Hey man I dont know if you will see this comment or reply but if you do that would be greatly appreciated. I have a 2002 yz426f and i cant figure out whats wrong with it. The bike will run but only when pulled by a truck. it refuses to bump start for a small hill and there is absolutely 0 chance it will start for a kick. I could sit there kicking it for 20 minutes if i wanted to and the thing wont even cough. not too sure whats wrong with it or what to do next. heres the things that i have done/checked on it I started with giving it a good carb clean and rebuilding the carb so thats out of the way checked the valve clearances and they were all in the middle of there specs. they were perfect Bike seems to have more then enough compression to run since I can jump on the kick starter and it wont move unless i use the decomp Engine should be in time as far as cams go too. i had a really hard time lining up the exhaust cam for some reason but i think its good enough to run? other symptoms that this bike has is a rough idle. constantly rising and dropping rpms sometimes it will just die at idle. it hates to do that. it doesnt have a nice smooth idle like yours does. And the other symptom this bike gives me is getting hot quick. not sure if thats just a 426 thing but from a cold start the engine is warm in about a minute of idle, and also if i let it idle for a minute after cruising it around the yard a bit it will start dumping coolant out of the overflow. If you reply that would be greatly appreciated. any pointers are good. Im just so lost with this thing right now I dont know what to do.
@@user-eg4lb2wj4f I had the same problem with another bike. Wouldn't start u less you pulled it with a truck to bomb start. Turns out to be cam timing. Exhaust cam was 1 tooth retarded. Caused a lot of problems including a brused foot from kicking so much
@@buggymanandhistoys6476 Thanks for the reply. I feel like it could be cam timing still but im not sure. when i first checked the cam positions it looked like the exhaust cam was off 1 tooth. this is also when the bike would backfire like crazy. so i moved it 1 tooth counter clockwise and no more backfiring but still no kickstart. im wondering if its possible that it could be doing this because of a bent woodruff key? maybe enough to make it run weird but not broken like yours was? or maybe the flywheel magnet has damage making it fire wierd? im not 100% sure anymore. could be right about the cam timing though. no matter what i do i cant line up the dots on the exhaust cam perfectly. almost like the gear slipped on the camshaft.
@@user-eg4lb2wj4f woodruff keys don't bend, they sheer and cam gears are bolted to the cam. It's gonna be timing. Pull out inspection plug and line the flywheel mark up with cam marks.
@@user-eg4lb2wj4f I had another thought too. If it turns out your cam timing is correct, have you checked your valve clearances? Over time the valves in these heads sink which tightens your valve clearances. These engines are very picky about that. A few thou outta speck can cause a no start as well
@@buggymanandhistoys6476 yep. valve clearances were all in spec and right in the middle of the specs. all intakes measured at 0.13mm and both exhaust valves measured at 0.23mm so those are fine
Channel is 4 years old and I've only got 455 subs. I need a hell of alot more subs to put more effort into the editing. I already have a full time job that take up all my time
Weird my rear diff has a spring in the cuppler what ever it's called. My sld blew apart putting it back together is a pain..is it supposed to be super tight so it doesn't move?
Wouldn’t line restrictions help with keeping pads from backing off rotor as a caliper doesn’t have preset drag like drums so any chatter or flex would start to retract the piston. You may be doing drums as that looks like a vw bug buggy and I seriously don’t know what keeps fluid from returning too much resulting in brake grab I just remember from high school auto class 20 years ago that pads should glide or rub lightly on disc or jerking results from hydraulic pressure ramming pads into disc.
Drum brakes have all those springs to help return pads to neutral so you shouldn't need any static line pressure. You may be thinking of disk/drum setups where you need a proportional valve to keep a bit of line pressure on the drums. This is 4 wheel drum setup. The problem is when the rubber line is really old like the one in the video from the mid 60's, it will swell constricting that line to a point where when you hit the brakes, it will allow fluid though but not return resulting in a brake hanging up and not releasing when you release the petal.
Looking for a mechanical part break down on the hydraulic gear shirt. For a 2000 bombardier. Trexter 500cc.. mostly covering the solenoid valve spools. Curious if there are spring in both of the valve spools.
Hi how did you go about getting the flywheel off when taking this engine apart? Currently trying to rebuild a 1989 and it’s totally seized on. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Please describe the noise that you speak of coming from the transmission. I have a 4X and it has a chinging noise when I back off the accelerator and coast. Sounds like something related to the drive shaft. BTW, I’m in the process of rebuilding my rear differential and found your video to be very helpful. Thank you. I just have to hope that I can get the parts I need, including the case. The pinion small nose bearing went and broke the bearing housing out.
It's hard to describe but in a nut shell, yes sounded like a rumble, rattle clanking sound. Initially I blamed the wheel bearings (which I did find out were bad as well) as you could also feel it in the steering wheel. Under power it wound not make any noise but under coast it was awful
The engine shop that repaired and honed the jug, also got me the piston. He usually checks the gap for me too but I did my own check off camera before assembling
I was always told to keep the tapers dry, otherwise the is some hydraulic resistance and it will never tighten down to correct spec. ??? I'm not an expert.
Never heard of expansion holes in a piston before(had to go back and check twice if i heard correctly) . Please explain how it/they work. Always eager to learn new things.
Just in theory with out the power valve connected to the govenor in The motor the machine will not turn on right? Just hella low compression? Just a question 01 kx125
The power valve has nothing to do with compression. If you connect a compression tester to the bike. You will get the 100% same results with the powervalve connected or not connected. So the bike will "turn on" and start with the PW not connected. The bike will even be fully rideable. You will just lose some power on the top end.
I have a 13 and after 10 years i finally have it reliable. I've never had reverse gear issues but it ate belts. I got the updated TLC and a Team secondary and now my center to center is spot on and belt issues are gone. Only thing good about the 1100 is the motor with a TD tune its big power.
The axles they use for these years are pretty weak. He brought it back a few weeks after with a grenaded CV joint. He got stuck and just pinned it 🤣. Ka-bang!!!. Keeps me busy 🤣
That is a genius use for torch cleaners, I was wondering how I was going to get into that connection. Thanks for the amazing tip!! And for saving me money on buying a new horn
