I was here a few weeks ago and for the life of me when I got to that lower crux I forgot how I did it. I had to essentially campus that crux move, I completely forgot the feet I used previously. Watching you I think the trick is right foot up first, as once you put that high left the right is kinda stuck wherever you left it.
Since you spend so much time up at NRG, our AMGA guide put us on Maranatha at Sandstonia recently. I'd love to see that one - it's a fun 5.10c, though neither of us topped it. Would also love to see Fool Effect at Kaymoor. I think I led that one in 1997 but can't be sure. Coming back from a 27yr hiatus now that my 18yo son got into climbing. I like your clean, straightforward style, and your vids are fun and a bit inspiring.
Watching your stuff and enjoying. I'm 55 and stopped climbing in '97 - was busy in the Army. My youngest son, 18, asked me to take him to our local gym a month ago. He never stays for less than 3 hours. This weekend we're headed to the New with a guide from Blue Mountain. I can still, barely, hang on 5.9 or so. I have a film photo of me leading Fool Effect. If you ever hit that, I'd love to see it. I'm hoping we can take a look at it this weekend. Thanks for the Beta, and maybe we'll see you out there sometime!
Always love the videos, man! Gonna be in RRG this coming week climbing august 7-11. Seems like you're out in the New right now, but any chance we'll bump into you?
Are you referring to the reach out right at 2:59? I've been trying to figure out if that is a valid hand and/or foot for this route, or if it belongs to the next line to the right.
Finally got on this route yesterday, wish I watched this before hand. My 12 year old daughter dyno'd from the jug at the crux. I tried that 3 times and kept whipping. A tall climber on the ground was yelling at me the side pull beta you did and it worked on the first go, then got to the anchor.
Alex, I tried MENSA this weekend - it was my first time going to beauty mountain. This video was super helpful and loved the comparisons. Unfortunately I was third day on and couldn't find the lock-off strength to get the send but I'll def be coming back for this awesome route.
Looks like that huge mushroom chicken head came off the route at the top based on a MP photo. Ugh. That hold looked so cool on the video. That's for sharing🤙
So I checked MP. Due to the strange local fear of outside climbers, it's hard to find info on this area. Having been there, is Hidden Valley worth the trip?
Dude props to you for climbing ALL the way to the top. I flashed it but i was so scared abt falling cause i was pumped and would climb bolt to bolt then rest for like 10 mins that i didnt want to uncling that shit at the end and lock off and hope the top was good like you did. thank God i was tall enough to just reach and clip lol. GOOD SEND THO!!!
