The problem of dragon is is there is no RTL 1090 or dump 1090 software😊

See my video on Andy's ham radio Linux. It's much better.

I just find the solution for the menu , click super "window" + R

I see the installation its very hard 😢

That was my conclusion in the video

This antenna does not work well. It's poorly designed.

Palomar engineering has a page on recommended mixes for frequency ranges. There's a table part way down the right column is wideband transformers and it looks like they would recommend a type 43 or 52. So I guess I would go with 43. palomar-engineers.com/ferrite-products/ferrite-cores/ferrite-mix-selection

Nice video by the way. Thanks for sharing

Yep, when it comes to weights and measures the US is kind of a third world country. I do all my 3D modeling in metric, much easier to think in base 10.

If you have the schematic, I'd start tracing the audio signal from the detector on through the audio amp stages until you find where it's not being amplified. Just a thought, is the squelch turned up? Oh, also, I don't remember if it has an headphones or external speaker jack, but sometimes those get dirty and don't pass the signal on to the speaker with nothing plugged in to them. Those are my guesses.

Yes it also worked fine.

I'd be a little more worried about the transmitter. You want to just avoid arcing in the first place because that kickback can cause extremely high spikes in SWR and possibly damage the finals on the radio. So it's best just to keep the power at safe levels.

Most common local noise sources are switching power supplies. Like those little wall transformers that will plug in to charge devices. If your noise is local, put your radio on a battery and turn off your breakers in the house. If the noise goes away, turn them on one at a time until the noise comes back and then you know which circuit to look at to find the noise source.

Happy to hear you've had success and made lots of stuff.

For the best efficiency, the coupling loop needs to be positioned where the magnetic field is the strongest, and the capacitor needs to be positioned where the electrical field is the strongest. Which are at opposite sides of the loop. I've no doubt yours works, but it is probably quite inefficient. In a good magnetic loop the bandwidth should only be about 4 to 6 kilohertz due to its very high Q. What's your bandwidth? If it's broad, it's inefficient. Which pumping high power into it would mask. I hope you're not sitting too close to the loop by the way, they create huge magnetic fields even at low powers.

@@loughkb can,t be too bad, worked 4 continents from patio at less than 100w, design from RSGB book 15 years ago.

@@macreynolds4377 I've worked several continents from my kitchen with 2 1/2 watts. Like I said, putting power into it is masking it. Bandwidth will tell the tale. Sweep it with a VNA

Yes. That doesn't change the 'experimental' nature of their modulation technique or the quality of the modulated signal.

except for those using the free version, then onshape owns anything you create and it's visible to others. Tinkercad is private unless you choose to make it public, I mean they still own whatever you make but at least you can hide in a see of private files I guess..

Also the "tinkercad gets things a little off" issue is with copy/pasting. Its muscle memory for me to drag a solid after pasting it so it snaps to current constraints. If you don't, sometimes it will be off by anywhere from a 1/100th to 1/2 mm. So always drag/snap after paste :)

Thanks, I had not noticed that. The next time I build something in tinkercad I'll remember that. Although I'm starting to play around more with free CAD, going to try to get over the learning curve so I have a nice offline solution.

You left out the steps of trying to remember which of those 40 to 50 little icons does what, and all those dozens of menus. *Wink* Anything is always easiest in the program you're most familiar with. I've designed stuff in free CAD, in on shape, tinkercad, and blender. There's a lot of people that like tinkercad, they are the target audience for this video.

When you finish your experiments let us know the result.

Yep, I've done some of that myself. I have an SO239 and an Anderson power poles cut out up on my thingiverse page that I made in tinker. You can also add those objects to a collection called My designs in the shape selector over on the right. So if you're making something and you need to reference one of your cutouts, it's right there.

Yeah the only problem though is, it universally smooths things, using all edges of the shape. You quickly lose control of dimensions, and you don't have control over any individual edge. So a box ends up rounded on the bottom. But it can be fun for making organic shapes that you're going to paste into something else.

Bambu labs, Anycubic, or Prusa. They're more like appliances, less fiddling required.

Yes and no. Mirror doesn't work like you're thinking it works in other CAD programs. In tinkercad you'd make a copy of the object and then use the mirror tool to flip that object to a mirror image. Then you'd have to move it into place.

Many people that get into 3D printing don't have the time patients or perhaps skill to learn a full-on CAD program. Tinkercad fills a gap, makes creating models for printing accessible to the less technically minded.

No special part number for the LED. Any LED should work. You just want to make sure you get a white one.

No. It is not. At least it depends on the user. Wahts' your IQ? I did not bad when I was a youngster. I'm probably older than you are, by chance two or even three times your age. Years ago I tried it on a German maker space at Ingenieur Hochschule Wildau next to Berlin. I'm an avid user of Tinkercad. It pulls me haires, m times, esp. when the servers become unresponsively.

Somebody else was having that problem and it turns out they were pasting in the dollar sign at the beginning instead of starting with the sudo

@@loughkb Yes I noticed that. The first line to copy from the chirp site is not as long as in the video. I ran that and the install-chirp line but it just says error. I may throw the Baofeng out of the window ha ha ....

Actually, I just did my first ever TPU prints last night. Neat stuff.

@@loughkb There are some videos here of people testing it for small engine gaskets. It won't make an exhaust gasket, lol, but it surprising the heat and fuel it will tolerate.