This channel is about electronics, micro-controllers and software. It's basically a collection of my projects and things which I've found to be interesting. You'll find lots of tutorials here too - the tutorials usually tell you how to wire up and code certain modules, etc. My videos are mainly just me talking while the camera is focused on the object in question, you may hear small people from time to time!
Common themes which my videos might revolve round: My off grid solar power station. Modules and how to code them. Micro-Controllers. Cheap components. General electronics tutorials.
Thanks for stopping by!
For those who wish to support the channel, my Patreon account is here: www.patreon.com/antonycartwright
Some of my project material can be found here: github.com/antonycartwright
@@ivicadrozan6773 Oh no, you do fix something. You fix the possibility of your turbo blowing on an old car, therefore making it useless while driving. This turbo fix has been amazing!
I spent an hour copying all the code only to be stuck :( Under the ConnectDevice method, where you are setting the variable "permissionStatus", the <BluetoothPermission> type is unrecognized. Is this a helper type under your Helpers folder? If so, could you please share?
No offense brother but adafruit are the worst company to buy stuff from. Especially if you're buying stuff for teaching people to code. Ada limor is a hack. Paul stoffogren has written way more libraries than her. And he designed the teensy which is more capable than a pi4 for some things. Besides it's more fun to create your own libraries or read the data sheet and write asm.
Another interesting video Antony. I would love a crack at this for you, but unfortunately I live in the US and am sure it would be too expensive to send over to me. I have reached out to someone, that lives much closer I believe to you, and am hoping that they would be willing to create a video to repair this for you. I enjoy your videos Antony so keep up the good work. I had a dremel similar to the one in this video, and mine worked while plugged in, so maybe you could give that a try. By the way, I didn't even know you could grind at a chip like that and it still work - learn something new every day LOL. 👍
In your spreadsheet please correct the naming of W... it's Power... Wh is Energy (Watt hours)... whether you like it or not. If you don't correct the naming you will be partially responsible for a new generation of confused electrical hobbyists. Power is the rate of flow of energy: P=IV V=IR etcetera.
Hi Antony, +1 for repairing the unit. Although often repairing is time consuming, I always found it educational and satisfying when I could fix something, even if it is something really cheap. (I once made a video about repairing a very cheap boost converter). Your fix of that Mac book sounds impressive. My best fix so far was my 400 euro dishwasher, repaired by replacing a simple SOP8 LNK362 power switching chip, used to power the motherboard. Took some time to figure it out, but while researching I found some fellow victims that illustrated how manufacturers saved two cents on this part at the expense of driving the chip to its very limits. (The slightly more expensive LNK364 5W variant of the chip would have lasted a life time). Thanks for sharing part one of this video! ;-)
@@MaxintRD Ha, yes. I've also repaired my washing machine. For me it was because the board was not laminated. Moisture got to it and then corroded a chip. Unfortunately, the chip was more expensive than a new board. I bought the board for £15. It worked perfectly!
Hi Antony. I think you could actually re-solder that leg pretty easily, mate, as you can even Dremel back into the black plastic, if you need to.....especially as the chip isn't blown. On the chargers, I have had pretty good luck with my FC999 Mark III. It does them all, pretty much, and i have had it for six years now and still going strong.
Hey Anthony, what would happen to the charge of a flooded lead acid battery if you dumped out the acid after charging it? I could see this being used as an emergency source of power capable of jump starting a car that I either won't have to charge at all or only every year or so after pouring the acid back in. Any idea?
If you dumped the acid out, the battery wouldn't be able to charge or discharge anymore. If you put the acid into another battery, then that battery would be able to charge/discharge. If you want a battery that stays charged for a long time, look at lithium. Actually, a few years ago, my car broke down. Someone helped. He had a little lithium battery pack, and it was brilliant.
You repaired the turbo yourself and complained it didn’t work. Turbos absolutely should be refurbished by a licensed repair shop. This is terrible advise
Great video, I'm going to add the CRC check and ModBus error code checking. Most devices run at 9,600 / 19,200 / 38,400 baud over ModBus. A lot of slave devices also need a "quiet time", that is a delay between polls of 5 /10 / 20mS.
Heads up: this is not the original imax charger. Reverse protection is as good as non existant as I have one that died after a mishap *cough cough*. The voltage and current readings are to be taken with a grain of sand too. Don't rely too much on it stopping the charging if the time limit is reached. The counter just overflows at 999:59 and just continues counting the seconds.
I kept saying hit the start button one more time to start the charge, but I forgot you couldn't hear me LOL... You were right, you should have read the manual first ;).
Hi , very informative video. I have one doubt if we need to write the value from the micro-controller to input register how can one should approach please guide regarded this. take this as in put don't generate output.
This procedure still works years later, with the following differences: The library can be downloaded directly into the Arduino IDE using Library Manager and selecting AdaFruit ST7735 and ST7789 Library. The example file will be found under File\Examples\AdaFruit ST7735 and ST7789 Library\graphicstest. Remove the options relating to different types of boards and simply define TFT_RST, TFT_CS and TFT_DC as per the wiring described here. Make sure the option to compile "For 1.44" and 1.8" TFT with ST7735" is the active one. The graphicstest sketch then should run as is. Removing the #include for the 7789 version of the display will save some program space. I have used both the black and the green tab initializer and I can't tell the difference.
Do you have to have an arduino on both sides? If I wanted a very simple sensor, can I just power the transmitter side and pulse it's data line or does the Tx just not work without the processor?
