Thanks for the video. Have a prewired new build custom home that I'm considering using the 510 vs. the 310 on exterior walls. What model would you recommend based on your experience and feedback from customers? Watching your videos seems like the 510 is more robust in design and engineering. Any tricks mounting turret models on walls vs. ceilings? I like the lower profile of the turret vs. a bullet. Thanks again.
I appreciate that. Plus could you tell me what "year" did these great cameras come out and do these have a "mic to hear and talk thru" and can you "move the camera angles around" like turn it with your phone to see all around your area?
This series came out around 2017. No this model does not have a mic. No this is not a PTZ camera so you cannot move it around. The manufacturer makes both just not options in this series.
Hi Cleo, sorry for the late reply, if your board has been damaged for a while exposing the foam to the elements it will deteriorate. Just fill in the gap(s) left behind with filler. First repair job will be a bit of a learning experience (usually at what NOT to do), but don't fret, you will get better at it each time!
Yes, that is what we used, albeit it's more than necessary, but does the job. For this video we wanted to employ products you cold pickup quickly if you didn't have time to wait to find some typical 4 oz fiberglass (or 6 oz for longboards).
Hey Air Ron. Yes, that's tough even for experienced guys. Should be able to match the surface of the rest of your board if you gradually go from low grit (80/100/150) to high grit sand paper (220, 400) then finish it off with some 800/1000 wet dry. Feels counterintuitive to sand your board in order to smooth it out I know but give it a shot as I describe and you'll see the magic. If you've got a gloss coat (not a sanded finish coat) use some surfboard polish to give it back that shine. Matching tints can be done as well, we use resin tint from FoamEZ.
As we described you can pickup everything we employed in our video at your local hardware store. If you can plan ahead get more surfboard-oriented repair material through your local surf shop or online surf reseller (Greenlight, FoamEZ, etc)
Is it really nessecary to go through all these steps? Usually I'll just put suncure on a minor ding, let it dry and file it down the sandpaper. Is that enough? Or is it mandatory to use fiberglass cloth? What are the potential complications?
Suncure is great for minor dings, however the repair area in the video was not minor. If you have not done a repair job like the one in the video there will be a little learning curve, however it is not that hard to do, just go for it!
Thanks for the vid. have a nasty ding or 5 which i need to fix. However, I have to tell you, or the guy in this video: That epoxy is toxic shit, bro!!! Don't use your fingers like that. It's the hardener which is bad. It's a concentrated solution of free radicals which hardens the epoxy, and give you cancer. I don't know much about surfboard repair but I know chemistry.
and this is called old school bra....before leashes and 3 fins, they fixed em just like you guys.....(..tho I never did know about sugar.!!!)...thanx for the reminder on how many drops of hardener per oz. of resin....now I can go fix my SUP paddle blade...all busted up ....
right on Jack! The premise of the video is to make people aware of the fact that you can easily repair your own boards with stuff you already have lying around (ie. sugar). If you have the time and resources to get better filler, resin, etc that is great too!
buy q-cell www.foamez.com/qcel-repair-filler-4oz-p-325.html. Sugar seems like a terrible idea the whole point is to make the fill as light as possible. If its a large fill get a piece of foam from another board or a local shaper and cut it to fit in the hole. If you use styrofoam make sure you glass it with epoxy resin.
For sure Andrew Qcell is ideal. The point of the video though was to explain how to repair your board with simple hardware store, and in the case of granulated sugar, pantry ingredients. In the absence of Qcell sugar works just fine for small repairs. Good call on filling the hole with foam if you can for sure.
whats the filler? are those Q cells? if i dont have the "filler" can i use Resin + Sugar + harderner for the filling? i am repairing a small dislodged on the rail of my nose.
yes, just as we show in the video you can make your own filler out of sugar, resin, and hardener. Also as others here have pointed out there are other fillers that offer benefits over sugar...in the case of the video it was the filler we had available at the time and works well in a pinch.
a hot coat is a layer of resin applied to the laminated fiberglass, fills in the fiberglass "weave" where there may be gaps ensuring a solid fiberglass coat, smooth finish, and no leaks.
the resin you can buy at your local hardware store will have that tinge to it. We have not experimented with manipulating resin colors. Surfboard resin will dry clear.
Great video! One question: How long does everything need to dry before sanding and going to the next phase? So first the filler, then the fiberglass, and then the coat.
Thanks! Depends on the environment the repair cures in, if you read the specs on the resin it will give you dry times. The amt of hardener and filler you use will tweak that a little. And yes, as it pertains to this specific video, you have the steps in the correct order.
Yep, we know, point of the video though was how to quickly repair a board with items you might already have lying around. Clear resin would be ideal.We like the environmentally-friendlier (bio-based) Super Sap ONE resin + hardener.
DreamWarrior Depends on your preparation of the area you are repairing, clean it out, prep it with some sand paper so the resin has something to latch onto.
yea Im just going back and repairing a few small cracks less than an inch that were repaired poorly before. I dont think I need to use the fiberglass cloth cause they are so small but this is my first time repairing. thanks for answering, bud
DreamWarrior yup, cloth sounds overkill...remove a bit of the fiberglass and foam at the crack so the resin can fill in a bit and latch. Remember to make sure board is dry and repair in the shade!
(resp. by Levy Surf Designs) You can use that resin if it is a polyester board. If it is a epoxy you cannot. That resin comes out brown and your board will look like crap. Go to a surf shop and get a repair kit or a qt of resin. That will come out clear.
Yep you can use any resin, however the stuff you buy from hardware stores is normally going to dry brown and might be a little heavier than resin specific to surfboard repair.
So, if I wanna, or im forced to, save money, what are the consequences of using the brown, marine resin instead of the clear one; here where I live the clear stuff is rather expensive. Thanks.
Two last questions: How many parts of filler, resin, and hardener work best? And what exactly is "hardener" called in a hardware store and where should I look for it? This video is perfect. Going to try it out this weekend and will share results.
Review the video from :55-1:30 and I think that will answer your questions. We found our resin and hardener in our local hardware store and the filler (sugar) in our pantry. You can also ask for Q-Cell in your local surf shop if you would rather not use sugar...however we found sugar gives your surfing that extra "jolt" ( ; Yep, let us know how it turns out!
EPOXY NOTE: You can fix a poly board with epoxy, but you can't fix a epoxy board with poly cause you will melt the Styrofoam. Epoxy takes a lot longer to do and cost more. So if it is not a epoxy there is no need in using it. Most boards will say on them if they are epoxy. We may come out with an Epoxy repair vid soon, sorry!
Thanks a lot, the best video I came across for this job and super satisfied having done a good few rounds of the repair today. Good on ya for making such a clear and concise guide!
For this vid we used items that can be found by most at home and at popular hardware stores: - resin (all will work, clear is better, surfboard rez is best) - resin hardener - household sugar - fiberglass - 40, 100, 150, 220 grit sandpaper, 220 wet dry sandpaper (300/400 for gloss finish) - plastic cup - brush to apply resin mix - masking tape - utility knife - scissors - popsicle sticks - acetone/paint thinner to clean your brush - someone here mentioned using gloves for additional safety
(resp. by Levy Surf Designs) Solarez works great. Good to fill with. Don't forget to sand it flush. After that you shoud put a layer of cloth over it and sand that in so it won't crack. Just Solarez or quick fix by it's self will crack after a while.
Awesome vid, i have a crack ini my board of about 2 inches, how would I repair this? Would I still need to do everything in the video? A friend of mine mentioned Solarez, would that work?
EPOXY NOTE: You can fix a poly board with epoxy, but you can't fix a epoxy board with poly cause you will melt the Styrofoam. Epoxy takes a lot longer to do and cost more. So if it is not a epoxy there is no need in using it. Most boards will say on them if they are epoxy.
(resp. by Levy Surf Designs) Most boards will say "epoxy" on them. If not epoxy cut the broken glass with a razor knife then sand around it a little & make a "dam" with some masking tape. Mix up some resin+hardener+household sugar & pour it in the dam. After it hardens sand flush with board. Put 2 layers of cloth and resin & let it harden. Sand it in level with board. Then tape off and put a final coat of resin on, let it harden. Sand with 150 sandpaper then 220 then 320 & polish it if need be.
