Great video very thorough. I am thinking of doing this to a junkyard rack I bought to replace my worn one currently in my car. The issue I am having seems to be on both racks but on the shaft or rod (not sure all the terminology) that has threads on both sides for each inner tie rod when they are being tightened or looseneds the rod in the rock itself rotates slightly with it.. maybe about a 1/4" or less. It takes a great deal of force to do this but I am not sure if this can shift more easily when the vehicle is on the ground. Or is this even a big concern? Ultimately I am trying to figure out why the car is unstable at high speeds and seems to have a lot of steering play going over bumpy roads. Feels as if the wheels are kind of wandering a very small amount. Most of the suspension components around the rack are all new such as control arms, swaybar links, shock absorber etc. The rack is probably the only thing unchanged in the front end that has bearings and the sway bar itself.
I don't think anything from your tie rod to rack should ever rotate. It should only be side to side motion. That's very dangerous. I'd look into it if I ever you.
So, he strips & repaints the outside, whooped-dee-doo: what did he do to “restore” the inside which is where true tank restoration counts? I’m growing more gray hairs waiting . . .
Interesting that as soon as I found your wide guard video's this popped up. Very tidy install mate. I brought the original kit from Chasebays and the fittings do leak/weep. After speaking with Chasebays, it seems that they wont admit fault but do advise the hoses have been redesigned using different fittings. My only option was to buy the new kit minus the reservoir...and then the interest rates hit in Australia and I couldn't afford it anymore. Its a good kit (and no one else offers this kind of kit for an aging chassis) but I wish they would have helped out a bit more with a known issue. Now I have cardboard under my car in the garage and have to check the fluid level before I drive.
Ive just started stripping my 180SX in Australia and this material is amazing. Great to see someone putting in the effort to do it right whilst also teaching others. Very keen on the metal widebody and after a decent trawl, I found your Zilvia link... I know you have UM 1.5" on the front and I read somewhere that you have 2" on the back...for the life of me though I cant find the measurements...all I find is "they are custom to my liking"... If you are still around and see this, could you please pass us the specs? Im sure it would be of great benefit to the Silvia community (and me)!
I honestly cannot answer that for you. I can see a one way valve would be beneficial. The valve must allow proper flow without any restriction though. In a scenario where the valve fails, your engine won't be happy. I haven''t seen one way valve for alot of Japanese engine set up tbh. My oil cooler and oil filter relocation sits lower than the original oil filter housing so it will always be fill of oil even after the engine is turn off. Hopefully this will help ya!
@@JohnnieIsBored Yes of course! As long as the tap doesnt break inside! Theres taps for starting, bottom out or in between. It all depends how deep you have to tap @JohnnieIsBored
Question, what is the tool you used to sand and shape the inside edges ! Looks like a tiny belt sander? That would make life so much easier. Thanks for any reply
I’m currently about to start building the same one. I made the mistake of getting a quote from Metal Supermarket. It was OUTRAGEOUS…especially since some of the smaller lengths can be ordered from Amazon with minor cutting. Thanks for the video! I’m the type that needs to see an actual completed product. Some of the lengths and decisions had me questioning clearance and operation.
Hey man. I went with super market at the time cause I paid premium for them to cut it. Basically material cost was double. If I went to my local metal supplier, I could of gotten the material for 60-65% less. Also, my second video on the rotisserie, I had to modify it for more clearance when moving the "T" piece that mounts to the car. Instead of some triangle gussets, I just welded more passes for strength. The gussets prevented me from moving the piece up more for balancing the 240.
Beveled edge would definitely add more strength but a 6mm weld fillet at 1" long with this mig welding wire allows it to gave about 40000 psi tensile pull. More than enough 😊
This is what I need to do, Cuz My 200sx had a problem where the wires get old and start breaking apart..., im still new in these electrical stuff, might be risky, will you list down the parts for the wire mod? 😢
The electrical bulk head is called" Radium Engineering Electrical Bulkhead Stud Kit - 6 Pack ". You will have to add in that plate of metal to meet the height required for those plastic insert or try another way to fill in that gap.
If I have access to cheaper material then I would build it. It works great. Ended up selling my rotisserie to another fella for $1400. Some folks that built this, got material for around $300.
Hey man. Unfortunately it did cost me a bit cause I paid premium price for metal super market to cut all to size. Some folks in Usa got the material for under $300 to build this. Depends on your source. If I got whole length steel from varsteel. It would be alot cheaper for sure. This is just a educational video :)
These bolts are your generic : 6mm x1.0 Grade 10.9 bolts. Varies from 12mm, 15mm, 20mm long. Zinc coated! I just bought boxes of 100. It's fairly cheap.
@@julienchardon9101 yes that is possible but your oil cooler should be clean! If it's clean to begin with, it shouldn't put any debris in the engine. I installed it base on the recommendation from the company that supplied it. If you put the filter after your oil cooler , then that means unfiltered oil can potentially build up in your oil cooler, we don't want that.
This is great! I have an '85 S12 with a crusty hanger and tank. These pump hangers are impossible to find in good shape and there's no aftermarket. I'm likely to do something like this soon.
I've been watching since the beginning, looks like it's coming along great. I'm planning a new build, but I'm having trouble sourcing an RB for less than the price of a house. Are they cheaper in Canada?
@@240Tony I'm in Maine on the border with St Stephen New Brunswick. Prices on this side of the river will set you back more than $10000 USD for a RB26DETT, and I'm looking at a RB25DET right now for $8K.
RB26DETT is crazy now since GTR price went nuts. Rb25dett you can find out of many options but still need to source a manual Transmission and that's pricey also.
@@240Tony Yeah, problem is here the cars those engines were available in were illegal for a very long time. Now that the first R34's are becoming legal in the states the prices are flying high, franchise films didn't help either. I'm going to use a T56 from Tremec and an adapter plate from Australia. They have all the goods.
My inside wasn't rusted so I never touched it. There's products out there that can treat the inside of your gas tank, I personally never used those products before.
