My bolts aren’t long enough to start when it hits the pump ring seal! It stops dead and won’t go far enough! I don’t want to beat it down, there has to be a trick to get it past the o ring! Your bolts went far enough to start, mine are like a 1/16 away from the threads HELP!
Checking the end play. The inner shaft slides through the pump shaft and I was just using feeler gauges to see how much movement it had up and down. I don’t remember the specs for it though.
The ring installation & resizer tools are under 30 bucks as a kit. Watching some people makes videos is painful for me. So much arrogant ignorance. But you getting paid. And that's the whole purpose.
This bring back some memories. I rebuilt my 96 4x4 Tahoe 4L60e in a storage unit 10 years ago. The forward clutch housing was aluminum and cracked. It had no engine braking and it was slipping going to 2nd. and 3rd @ full throttle.
You say you don't know what you're doing but clearly you know all about transmission because you're putting this together no problem... If only there was an install book directions for 4L60E for my 01 silverado LS 1500 4.8
ive heard the load springs make the 3/4 clutch come off as the band is applied, so its not dragging in 3rd gear./ most of the old time builders say to use them.. they put them in for a reason.
First of all great videos, you do really well with the camera angles, makes it very easy to see what you are doing. But I just wanted to tell you the calibration on those is important (maybe not every year depending on use and care) but the lowest setting is true. I am a calibration tech, military trained and I ran a cal lab in TX. I've done thousands of those and so many come in out of tolerance. Rarely are they spot on, very rarely actually, and that goes for most that have been calibrated a year ago. But i would keep it in the low settings for sure, having it on anything higher simply wears out the tension on the spring, and you may be dead on at one point and 10 ftlbs off on another, or off all the way through scale.
Thank you for the compliment. I tried to show everything I could the best I could. It was definitely a fun experience rebuilding this thing. And thanks for the info on the calibration. It’s definitely been a few years since it was calibrated.😅
If you understood the clutch and band application, you would know why the forward clutch has a wavy plate and why it has nothing to do with the 1-2 accumulator.
Great video I’m building a 4L60e, and want to upgrade with the 5 pinion planetary also. Question the bearing for the 5 pinion planetary to ring gear, can I use the stock torrington bearing or is there a specific bearing for the 5 pinion planet to ring gear ?
So I think they are just the stock bearings. I didn’t purchase any special bearings when I did this and just reused what I had. However, this is coming up in a year and a half that I did this and I cannot remember for the life of me if I used the bearings I pulled out with the 5 pinion or if I put the ones I had with the 4 pinion in. I do remember looking at them and comparing and I couldn’t tell a difference
Also. Keep in mind I am not a professional and this was just my attempt to go through and learn how to rebuild my transmission. I did a ton of research before I started and that helped me a ton. Thankfully I didn’t mess anything up 😂. Still going strong today 💪
I didn't have any clue what I was doing haha, but it was a good learning experience and it is still holding strong. glad I could give you some entertainment!
the forward and overrun frictions were from a shop out of Denver, they were Alto's, but i cannot remember what ones exactly they were. and the 3/4 clutch pack were borg warner.
Sorry for the late reply. My buddy owns a salvage yard and we went through a couple 4l65E’s and found a one with the 5 pinions. I didn’t want to buy any off the internet since I wouldn’t be able to verify that they were genuine GM 5 pinions and getting them out of a known good transmission was the best way for me to get them.
