Don’t slam it in foward or you’ll end up pulling the trans and replace gears 😢😢😢 Try adjusting it first when it starts giving trouble or not going in gear properly 😊😊😊
@philliphall5198 interesting. I was working on sil's Johnson outboard. It kept popping out of forward. Gears looked ok . In hindsight I'm not sure as the rider I just fixed with new gears had looked ok to me. Anyway, in my outboard research I read that gear wear is from being too slow/gentle engaging the shift lever
Great video! Walk me through everything I needed to do to put a new carburetor on and get my snowblower purring like a kitten just in time for winter. Thanks a bunch
FYI for anyone trying to troubleshoot idling probs...my 94 Ciera has the 3100 SFI engine, ended up being the EGR causing rough idle and stalling. You should be able to test your EGR fairly easily if it has solenoids like mine. 9 volt battery with some jumper (test) leads, you can hear the solenoids clicking, or NOT clicking. You can find the details with a net search. You can check resistance on the solenoids as well with your multimeter. 🙂
The roller inductor that you have there is nothing new. I built a Heathkit SA-2060A back in the early 80's and the inductor is exactly like what you have. It works pretty well. I still have and use the Heathkit. I watched another video on the Murch and the counter problem was solved with replacing the spring at the end of the ratchet pawl. The original had become loose and the pawl was not turning as it should. Good luck with that. I have one that I got in an SK estate auction a few months ago. I'm going to clean it up, not that it needs it, and sell it. 73, KD5IL
My check engine light is on in stage one night since I bought this car and now I'm shutting off I don't know what the hell is wrong with it but it's irritating me
Hey how do you like your tunner? I got the 2000B and it's a beast of a tunner ..mine has a meter and antenna switch. I haven't got to use mine yet but I will soon have my shack back up and running after moving .P.S it doesn't have a dummy load but it dies have a so239 to use a exsternal dummy load....
@@Jukeboxkcnsd I love it! I've got a B model in repair also. Two others I'm very interested in are the Millen tuner, and the blue mountain radio research tuner. That one is worth a look but not cheap.
I keep getting a code P0457 on my 2010 Forester. I have replaced all valves and EVAP canister.. Do you think this could be the rest for the code? I get poor gas mileage after a full tank filliup with strong odor of gas.
@@BlakesGarage1 Thanks bro. I have replaced: Gas Cap, EVAP canister, Purge valve, EGR valve and PCV valve. Still having the same issue. I will check it out soon. Any idea where I can get a new Fuel Filler neck?
would this throw a P0455 or P0457 code.I,m trying to find out why mine keeps coming on after replacing a lot of components like Canister,purge valve,gas cap,etcDoes anyone have any ideas on how to fix this.Car is 2006 Subaru forester.thank you
Thank you for this video. I'm about to tackle the water pump on my 5.2 L 97 dodge b2500 ram van. Without your video I would probably have it in a $hop. The fan tip was most helpful along with the bolt sizes. Thank you
@@BlakesGarage1 Yeah I checked ac fuses and relays in the fuse box and they all look good. I'm gonna look for my wire clip connectors and straight wire from Battery to fan plugs next to see if I got power that way. Then if no power I'll try changing out that relay block. Hey thanks for your help Brother!
Thank you for this video. Yours was the only one dealing with the Hybrid model Altima. I was able to get my jumper cables. Teach me for putting things away!😂
Every video, where the belt drive you have running from rear wheel to clutch or torque converter. Howd you do it ? Theres usually a sprocket for the chain but instead you have a belt@BlakesGarage1
@SpiderMan-p3q the shaft with the stock sprocket mounted to it is removable (torque converter) and held in place with a snap ring. The sprocket slides off of the keyed shaft. I removed the sprocket and using an aluminum pulley, I think 3/4 ID, I ground off the "hub" portion of the pulley where factory set screws are located. This left me with only the 1/2 wide by 3/4 ID pulley due to the limitations in thickness required to fit on the torque converter. In the case of this video, I'm using a centrifugal pulley which I purchased that way.
@@SpiderMan-p3q it may not have been a snap ring. I just rewarded part 6 where the torque converter arrived. The stock sprocket is easily removable before assembling the torque converter. Hopefully this makes sense
I have one for caster oil but it just broke and I’m not sure what is broken. So I am trying to figure out how it functions internally. But nice video. I would try to minimize the face time and just get to business with the subject matter at hand. I hope that helps!
I switched out the cylinder five ignition coil and a new code showed up! Number 4 had oil in the plug. Put a new plug and still misfires. I don’t know what’s next to check!
Thank you thank you thank you!!! Your video showed me how to get in to a 2006 Altima with a long-dead battery. I would never have had any idea if not for you. I really appreciate your help!! 🙏🎉
Oh my god thank you! I've just spent like 3 hours trying to find where this thing is located. I've been trying to find the park light relay. Everyone says it's inside the fuse box. I was like no, I'm looking at it right now and the relay isn't there. I was looking at wiring diagrams and manuals and forum posts and nobody would ever say exactly where this thing is. Honestly, I didn't even know that panel came off lol. You just made my headache so much better. Thank you!
Did you modify the air intake yourself? I like it. I’m experiencing some overheating and think this is an awesome idea. Did you cap the hole in the floor that originally went to the air cleaner?
As I watch these vids on EZGO gas carts I’m almost regretting buying one. Mine is only a few years old and does not have that many hours on it as it’s a weekend only use cart, if that, around the neighborhood with very easy use on it. Common issue that I see is and that I have experienced is it’s running and then stops for no reason. Pushing the pedal and nothing, zero, nada, nothing happens. Put it in reverse and it starts and goes. Put it in Forward and off we go. For a little while. Then it happens again. For a cart that probably does not have 25 hours run time total, it’s just not dependable. I’ve named it Garage Queen. It loves being in the shop. 🤦♂️
@@BlakesGarage1 Yessir. Too many issues. Mine is about 5-6 yes old and is pristine looking - even the engine compartment,compared to those that are 1990’s to 2010 vintage. It gets TLC treatment yet gets cranky. Just thought EZ Go was a long time brand that was known for quality. They certainly have had years to perfect the golf cart.
This is common when the ooo oil is dryed out and not properly lubricant of the parts I use 140w gear oil back in them and have had no problems I’ve even added Lucas hub oil to the 140W to thicken it up which is how I do them all now for 15 years 😊
Thanks for the helpful vide. My repair was like reliving the video. After cleaning all the fragments out of the hose fitting, I also sprayed the washer for a while to blow out any stragglers.
Video shows where it is, beyond that, its two screws. Unfortunately this is a video for how to test the maf as titled, not how to replace. Thanks for watching
