Good to see how things work and how to fix them. They do make replacement gears and wheels for most sweepers but if you weld, save some $$!! The reason the gears and parts wear out prematurely for most if basically because they are pulling them too fast. A 4 wheeler is too fast. If you go slower, the sweeper lasts longer and does a much better job.
Thank you very much for the video. I just bought a new model (though they look somewhat the same) with a dethatcher in the front. I am currently putting the dethatched together to attach it to the sweeper. I put the sweeper together as well neither of them prove to be too hard to do. I'm glad to know about the potential problem with the sweeper later on. Really good to know information. I'm glad you were able to figure it out for not only you but all the rest of us as well. Thank you thank you thank you for sharing!
Biggest issue with these is the wheels skid across the yard if they don’t have enough traction; ie a wet yard. Raising the wheel level helps. A good starting point is when you’re on blacktop that the rear of the basket is 5-7 inches off the ground. You can take the wheels off and lube the shafts to help as well and obviously make sure nothing like a rope is caught in the brushes. I did all that and still had issues with my crappy worn plastic wheels skidding across the yard especially on longer grass or like I said before if it’s slightly damp or wet. The healthier and thicker the lawn the more it usually skids. Since you can’t replace the wheels with different tread I am thinking of installing a bunch of screws in the tires and aerate my yard at the same time. Anyone else have any helpful suggestions to keep it from skidding so much?
I cut the sidewalls out of a couple of 10-inch tyres and then stretch the tread over the original wheel. Secure the tread to the wheel using some self-tapping screws in the tread wells. Could also add some weights to the front but I suspect that will increase wear on the wheel bushes.
I have a Craftsman from the late 80's. I paid around $300 for it. I noticed the brushes are thinner and the products today look to be made zs cheap possible. The hampers eventually rot and tear near the top on either sides from the stress of heavy loads. My grass has think broad stems that hold the water from the first sping growths. My land is next 2 large farms. The grass may need cutting every 4 days in the early part of the season which settles down as the summer continues if it is a normal season, but you can never rely on it. The sun and several wet days when I left it outside overnight plays havoc on the delicate designs 7:42
Awesome video tutorial! I have a 2005 Polaris TrailBoss 330 and I really appreciate any DIY stuff for it. I did the front bushings and rear brakes last year. Looking forward to your front brake replacement as thats next on the list for me.
Hi Andy great video nicely explained the problem and the fix, appreciate the effort you went to to overcome what seems like a common problem,thanks very much from Australia
Yup..that’s exactly what mine is doing. Mine is still within 90 days though so I may return it, though it was a bitch to put it all together. It got an agri fab from Lowes. Should I call agri fab and see if they’ll just replace the gears for me or return the whole thing? Honestly I only used it 4 times before it started doing this, but I’m thinking I was beating on it by going too fast and forcing it to pick up everything by setting it too low..
You mentioned while dismantling the cv-joint ( birfield joint) from the axle shaft that you had to remove the inner c-clip you didn't show how you removed the c-clip. I have done 50-60 of these over the years and I be very curious to know how you got access to the c-clip and remove it prior to removing the the axle shaft. Good video though.
Wrong Grease, nothing tightened to spec, greased not packed in to the CV properly, wheel bearings adjusted by hitting a screwdriver with a hammer. Great entertainment. 😉
"don't be lazy" lol ...man that was rough and so wrong. After seeing the condition of the existing grease, you should have rebuilt the entire knuckle, on both sides. That is someone's (your father's) front end, I hope he's ok.
I like this kind of fix.while i enjoy seeing FedEx, UPS or Amazon show up in my driveway with parts,i cant stand the wait.if i have the tools to rig something up and get to use my equipment today,then that's my preferred method!thanks for sharing this info!
I have a 1998 Sienna. Mechanic says the differential needs to be changed but haven't done it before. Could you email me with suggestions please or help. Thanks Denice. denicelady3@gmail.com
Great video its been a while 2015 never done a birfield your stub axle needs grease your bearing that disc needs to do one spin min max youve got the wieght of the car and wheel not tight enough. always learning me.
