This channel is filled with how to videos on how to fix cars and motorcycles. Videos range from very simple to complicated repairs. I try to post once a week alternating between automotive repair and educational videos.
I cover many different brands such as Chevrolet, Dodge, Ford, Acura, Honda, Toyota, Hyundia and more. I cover brake jobs, wheel bearings, engine work, custom fabrication, and detailing. I also talk about different specialty tools that I come across that would be useful for the mechanic in us all.
I am a licensed mechanic and appreciate comments and encourage constructive discussion for everyone to learn. I am a true automotive enthusiast Feel free to ask questions.
Please note that you take on any responsibility when attempting repairs on your own. If you don't feel comfortable please take your car to a licensed repair shop.
This is a great thing to be able to do yourself. I’ve saved hundreds since I learned how. The R12a works great for me, it’s cheap, it’s environmentally friendly, and it’s widely available. 😎
You can run it low, that's never a problem, but running it high can create problems. Usually your compressor will begin to operate with as few as a couple oz (1-3oz), and begin to cool around 5oz, so even if you put in a full 8oz can its going to cool, but if you have a leak (which you probably do) its not going to last as long.
@@GarageKing Oh ok .. in my case, I just had an engine swap in my little 03 civic. But I wasn’t told that the ac gas would be completely drained. I guess I’ll just use a single full 12oz can.
@@PeaceNinja007 Good Call, if you look at the 2:50min mark of the video where I'm showing the manual you can see for an 03 the amount is 1.1 to 1.21lbs which works out to about 14oz so if your system is totally empty so are good to go with a full 12oz con and that should make your system pretty cold. I know its not always practical for the average guy, but if you have a way to evacuate it that would be good (just a cheap amazon compressor ) amzn.to/4bH5lEi but you need one with the gages like in the link. Evacuating your system will make it colder, and also remove moisture that causes corrosion inside.
@@GarageKing Yea I was thinking about that as well. Admittedly I find that stuff kind of intimidating lol I don’t want to mess something up right after I just paid 3k to repair my car. I try the can alone for now and if I don’t find it cooling as it should, I’ll get a compressor
I would not check the capacitor while its hooked up, you could but its dangerous, and you may be doing it wrong. I would disconnect the wires, discharge the capacitor, and then measure the microfarad readings.
I picked mine up from Costco, sometimes they have them on sale. I did a little video on it when I first bought it, but I think now they have an extended version ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0JsUoW2aXOA.html
Xtool is good as well. I never tried the Autel so I really can't say much regarding Autel. I do prefer Launch so far with all the scanners that I have used.
This dude really made an entire video and didn't mention what the part was he was taking off what gasket and or part numbers. Never seen anything like it LOL
i own and operate a tint and ppf shop, have been doing it for roughly 10 years. we are one of xpel’s biggest accounts. I love watching diy, professional videos. I loved your video! for a diy, i’m highly impressed. I can do this bumper start to finish in 30 mins mind you. this isn’t an “easy bumper” for beginners by any means. if you’re going to do more, and ever want any tips and tricks i’d love to help. great job man. great explaining through the whole process.
Thank you for the great response, and compliment. You're a lot better than me LOL. This job took me a few hours :) I don't have anything in the que right now but I may take you up on your offer in the future. Thank You
I can't thank you enough for filming this and posting it! My neighbor's 2006 S-Type sprung a leak and it turned out to be the heater valve. A quick trip to the parts store and an hour worth of my time and it was back on the road and running better than ever. It also gave me an excuse to buy a few more tools that I "needed" to get the job done and to keep in my toolbox for future use. Thanks again!
Where is the starter relay?? 🤷🏻♂️ Iv got the same problem. Put a new battery and a new starter. Cant find the starter relay in either of the 4 fuse boxes... This is an old video but Please help if you can
I tried recharging my 08 civic as it was blowing 100°f air and everything was spinning. The attachment I got said not to exceed 38 psi. It was at that when attached pretty quickly and the AC just leaked and the can was still pretty full. I left the hose attached to the can because it started spewing when I tried to take it off . Airs a bit cooler now but worried it won't last
Hey There and sorry to hear that happened to you. You can exceed 38psi on the low side. I try to keep it around 30-40 for filling. What probably happened is the connector on the hose was tight (where the can screws in) If you look on the connector there is a brass (normally) nut thats under the wing part that you twist into the can. If that nut is loose once you pierce the can you are going to get a major leak. Also once you are at 30-40 you turn the nut to "throttle" the amount of refrigerant going in, so you can keep it between 30-40 and empty the can into the car that way. I would take another go at it. Just check to make sure the fittings are tight on the connector.
@@myturn3886 Hey there, Its a few hour job for sure. I would say depending on how much you are paying your guy, about 3hrs. The part didn't cost too much, I think the axel was only like 150 or so.
You need a different charger, this one does not have a plug, it gets hard wired in. You need to order one of the 240V ones that plug in, something like this. amzn.to/4f2H3aw but you have to make sure you get the right end, there are a few 240V plug options.
Can’t believe you were able to re-torque the supercharger bolts . They are yield 1 time use, mine snapped . I replaced with ARP after finding out Chevy wants $30 each bolt times 10..😳 No way. Great video otherwise. Was thinking of getting a Mighty Mouse but might try this one for my Z06.
Yep I reused them a few times. They are not torque to yield. Maybe they are just torqued close to their limits. Torque to yield bolts ALWAYS have a degree spec after the set torque, so if they were 5 ft/lbs or 89 in/lbs + 90 degrees then they are torque to yield. I'm a GM technician. I think these are just torqued close to their maximum capacity, and GM knows that most people never use a torque wrench so they suggest to just get new ones. You might want to watch my comparison video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JTU6FWYVMXQ.html and what makes a good catch can ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bQE1qEtP8dQ.html I have a few others, but these are pretty good ones. Appreciate your comment.
A few relevant things you forgot to mention. The Browser is crap and you can not install google chrome. Forget about adding any apps, there is no google play-store installed and you can not access any application management functions. As a useful tablet running android 10 it is worthless.
is this better if vin is put in? nissan xtrail t30 diesel germany 2003 only thing that connected to it other than launch elite 431 pro i just got the d7s i like it
If the VIN is put in the tests are more set up to what you have, but I found that I actually get more out of it without the VIN, as you see more tests. Keep in mind some won't work, but I found you have more variety, and you get some tests that are not there if you put the vin in. I found this scanner very easy to use.
If you don't know how to measure capacitance with a meter that measures capacitance, perhaps you shouldn't be going anywhere near electronics. That's like not knowing how to measure voltage with a voltmeter (with an autoranging voltmeter). FFS! Seriously?
Maybe saying the capacitor can be +6% or -6% off. So for the 7.5uF, it can be 7.95uF or 7,05uF. The large one : 74.2 or 65.8 It's pretty small deviation , those are expensive caps.
GK, you are just awesome! Another success story here on a 2008 civic coupe. I have not had AC like forever. Went out and bought AutoZone California R134a Refrigerant 12oz, then charged my car an hr ago. Inside car temp went from 87F to 46F when done, with ambient temp 92F (California). Thank you so much! Two questions if I may, 1/ when I tried to purge the air in the line, I didn't hear any "Psst" sound at all, like the pressure sound at 4:28 mins into your vid. Why was that? I went ahead anyway, any consequences? 2/ Could you make another video to diagnose leaks with a dye? My car is old so hopefully the charge stays; otherwise, I would have to diag a leak in the AC system. Thanks again!
Hey there and thanks for the comment. If you didn't get any "Psst" sound it most likely because you didn't have any pressure at all in the system. What I tried to show was loosening the can a bit (before you do the job) will allow some of the refridgerant to come out, just a tiny bit, and that will push the regular air out. So for you, you probably got a little air in, no worried with the lenght of the charge hose its such a small amount. I'm planning to do a dye video :)
Well if you use environmentally friendly stuff you can just vent it out, but if you are using anything that can damage the air we breath you should have a shop evacuate some out. If you are just over an oz or two it would be fine.
Yep, I think its to try to help the environment. Back in 1963 it was because GM was cheap, and then the spin on filter got popular. Now today I think its to save steel, but I could be wrong.
Nice. But having it outside makes me wonder what would stop someone from borrowing it while you were out or at night? I guess a camera might, but some people don't care. :) I care. I wouldn't do that.
Its all been good for a while now. There are no screws that are easily exposed from the outside. The two security screws on the bottom are not easy to get to, and they can't be removed that easily. It would take quite the racket to get it out at night. Would not be easy. There are quite a few cameras around so its been good so far.
Why is my local shop charging $200 for this?? Thank you so much! 10 min. video, 10 min. reading the Haynes, and $40 recharge kit has made me supermom today.
I don't have the Bluetooth one but why does it keep on saying connecting to Bluetooth how do you reset the TPMS on your car it just says connecting to BT but mine is not a Bluetooth
Hey there, its because the scanner needs the TPMS tool, and that tool is bluetooth, you have to buy it separately. The Launch bluetooth TPMS tool it not cheap. Same thing with the battery tester, you need the BST360, and that is bluetooth as well. For TPMS its just cheaper to get a TPMS specific tool that works with your car. See here amzn.to/3XU9txj you can see a lot of people bought that TPMS tool. Just search up the one that is right for your car.
Thanks for the detailed tutorial, saved me alot of time and expense, I'm sure I would have made a mistake without your help, ac is ice cold now, you're the best!
I don't think this is a particularly hard job to do. The good thing is there is not a lot you can screw up. Doing engine repairs etc. there is a lot to go on, but for this not too much, just take your time. I can't advise you to do anything, its up to you whether you feel comfortable doing it.
Thank you : ) You will see a three things on this channel, the car repairs, The Snap On flyer of the month (I love talking about tools) and some reviews.
Can you please help... My car BMW 2014 X3 F25 the Electric Water Pump Bleeding was working fine twice. Then, it stop after I used the Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealer. The Engine getting hot. So, I changed the Thermostat and clean out the Reservoir Tank. Same issue. Should I change the Water Pump? Is there fuse that I should check? I got 3 Codes: 1) CD9010 LIN, Message: Electric Coolant Pump: Missing. DTC Status: Current 2) 1A2004 Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Line Disconnection DTC Status: Current 3) 1A2002 Electric Fan, Actuating Wire: Short Circuit to Ground DTC Status: Current Please help :) Thank you & God Bless
Here is the video to replace the water pump if you need to ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K-JXuMHgVJE.html Now the first code is fine if your water pump failed, but I'm curious about the other two. If you changed the thermostat you would have taken the waterpump out so I'm wondering if you forgot to connect something fully and the plug wiggled out? I would check all your connections first. I can't see the Blue Devil sealer causing any problem but you never know. I tend to stay away from those sealers as they usually don't work long term, they are more of a temporary patch.
@@GarageKing BMW 2014 X3 F25 you can remove the Thermostat housing without removing the Electric Coolant Pump. I changed out the Thermostat thinking it got stuck close therefore my car running hot. I did clean out blue gel inside the reservoir tank completely.... (A new Reservoir Tank and Electric Coolant are on order). Do you know if there is a fuse to check?
@@mdang3662 You are right but, its still a fairly big job, most do both at the same time. Most times running hot is the water pump not circulating fast enough. I think there is a fuse, but you have to check your manual. I'm not sure where it is. Also if the fuse is blown you have to look at what caused the fuse to blow.
Yes it should, as long as its an 8th generation. Also for the coupe, the rear speakers are a little different to come out from what I have heard. Never did one, but I hear they come out a little differently. Same speakers.
Best video i found! Many 12a manufactures, RedTek or Ultra Cool, state on their cans DO NOT ADD ON VACUUMED SYSTEM. Would you have an explanation why they would put that? Another manufacturer, Duracool say can be added to fully vacuumed. This video is a keeper!
Hey There and thanks for the comment. I really have no idea why they would say that. Its quite strange and maybe there is a reason for it, but I can let you know I have done a lot or repairs, vacuumed the system, and then used 12a and they are all fine. It really does not make any sense because that would mean you can't use a 12a after a repair, because you always vacuum after a repair to get moisture out. I never noticed that warning from them, but I probably wasn't looking close enough LOL :)
