Hahaha cool! I had the normal Vapor (FPV) second hand for a couple of weeks and flew high alpha in the office :P But I broke it a couple of times and got rid of it.
@@trevorfurlotte hahaha I got mine second hand for indoor flying but the fuselage “one carbon rod” was broken so I repaired it. But then I broke the prop adapter trying a looping without too much altitude indoors. Than I fixed it a bit but lost interest and sold it to get the money back, what was good :)
i REALLY wish you when over shocks more. clearly you have very different setups. almost looks like buggy shocks on the carpet setup, at least the front.
who makes a pro4 truck thats already set up for carpet. all the ones i looked at are for dirt. How much money does it cost to turn a dirt truck into a carpet warrior?
@douglasedmonds8372 modern stadiums are closer to carpet truck than dirt trucks. All it takes is tires, springs, oil, gear diff and anti-sway bars. Couple of hundred bucks probably.
@waynemiller6070 pretty easy covering job except for the curve at the vertical fin that follows the same lines as the original. The rest is just paint and decals.
Looks awesome, I help run a track in Potlatch, ID ... Palouse River RC ... we have a sign, and post once in a while in the town's community page, which helps somewhat keep them at bay, but kids on bikes love piles of dirt... lol Place looks really nice, cheers
My first RC car kit had a mechanical speed controller without a BEC so I ended up using both the servos as well as the battery box that came with my Futaba Attack II. The JRX Pro was my first race-grade RC car as well. I wanted an RC10 and it would have been the sensible choice as there was local support for it but a new kit was too expensive so I got a used Team Losi instead. I also think the JRX was the superior car and the old gold pan had been obsolete since the turn of the decade but TA had the best drivers and the cars were modified heavily to keep winning. In 1995, they created something that became even more successful for a longer time (I count the B3 and B4 as iterations of the same car) even if it doesn’t have the iconic status of the OG. So Asso came back with a buggy that was modern and competitive out of the box. I got back into RC after a long hiatus and I’m driving Team Associated cars now: the B74.2 and an RB10 that I built from a DR10 kit and equipped with a Penguin B4 Repo body. I remember my JRX Pro and ’94 YZ-10 with great fondness but I have no interest in hunting for expensive NOS stuff with a constant worry about breaking something I can’t replace with reasonable effort so the RB10 is retro enough for me. If you sent one 25 years back in time people wouldn’t blink an eye, they would think it’s just a metric experimental B2/B3 from Asso. If you sent a B74.2 back in time people wouldn’t know which way to look at it and who even made the damn thing. The rivalry between Team Associated and Team Losi reached the ass-end of Europe as well. In the ’90s, the local way of pronouncing it was ”Team Lousy”. Sadly, I didn’t have the skills and resources to fully exploit the potential of the JRX Pro so I was never able to prove them wrong.
Awesome!. She came out great and I really enjoyed watching all 5 parts lol. As soon as I seen the part 1 of the restore I was instantly hooked and had to watchem all considering that the Big Brute was also my first hobby grade RC purchased in '88-'89 not exactly sure but I still have it today and it still run it here and there, and strangely enough too I have the same Diamond tires that you have on yours because my original set pretty much melted and rotted and its so hard to find the original Bridgestone chevron style tires.Those Chevrons just completed the look tho , it just gives it that original monster jam truck look. It has that special bond with it and I can never see myself getting rid of it , there's just something your first hobby grade RC and one that we had to build!! Lol not like the RTR's you can buy today. 😂.. ✌
@trevorfurlotte Thanks, I'm driving a team associated car that I bought used, and I have made zero changes. But it seems to handle pretty well, actually. The only thing I've changed is adding slicks, I put on some smoothie 2 silvers, and that was a massive difference. It sticks to the track like velcro with them .
I know this is an old video but I like the work you did with this and mentioning the RB10. I grew up on rear motor cars, including the original RC10 and I prefer this format to the mid motor cars of today. Anyway, I do race my RB10 quite competitively and at least for my tracks I find the gear differential with heavier fluids works much better than the older ball diffs and they last longer too. I did upgrade the shocks to B6.4 shocks, upgraded the servo and radio but I have been running the 3200kv Reedy motor and SC that came stock and it’s been really good. Plus parts availability are great due to the shared platforms. Thanks
@@trevorfurlotte You think those RCs you have are going to be a problem? I thought for sure that my servo would've been toast for sitting for almost 30 years and locked up or whatever but no, everything works great. I picked up a new speed controller, radio and battery and it's amazing 🤩 I really need to get some new tires though. This rubber is so hard.
@TeeDohJackson i think everything will be fine. I have a couple of vintage radios, chargers, ESC's. So far, all are fine. My runners always get new brushless stuff though
@@trevorfurlotte I'm still running the old brushed motor I put in from the mid 90's but it's insanely fast and way faster than I remember it. Do you think that since I upgraded from the Nickel CAD battery to a LiPo it would increase the speed that much or am I just misremembering?
Love your stories. Rc has been a huge part of my life. I too started in 87 when i got a rc10 for xmas. 40 years later im still doing it. Thanks for the share.
Thank you! The video could be the unveiling of the shelf queen body, or it could be the building of the Big Boss, installation of the brushes esc and motor in the runner Brute, who knows! Lol
So, I have a T6.2 and am struggling to get under 20mm ride hight without totally backing off the spring preload collars. What springs would you recommend to replace mine with in order to go lower without sacrificing the spring rate to prevent the chassis from slapping on and off of the jumps?
@@trevorfurlotte I would approximate it to have less grip than carpet for sure. Possibly similar to a high bite dirt track or mild clay, IDK. Obviously fewer jumps, too. The main thing I'd like to avoid is breaking rear traction which then leads into unrecoverable fishtailing and then even worse would be catching on the tire while sideways and flipping. Any insights with those parameters in mind?
@Drunken_Hamster tires, shock oil and sway bars are key. Not stiff enough rolls too much and rolls over. Too stiff, doesn't roll enough and rolls over. Would require trial and error. Personally, I'd never try and turn an off road truck into a basher of any kind. Sounds like a money pit. I'm too OCD. If I wanted to run on the street I'd run an on road car and not try and turn a truck into a car. Make sense?
I wonder why they don't make a 4 gear laydown. Maximum mid-motorness with maximum inertial traction. Also, really sad that the standup in general, and especially the 4-gear is discontinued. For bashers, the rear engine stuff just understeers and wheelies too much, so it's nice to have something that balances better, but obviously compactness is also needed and nobody wants to lose accelerative traction, so a 4 gear standup (or a 4 gear anything mid motor) is kinda the best solution for us.
Great video but you missed a few of your differences, possibly because they make less difference... Your camber links are longer on the carpet car -using the inner-most ball stud mounts. That gives more camber under compression for the dirt for grip -right?, and the longer links reduces traction roll with less camber on the carpet. You've also got stabiliser bars on the carpet car.
