rod and through the fender, then mount it on the bike and solder your connections back together and connect them back in the tail light.
Thank you. The best produced and informative video. Thanks for including the struggles to get it out. So realistic. And those little annoying plastic clips!!!
I am getting ready to start resto on my 1969 Crew Cab Short Box, had it since it was a Baby! Daily Driver now is 1970 F250 Sport Custom Camper Special in very Nice and still original but is getting a little Needy! Yep Love the Bumps! my favorite trucks Thanks for Sharing
ok i have a question my bike for some odd reason has a 5/16 bolt for the horn mount and 3/8 bolt obviously did not fit. where the hell do i get the correct sized horn mount so i can mount this crash bar. its been driving me insane trying to find the correct mount for the horn
Nice job! Just one question about the connectors. Could the wires be removed from the black plastic plugs? I have removed wires from other connectors could the be removed and inserted again?
