This channel is about working with your hands. Few things bring more satisfaction than actually creating something from something else. From taking a stack of wood and ending up with a piece of furniture to taking some flour, eggs, butter and other ingredients and baking a plate of chocolate chip cookies, the process of doing something with your hands regularly is an important part of staying well grounded. In other words, it just helps your brain work better. Mostly you will see construction and shop projects from simple wood working to major remodels and lots in between. Maybe even a little philosophy will be sprinkled in here and there. Regardless of your skill level in working with tools, I think you will see things that you find interesting. So, come along, click to subscribe. It has taken me a long time to fully embrace the notion that learning to work with my hands has been the single most important achievement in my life. Hopefully, I can encourage you in that way, too.
I would have used some wood filler to blend the wood attachment to the door as it looks obvious that it's an additional piece. When I hung my doors one I over cut and messed up, I went and brought a wood batton, and glued it on, then filled in the gap before sanding and you would never know the door had a piece attached. Also barn doors shouldn't have the door frame still on. The entire frame should be removed. Then the rail attached to the wall directly no wood. This way it's flush to the wall and you have no gap. As you mentioned these doors leaves gap and not to install in open areas.
Copper used to be the standard for decades until Pex came along and was accepted by the regulators but as you know, copper has its problems too. CPVC was generally used in mobile homes. PVC under pressure has always been ok to use in lawn sprinkler systems but not in homes.
This video and your other more extensive shower with bench video has helped so much!! Would love to pick your brain and maybe get some answers with what I'm trying to tackle !!
Glad the videos are helpful, Melissa! Feel free to email me at rusty@dobbsworkshop.com with pictures as needed. Would be happy to give you an opinion or two on what you are working on!
In this case, I built the shelf from about 2 1/2" wide pieces of pine so that the holes could be drilled on my drill press. So I only had to align the holes properly when glueing up the shelf to get a good result. To freehand drill straight holes in a wider solid shelf, you need to rig up some type of jig on the edge of your shelf to help keep the drill bit tracking in the center of the shelf as you work. The rods don't have to be tight in the holes, so the drilling process can be pretty forgiving.
Just typical wood assembly screw that are about 2 1/2" long in this case. I like the square head version because they grip better when installing or removing.
No sure I completely understand your question, but drains and sewage lines are not pressurized so the answer is pretty straightforward. Anything that will stop the flow of water is a solution. If it’s a crack or a loose connection of parts that screw together, there are products on the market to try to seal those areas. Thanks for watching!
😀A gray hair like you should've known how to replace just the socket (the brass part) to service the faulty switch. *Unless your wife told you she hated the yellow cord and wanted it gone, you did it the difficult, wasteful way. Poor viewers--who thought they had to destroy the cord and dismantle the whole lamp to fix the switch. For everyone else: Start the video at 6:50. As shown, pry or pull apart the socket leaving the base on the lamp (a slender flat blade screwdriver works well), unscrew the two wire terminals so you can remove and discard the switch portion. The rest should be self explanatory. You might want to take this video down and re-do it. Do some closeups of the wiring part. I'd be ashamed, personally, if this was my work. All in good fun. 😄
Thanks for watching and your comment! For this video I used Sketchup to do the animation but it is not really a great animation tool. It took me a while but I have since converted over to Blender which is a lot more versatile.
The bathroom tile in my new house looks exactly like this tile and with the thin grout lines as well. I will have to save this video for my next project. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for sharing your expertise. Did you do anything special to keep the sharp lathe from slicing the pan liner? I didn't see where you did the flood test, maybe you did that after installing the lathe?
No, just common sense to make sure the lathe isn’t gouging into the pan material anywhere. The shower pan liners I use are quite thick, durable and pliable. A flood test is not required for this type of installation where I live. With the preslope in place and carefully installing the pan to make sure there are no penetrations prior to the final dry pack, this type of installation will last until someone wants to update the tile. Thanks for watching, Peter!
Question help please, I made 2 doors for a barn door system, but not going well, doors are flush at the top but almost a 1” gap at the bottom, I can’t figure it out.
Good thing, John, is that there are lots of ways to adjust doors… probably too many so it can get confusing! Not that is matters too much at this time, but since you made your doors, are they square? Diagonal measurements will be very close if they are. One quick way to look at a solution for your situation is to think that if each of your doors were raised about 1/4 inch higher in the center where they meet and the outer wheels continue to rest on the rail, the bottom gap would come close to disappearing. You can place shims under each door in the center and see what you need to accurately close the gap. To make that position permanent, you could lower the holes in your doors on the inner wheel hardware and tighten the wheels up to hold that position when the doors are re-hung. If your doors were level at the top before this adjustment, obviously they are not now. Once you get your gap where the doors meet in the middle the way you want, you can mark a level line across both doors at the top and trim the doors at the line. That modification will not be noticeable and your doors will be level to sight at the top and your gap where they meet will be gone. That’s one way to approach your issue. You can adjust all four wheels also to split the difference between more adjustable parts. You just need to understand what it is that you are trying to accomplish before you make big changes that you can’t reverse. Hang in there, John! If you can build your own doors, you can figure this out! You are in the tweaking mode now. Not that far from finishing it up! Good luck!
thank you... I am doing a poured concrete curb, didn't know how to waterproof it. It didnt seem right to just glue the pvc liner on the concrete and put the mortar and tile on the plastic, your way makes more sense lol.
If you have the equipment to sandblast with, it certainly wouldn’t hurt, Jeff. Mainly you want to get rid of loose debris on the iron. The paints these days are pretty good at covering everything else. Fun project!
Yes, Michael, nothing good is going to come from putting nail holes in any type of shower pan liners except maybe at the top edges in traditional showers to hold them in place! This shower floor has worked out great and is still in perfect shape many years later.
I just got done with the second layer of dry pack and I'm wondering do you set the floor tile before addressing the step? Also is the Hardee backer attached to the step with only thinset? Thank you for all the information on your videos! I've been studying for a long time and finally doing it. I noticed that the video with you building the seat on the finished floor has been removed. Thank you rusty you theman!
Yes, John, I set the floor tile before setting tile on the step. Same idea for the walls. I like for the water coming off the walls and step to hit tile on the floor tile rather than a caulk or grout joint. Probably not that big of a thing in the big picture, but that's the way I like to do it. If I am installing Hardiebacker directly on the metal lathe on the step, I treat it like a piece of tile and use plenty of thinset to squeeze it into place and fill the void in the metal lathe. Then, I place boxes of tile against Hardiebacker until the thinset dries. Good job on taking on the challenge of replacing your shower! Floating a shower floor is uniquely rewarding for some reason? Glad my videos have been helpful! Not sure about the video you can't find? I'm not aware of any reason why that might be the case. Good luck with the rest of your project!
Yep, some woodworkers are particularly touchy about wood chisels, especially shop teachers! I do have a relatively nice set of chisels for when I really need a nice chisel! But the ones that find their way into my day to day tool bag are fair game for any use and will be sharpened and/or modified on a belt sander by freehand!
I'm just blown away by your old-school talents! I've never done this process before, but by watching your videos over and over, I feel I can do it. I'm going to try my first shower floor and it will be 36" X 60". Wish me luck Mr. Wonderful!
I'm glad you find the videos helpful! You are right describing it all as a process. You just take it a step at a time and, like with most things, you get better the more you do it. The 60" length makes it a little more challenging particularly if your drain is at one end of the space and not close to the middle. Cut a few longer screed sticks. You will definitely get a good upper body workout floating that shower floor! You've got a great attitude and will learn a lot by taking on this challenge!
I'm about to start this process. Last time I did it i took out all the drywall behind the shower and put cement sheets to eliminate ANY chance of moisture in the walls. Then I sealed it AGAIN with the red paint. then i went and tiled the rest. I'm too scared to use sheet rock, how can you be so sure it wont seep through? The wall I just took out had tons of mold like you showed in the beginning of the video but even the studs are already beginning to rot. I need to somehow fix those too. What are your thoughts?
Hi Melissa. I used a product called Hardiebacker (1/2” thick) on this shower and it is a cement board product and, in my opinion, the best option. It comes in 3’ x 5’ sheets and has special screws to install it. The methods I use in my shower installation videos are consistently done this way with the exception of one large walk in shower that was built with a foamboard product. I personally don’t use the brush on membranes except in specific situations because I think there are some downsides to that. Hardiebacker does a great job of dealing with incidental water that makes its way through grout joints over time. Without looking at your specific situation, I’m not sure what might be causing the problem you have had with your last installation. Using Hardiebacker, getting a good installation on your tile and a good grout job. Sealing the corners with an acrylic latex caulk designed for use with your grout and you should have a shower that will last for many years. You are not asking about the shower floor, but I have several videos on those processes which have worked great for decades. If studs are rotting, you can “sister” pieces of studs against the rotting studs and attach them together where there is solid wood to screw to, then cut out the rotting stud. The steps are pretty straightforward. I hope you have better success this time.
That's what I was thinking! I will try the sister studs for sure and look into the product you suggested too. I appreciate your reply! I might comment again with updates @@RustyDobbs
This was a great video and exactly what I needed....I haven't done anything like this before, but am very excited to try! I am having a hard time figuring out what wood to use - I live in NY where we have the unlucky climate of hot/humid summers and wet/rainy/freezing winters. I feel like my best bets are either oak or cedar for them to last the most. What would be a good weather-proofing product as the final top coat!?
Good luck on your project! Yes, it sounds like your climate is just the right mix to be really destructive to exterior wood surfaces. As far as a finish recommendation, I have had good luck with spar urethane products for exterior uses but my climate conditions in NM are the opposite of yours. I would think maybe some marine products used on boats might be what is recommended by the paint suppliers in your area but I would definitely check with them. They will know for sure where I am just guessing. Yeah, keep taking on projects like this as you develop your skills! It is very rewarding to see the work you can do with your own hands. You get better the more you do this kind of thing, so don't be too hard on yourself if you struggle a bit!
I'm so confused. I never saw you put thinset on the wall. But you back buttered every tile. What am I missing, I've never seen it done this way, Please explain?
Hope I can un-confuse you! The main goal in setting tile is to get as close to 100% coverage of thinset between the back of the tile and the wall when you set it. I don't care how that gets accomplished. I can trowel thinset on the wall and then slightly back butter the tile before setting it, which is the case most of the time and probably what you are used to seeing. In situations like this job, the smaller size of the tile caused me to change my approach. When the trowel size is almost the size or larger than the width of the tile, it is a pain to trowel thinset on the wall, back butter the tile, then cleanup the extra thinset not covered by the tile when it is set. It is not good to set tile on thinset that is beginning skin over and dry on the wall because you may not be immediately ready to set the next piece of tile yet. So, in this case I am gauging the amount of thinset (extra in other words) I'm applying to the back of the tile to allow me to press it in place and get 100% coverage between the tile and the wall. Every so often I will set a piece of the tile, then pop it off the wall to check coverage. You get a sense for this after a while and can tell by feel as you press and rotate the tile in place if you are getting complete coverage or not between a piece of tile and the wall. Just a tweak to my approach to for a specific situation and actually makes for a cleaner installation. Hope that makes sense!
If you are talking about the header piece that the rail attaches to, it would be 3/4" x 6" tall as I recall. The length is about 4" longer than the rail length. The 6" value can vary depending on your preference on how it looks. Hope that answers your question.
Thanks for watching and for your comments! Yeah, I enjoy the 3D world and the video did take a lot of time to make but the good thing is that I could produce the same thing in about a quarter of the time now and it would be better quality. That's the benefit of working through projects like this. Thanks again for your kind comments and I'm glad you enjoyed it!
I am now subscribing. I just hope the video started from the very beggining. What to do if it is painted around the tub, how to remove the faucet and stuff. Should I scrape the paint? I am going to try to do it myself but I have no knowledge about this stuff. What is the brown thing on the wall the you set the tile on? Is it a special type of paper to lay on before putting the tiles? I may sound so ignorant but like I said. I have 0 knowledge about tiling.
I appreciate your enthusiasm for wanting to take on your project! I would encourage you to check out more of my videos and videos of others to get a better understanding of what you need to know before you start. Your questions sound like you are ready to get started as quickly as possible but are not sure you know where to begin. Get answers to your questions before you do anything! A rule of thumb for me has always been to try to know how things are supposed to turn out step by step before I start a project. Then take it step by step! This kind of stuff is really not that difficult but you don't want to begin without gaining some knowledge of the skills necessary and understanding the tools you need to pull this project off. Please don't watch a TV remodel show and just start busting everything up with a sledgehammer! Good luck and start learning!
It is not specifically necessary but your bolts for your rail need to be attached to some sustantial wood in the wall as in studs and/or to a header in the wall above the door opening. A header board makes that easier because it can be secured to structural wood in the wall and then the rail can be easily attached to the header.
@@radinsyah1574 I'm assuming your cross beam is attached to studs in your wall and your rail will be secured to your cross beam. That sounds that should work. You just have to test it out and see. The weight of your door is another factor but I'm guessing from what you have said that your method should be ok. Good luck!
@@RustyDobbs yeah, it’s attached to a couple of verticals that are all attached to metal studs. Am not a big fan of headers that’s why I wondered whether they were necessary in any circumstance lol. Thanks.
This is a super video - I learned a lot. Question: could a person use an on-demand water heater in a distant bathroom rather than running new pipe back to the water heater? That is to say running the entire bathroom one one 3/4" inch cold water pipe?
Thanks for watching and for your comment, Thomas. The simple answer to your question is yes, but as I'm sure you are guessing, it is not without some potential pitfalls that relate to volume of water available and pressure in the lines. But, sure, one 3/4" cold water supply could feed a water heater and hot water lines as well as supplying water to cold water lines. If it is for a master bath with two sinks, a tub and a shower, it would work but probably not very well!
WHAT IN THE EVERLIVIN MOTHE😮R FUCK I S GOING ON HERE!!!!DID THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE CHANGE OVERNIGHT !!!!! DO YOU FUCKING SPEAK ENGLISH????!!!! I AM NOT ,NOT, NOT,! LOOKING FOR BARN INSTALLATION NOT FOR A CLOSET DOOR IN A HOUSE, BUT AN ACTUAL REAL DOOR ON AN OUTBUILDING!!!! AND AL I KEEP GETTING OVER AND OVER AGAIN IS LITTLE CLOSET DOOR INSIDE A HOUSE!!! I WANT TO put a BIG 8X12 WOOD DOOR ON AN OUTSIDE BUILDING !!!! AND ALL I GET IS HUNDREDS AND HUNDREDS OF LITTLE CLOSET DOORS!!!!! WHAT THE FUCK DO YOU NOT UNDERSTAND????!!!!!
Have fun! Yeah, larger showers can be fun! Get ready for a great workout and maybe teach someone to mix the dry pack for you in order to keep it coming as you are ready for more. It is best if you can keep the workflow moving with each drypack layer so that you complete each layer in a single pass without the mix drying out too much as you work. I rarely do shower floors anymore, but it was always one of the more satisfying tasks I have done in construction!
Yes, I use the same mix (1 part portland cement to 4 parts sand) and just add more water to get to the consistency I want to set the brick or pour into forms depending on the situation. I usually toss in another scoop of portland to richen up the mix a little when thinning the mix down.
Most likely it is that the wheels mounted to your door are not aligning exactly with the center of gravity of the door so the door bottom will want to swing one way or the other. Washers could be placed between the wheel arms and the door if it were swinging the other way but unfortunately it may be the case that the wheels might need to be recessed into the door a little in this case which is pretty detailed work with a router. There are door guides in different sizes and styles available that mount to the floor or wall at the base of the door to keep the door aligned plumb to the wall as it is opened or closed. That would be the simplest approach to fix the problem. Hope that helps!
Sure! Ideally, the tile you purchase will have bullnose cap or sometimes it is called surface cap available that has one edge that is rounded and glazed. These are generally pieces that are 2 to 3 inches wide and in various lengths depending on the tile. These pieces are used on the exterior corners of your window and the regular tile butts up against the finished edge of the cap to form a nice corner. It makes sense once you see it! But that’s the best way to deal with windows! Good luck!
I used the same mix I did for the dry pack. I just thinned it enough to use as mortar to set brick and pour into the forms for the exterior of the curb. My mix is one part portland cement to 4 parts sand. I may have added an extra shot of portland for the curb mix to make it a little richer with cement.
Typically, the slabs are 4" thick so the copper passes through the slab and is buried in trenches under the slab that are probably 18" to 24" deep. The copper needs a plastic sleeve installed around it at slab level to keep the concrete from coming in contact with the copper pipe. If the sleeve is not there, the copper will corrode where it touches the cement and leak over time.
Yes, 1/2" Pex for this repair as it feeds the kitchen sink and washing machine. The first repair we did about 15 years ago we ran 3/4" copper to get more volume to the back bathrooms. In either situation, the water flow has not been an issue. Interesting sidenote... this past week the water heater in the video started leaking so we had to make a quick mid-week swap of it. Video to follow! Thanks for watching!
