Brilliant and thanks for explaining the purpose of the spacers since I got blue and black one's and wasn't sure if they were used for the same thing, windows come with no instructions! I don't have the tools so I'll carefully use a kitchen knife or stanley knife to prise open the beading.
Could you put expaning foam around the window first to hold it firm before putting the screws in? The reason I ask is that I've removed the old frame from an outside garage window and it didn't have a lental and so the bricks above have moved, they haven't fell but I'm thinking if I drill first it might upset them and cause a problem but if I firm the window as much as possible with foam it's less likely to happen. Thanks
Great video, just replaced the glazing in a window after putting it off for the last 6 weeks. Took half an hour all in. Would’ve been quicker if I had someone to push the glass through for me, that bit was a bit hairy!
All very well and easy if you have the uPVC plastic strips to remove the upstairs windows from the inside. It's obvious what you need to do. But what about when it's a rubber seal and you have the plastic strips outside! Can't access the glass to bring it in side.Useless video.
Great video,simple,direct, and informative. I've broken 2 glazed units trying to fit the beading, too aggressive with the mallet. Now, my current project should be easy peasy
Ermmm, nope. Almost all uPVC windows in the UK are beaded on the inside (as per the video), meaning only the internal beading is removable. The outside of the frame might look similar to the inside but it's a solid entity i.e. non-removable.
I'd have picked a different window to demonstrate this procedure.... the pvc architraves fitted around that window are fitted atrociously... left hand side where the tiles finish & meet the painted part of the reveal & bottom right, the unfinished cappit/reveal liner end is not good workmanship by any stretch. Please tell me that it's somebody elses handy work?
Easy instruction but should always put the bottom beading in first it holds the unit down onto the packers when the top beading is being located also for any diy folks it’s helps if you lube the beading gasket as this stops resistance on the glass.
It is well worth removing the pane and checking where water is getting in. Often it’s the rubber seals that need changing. I did a recent video here addressing these things for interest: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rc5DutkQ0WM.html
It is well worth removing the pane and checking where water is getting in. Often it’s the rubber seals that need changing. I did a recent video here addressing these things for interest: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rc5DutkQ0WM.html
Proper English sh** construction and standard of windows fitting. No sealing tape from in and outside, using wrong expanding foam, drilling in windows frame insted of use window anchors. OMG my eyes hurt when look at it. 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Question ,,if a frame is e,g, 1000 mm x 1000 mm ,,whar size of pane do you order ,,995 x 995 or 990 x 990 ? What gap should you have ? Hope this makes sense, im a DIYr only 👍