Wow! So good to get to see the process. Good idea to double up the tabs to carry the current = A clever work-around for the limitations of your welder. Idea = It seems to me that it might be helpful to have independent control over when the welder fires, instead of the one second delay. If we added a foot pedal, you could take all the time you wanted to use the probes to move and secure the tabs. Let me know of your interest.
Thanks! I can set the delay from 0.5 to 5 seconds. A foot pedal would be nice...but I have gotten used to working with the delay. Thanks again for the positive comments!
Im looking to do the exact same thing. Is this just as good as a soft start? Obviously the cheaper route is appealing. I don’t know much about it but I’m finding conflicting ideas. It was hard to find many videos on this as well. I’m running my ac pretty far from the pole is the reason I want to do this and also for future genny applications. Thanks for any help
Thank you for your comment, however misguided. The well tip is at 43 ft but the static water level is at 8:00 to 9 ft below the surface of God's green earth! A jet pump has no problem with that.
Love the strap idea and the insulated panel. I viewed your video on changing the electrical outlet for the microwave. Simple but very effective. Thanks.
My n302 gets hot on gas and eletric. (Good flame) But the fridge doesnt get cold at all. Cant see any yellowish leak anywhere. The fridge baffles are properly alighned to direct air through coils properly. But nothing gets anything old even if left on for hours
If the gas are electric elements are reaching proper operating temperature and the coolant is hot as it needs to be, then your problem is probably related to the actual coils not making proper contact with the cooling fins and such. This uses a thick heavy thermalastic to join the two together over time, that mastic will get dry, hard and crack and will no longer transfer the coal to the proper parts. Good luck!
Excellent. I really don't know if she ever used it much. I hope you enjoy it! Since then, we have bought another TM, a 3023. It has a bed on each end. That said...I still miss the one you have purchased. I Wish you the best!
These are fantastic tips, and I want to thank you for sharing them with everyone. I wonder if you could tell us where you found the poles and the fabric pieces for the pockets, and how long the poles are so we can be sure to get the correct length?
They are fiberglass tent poles that I purchased at Academy Sports...but are available at lots of camping stores and Amazon. The pocket/sleeve material was made from a piece of Sunbrella fabric and I sewed it on. The length is sort of guesswork. I shortened one of the poles to make it fit. It is all a custom job. But, worth it! Good luck! Amazon search for the poles: amzn.to/48nkWHi
My Suburban Thermostat went out, and I called my local RV dealer. It would cost me $169 for a diagnostic test, plus labor and parts charges. I am so thankful I ran across this fix. I saw the video was done 4 years ago. It is now 2024, and the SC 1600 has doubled in price. I still saved quite a bit and have a better Thermostat.
Glad this was beneficial for you. I do hate the thermostat has gone up in price. BUT...it is still a much better choice than the OEM unit. Have a blessed day!
Have heard it’s risky to do if you have high miles and never changed. What are your thoughts? Just bought one with 230k miles and never serviced transmission fluid
That is sort of a crap-shoot. If it were me, I'd just drop the pan, change the filter and refill. If after a lot of driving and all is well, then I'd do the complete fluid exchange. Just don't let anyone do one of those power-flush fluid exchanges. Good luck.
The most important thing about having that pressure weight set properly is, if you have it jumping around constantly, you take the risk of boiling your pressure cooker dry, which not only ruins the food, but can cause distortion in the pot that never goes back to normal once cooled off. The American Book of Pressure Cooking states very strictly to NEVER eat anything that was in a pressure CANNER that allowed itself to go BELOW the required pressure, even for a short time, you simply have to start over, that is how serious it is to lose your pressure...so start with a lot of heat and turn your pressure cooked DOWN until you get just what this video shows, 15 seconds and then and little " dance".
This is the best video I've seen for this fluid swap. Great job! This is my first "sealed" transmission, and I thought it would be difficult to change the fluid, or that the pan/filter would be different in some way from a regular transmission. But I'm confident now that this can be done at home with ease.
It turns out the gas valve assemble was failing. It was not holding the gas pressure. I ordered the gas valve from Amazon.com. This is a Link to the Part from my Amazon Associates Account. amzn.to/3SzvKht
Yes sir! Exactly as you said and I’m up and running! I’m a new rv owner and the message groups all catastrophize with everything from control boards to sail switches. Thanks again!
I've had zero transmission problems since making this video, around 30,000 miles. That includes off-road and pulling our 3,500 lb camper about 8k miles. When I do my next drain and fill, I'll be using the Maxlife ATF again.
Yes, but for me it is not worth the hassle. The output from the inverter (the plug) goes into the bay where my RV power cable is located. If I know I won't have shore power, I just simply plug the camper into that cable coming from the inverter. On this camper...sometimes less is more! Thanks for the input!
Thanks for making this video, lots of good information. I've watched it 3 times already just to get my head around the procedure. I have an 07 with 265,000 Mi on it, I don't think anything has ever been done to the transmission. I'm assembling a parts list to get everything that I need. If I understand correctly, first thing I need is to drop the pan, and clean the filter or replace it, then get new gasket for the pan, then start the process you've detailed here. Toyota WS costs more than gold it seems, I may look into a different fluid brand, what do you recommend? I assume I don't need to remove fill plug using your method, I'd just need new drain and check valve bolts and crush washers?
You are welcome. Transmission filter needs to be replaced. There are certainly fluid alternatives. I used Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic. Yes, remove the fill plug in case you need to adjust the level. Always better to know you can get it out before draining the fluid. Good luck!
I can't like this enough, we are in the Big Horn mountains and it is in the 40's. I have six dogs with me and my furnace just stopped working. I tried your trick and it worked. thank you so much for this information!
thanks for the video it gives me hope that I can fix ours without having to buy a new fridge, same model as yours. Our flame stays lit, a little quirky getting it gong but then it stays. The trouble is the fridge doesnt get cold anymore... do you think simply replacing the safety valve will fix that ? thanks again
If the flame is staying lit, then your safety valve is working. Also if it is working on AC and not very good on gas, then you either need to clean or replace the burner.
You Have the best video on understanding the weighted Jiggler on top of your pressure canner. You say the weight should wiggle every 15 to 30 seconds, thats what I listen for. I also like to use my canner outside or if its cold outside I can in garage. Thanks for the good watch.
Negative. Your thermostat is closing (turning on) the circuit that tells the heater to turn on. At first glance...it sounds like the "air SAIL SWITCH" is not operating properly. This switch simply gets pushed by the blowing air (coming from the fan) and makes contact. This connection is what allow the heater to continue to the lighting and heating function. If that switch is stuck open and not confirming that air is flowing, the heater will never light. Many times bugs (dirt dobbers/wasps) get inside and build a nest; if the nest blocks the sail switch the heater will never light. Do a search for a Sail Switch for your heater. There are RU-vid videos that cover this in detail. Good luck!
Yes. This system worked well for two years and then I sold that TM, 164 nights of camping. I have installed a similar system in our new TM. However, it uses the same fan. Here is a link to what I would recommend. amzn.to/3OtVvfo
I did this and man it is the best! Wipe out the mosquitoes in one night. My mower finally broke so i took the same premise and bought a motor did the same set uo but now i put it In the golf cart. Thanks for the video!
That's pretty slick. The curtain material was a nice touch. The Butterfly likes the light coming in through the door window, but we aren't usually in the Southern latitudes or in the TM during the day. I was thinking of putting a curtain up similar to the rest of ours. I'll have to see if the boss is ready for it.
Matt, Thanks! I prefer the light as well...except when the sun is hammering the right side of the camper. It has already made a big difference sitting in the driveway. Thankfully the panel is easy to remove and can store under a cushion or mattress. Hope y'all are doing well! We will be back on the road mid Sept and will be rolling for 2-3 months. Maybe we'll catch up along the way. I sent you a FB Friend Request.
