Thanks for pointing that out. Didnt have multi purpose grease at the time, so had to make quick repair. No squeaks since for 4 years now. Anything else?
Yes. Usually, you would need to use heli-coils to use a different bolt of identical size. I was having trouble as one of the drill bits snapped during drilling. So had to make quick repair. It lasted for months. Hope that helps.
I have 2011 Kia sportage that needs front wheel barring replaced. According to your awesome video I just need to order the replacement hub. I don’t need entire steering nuckle with hub on it? Just hub same as you replaced in this video. No pressing of barring necessary this way. Correct?
the video is interesting. The only thing that i dont understand is this: What is the difference between C1 and C2? and are C2 and C5 the same? And what is the difference between them?(i think both C2 and C5 engage P3 ring gear because they are connected)
All you have to do is remove one 10mm bolt that rests at the top side of the wheel hub. Use a pick tool to gently clean every from around the sensor and lift up on it. Follow the cable into the inner rear cabin of the vehicle to unplug it. Remove 4 10mm bolts, that have the wire bolted onto the frame. Install the new one.
The hoses are cheap and you can spend around $30 total to do this repair: - Hose $4.00 - Power steering fluid to top up $26 Find a power steering return hose line that fits your vehicle here: amzn.to/46VjuNa *IMPORTANT: AFTER THE INSTALLATION* make sure to lube the newly installed power steering return line with General Purpose Grease *on the outside.* This will ensure your new return power steering line does not crack in winter.
Thank you for building the case against Canadian Tire Auto Service. Its clear they just want to rip you off. So sad they dont care about repeat clients.
I think for most folks who don't do a lot of jacking up a car, especially the Sorento as was used in this demo, the options mentioned are pretty simple to follow and safely get the job done. Of course, like many things, there are often other ways to do things. Thanks for the video. It would be helpful for those who have other suggestions to provide a video too. :)
I have Skoda Rapid Tdi 2013 Stage 1 done. Have driven 2000km after doing so. I have just changed the battery and after new battery is set, the speedometer stopped and glowplug signing on. There is no pickup issue at all. Only kilometre reading stalled. Checked the ECM terminals, no ABS sensor issue detected. On scanner Speed reading is showing though , checked speed needle motor on scanner Ok. All error codes are erasing but Error code P061000 cannot be cleared. What to do ??
I have a 2011 Sorento 2wd, so removing the hub is much easier for me. However when installing the new sensor on the back of the hub, it is very loose fitting and I’m worried that that will allow dirt and debris into the hub bearing. Anyone else experience a loose sensor? I’m going to RTV over it and send it but I’m sure a new wheel bearing assembly will be what I do next time.
For JDM vehicles I've always seen the best resources when using ALLDATA or Identifix. Because they are almost identical except for support service. But material wise go with these 2 hands down.
I was a flat rate tech for years. got out of the automotive field become a certified structural welder and now do restoration work building old blazers and broncos . more on the fab/welding side as opposed to painting etc. I'm probably going to stay in the restoration/body work line opposed to be a flat rate automotive tech
mine has 224k miles still running good, the only bad thing is a sensor code that came on last week, P009 for a intake actuator broken, i will fix it and the car will runs good again (it is even running good actually so far even with a bad code on it) but i always changed the oil every 3500 miles and flush transmission fluid too! it is a good car if you take care of it
I didn’t think this was the case every time? Only if the two strut bolts had the alignment gauges made on them? I’m not sure just doin research for my 2011 Kia sportage but a different video explains two different types of strut bolts & some are for alignment & some are not?
To get to the "injection bolt", or fill plug at the top of the transmission more easy, you can take out the battery and battery mount. It is only 7 screws to do that and it gives you a ton more space to get a ratchet in there and a funnel for filling. You will need a 10mm, 1/2in, and - I believe - 12mm sockets.
