A builder for over 40 years, join resident idiot Foxx as he builds gunpla, Warhammer (and any other kits that take his fancy) and plays THE VIDJAGAMEZ between bench sessions. Visit www.modelmakingguru.com for galleries, builds, writeups and more!
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Very nice video! Cant believe its 8 years old haha. Is this still one of the better trigger airbrushes out there? I want to get one myself as i am struggling with a normal type of airbrush.
@@gurufoxx Very tempted to pick one up! I saw some good ones from Gaahleri as well but I've always been told that Iwata's quality is just a whole other level than these chinese new brands haha. Thank you for the quick reply!
I'm afraid this was almtos a decade ago so my memory is a little fuzzy :D However, I filmed a more up-to-date version when I built the Perfect Grade Falcon which will give you much more information in detail, and you can see the ENTIRE weathering process and what oil and enamel paints I used in one single video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4-xMM1N-KmA.html
There already is one :) All my video series are in Playlists, I am very fussy about giving those to the viewers and channels without them drive me nuts! Sadly RU-vid is crap about actually making them easily findable for viewers :( You can find the Eagle playlist here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TfYk-pJHl0Q.html And all my other playlists here: www.modelmakingguru.com/videos.html
This is kind of how i built it but i deviated further still from the immensely silly official instruction manuals order of doing things.. I only used the middle wall as a guide while i added the rear panels to one side the floor and only dry/friction fitted the top and other side of the hull. I can reach all the areas with a brush easily without weird brush yoga lol and the middle wall is removeable till its finished painting. Interior will be getting some scratchbuilt details added to the walls to make it look more viking longboat ish. This is a kit that while it looks easy and has good design might annoy a beginner. Luckily im not a beginner and quite familiar with the common migraine inducing headaches that often accompany aircraft kits 🐺
Can I ask if you plan to continue the videos on this model? I just placed my order for the first issues and they just confirmed it yesterday! Pretty exited to get crackin on the build since I didn’t get the chance to last time.
@@gurufoxx heck yeah glad to hear it! Quick question for ya I’m sure you’ve heard of the mod but are you planning on doing the xmas tree mod and flux capacitor mod? But thanks for the reply I’ll keep an eye out for the upload man!
Im 6 years late..... But anyway mega couldn't do numberd bags back then because lego had a patent on numbered bags so it they legally couldn't. And acctually mega construx now uses numberd bags as the patent has expired in 2018 or they found another way to use it (i found two stories after looking it up but i already heard about the patent expiring story).
Warning I subscribed for the 1/8 GT40. I received 14 months subscriptions then they stopped arriving but still was charged. I reached out to DeAgostini several times over the past few months. Their response they’re working on it. Still no resolution
I am planning on building an F-117A Nighthawk, and I was thinking of doing something like this, to pick out those different panels, but then I'm here thinking: if I'm using acrylics only, perhaps a very thinned layer of black over the preshading would make it even more subtle? Or the water and the paint would totally ruin the preshading? I am a bit scared that the water might end up diluting the preshading into the paint and turning it into an absurd mess later on.
In all honesty, I think airbrushing would give much better results for something like an aircraft: this drybrushing technique does impart a very subtle texture and is great for rugged armour or weathered vehicles where you'll be adding grime or dirt and you can be a bit rough around the edges. For sleek, well-maintained aircraft and such I think it would possibly look a bit crunchy and airbrushing a primer layer, a pre-shade line layer and then building up the the fuselage colour would make much more sense.
@@gurufoxx I have no airbrush 😭 doing everything with a set of brushes I have. I was thinking of starting with a base black paint, doing some spotting with diluted white paint, letting it dry and then adding a very fine layer of diluted black paint on top. Alternatively, while building an 1/72 Abrams earlier last month, I found out that heavily diluted water-based correction fluid (stuff used to cover up pen mistakes) did give me a lighter finish. Story goes as this: Italeri 1/72 M1 Abrams model set from 2009. Paints inside only really give one option, which is the desert camouflage used in the Gulf War. Armor Sand paint is somehow too dark, as if it was mixed with something else. After painting the whole model with it, I had the brilliant idea of diluting the correction fluid with a few drops of tap water and brushing it all over the model, which lightened the color a bit.
@@choppergunner8650 Heh. that's interesting about the correction fluid. That's the best way to discover new techniques - try random stuff out and see what happens :) Your method of using glazes over the black base might work but it would take many many coats, I suspect, and the risk of overall painting with water-thinned paints are tidemarks and other weird effects that water creates when it breaks up the paint binders. But, if you have an old junker kit you can test it on, give it a try for sure. Thinking about it, dry-brushing *might* work but you would need to make sure you use a very soft dry brush, and maybe restrict the shading to the back base and then a dry-brushed off black. That way you would not have *too much* paint build up and might avoid texture. And then once that's done, add a glaze of a dark blue or dark grey colour - like, a massively thin glaze - just to tint the surface a tiny bit and even out the dry brush coats. Again, if you have a junker model, do some tests on that to see what happens :)
@@gurufoxx thank you! Here in Brazil, while modellers love to use putty to cover large gaps, correction fluid can be used to cover very small areas such as wing joints or small gaps in tank armor. So it essentially works like filler too! All you gotta do is run a damp cotton bud across it to wipe off the excess and also smooth it down, if the area is too difficult to work on, or you can simply smooth it down with a file on flat surfaces. It's honestly amazing what people come across when on a money shortage, as modelling tends to be much more expensive here than in America, Europe or Japan.
I just recently started watching and have subscribed to your channel. I was very impressed with your skills and weathering on the Millennium Falcon. I’m in the process building the DeAgostini Millennium Falcon and looking to do the weathering on it as well, the colors of paints you used to get the effect are really nice. Could you be so kind to share those colors you used on your Bandai 1:72 Perfect Grade, this would be very helpful and greatly appreciate 🙏🏽
I'm afraid this was filmed several years ago now and I have long since forgotten the specifics of the project. However, I do call out and discuss list all the paints used as I go along in each episode, so if you have not watched the full series from build to finish, here is the playlist: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1KdiU3AkINU.html
Hey, thanks for the vid! Very helpful as I've got myself a lot of models stripped! I just have a quick question - do you know what would happen if the dettol dries on the model? Call it paranoia but I would hate to miss that there's still some paint on the model and go to dry it off and cause the goopiness you mentioned. If you're not sure though then no worries
Honestly I have never left it on to dry out like that so I am not sure. It would certainly smell nice lol. As long as you have scrubbed off the majority of the paint and at worst only tiny specks remain here and there in nooks and crannies you won't get the goopies when you rinse it under the water tap :)
Honestly, with Bandai plastic I would not take the risk. if you need to remove mekki plating from parts (that silver or gold plating they do) then an over cleaner is much safer (I use Oven Bright which is a gel). As Dettol contains alcohol I am not sure that it would be safe on Bandai plastics.
