I enjoyed your video. Thank you for taking time to do it. I feel your pain! I'm working on a 2000 Honda CRV AWD. It had 2 studs on the passenger side hub that had bad threads. Apparently Honda in their infinite wisdom did not provide a way to remove and replace the wheel studs without removing the hub. I even tried grinding a stud on the back side from the head to the threads. Didn't work for me! The angle is too steep to insert the new stud, Attempting to drive it in would only damage the threads on the new stud. Thank you again to a fellow DIYer!
Dingus cut the stud and mutilated his car with an angle grinder just to realize hub still has to come out for the stud to go in. Don't delete my comment this time. You know you're an idiot. And this is why all these cars are all messed up.
What product did you use when reassembling? Since it’s pressed I’m sure you can’t use assembly lubricant? Did you end up using that or did you use that wd-40 or engine oil?
I did the same exact thing with my fender wells on my beetle. That rubberized undercoat looks clean and keeps it protected. Car is looking good though man 👌
For bore, hone, deck, jetwash and CSS I payed 750. I also sent up my crankshaft to get polished whish was 75. It sounds like a lot but is not too bad since it can now handle more boost.
I rebuild the rocker arm 4 honda civic ex vtec engine. For some reason cylinder 1 continues to lock up and am unable to perform a valve adjustment? Also the intake side are the middle arm with the nipple suppose to be locked into position where they cannot move? Also I see for some reason one of the springs on the exhaust side seems to be more compressed on valve 1 how do I adjust this?
I will put a link in the description showing what torque specs and in what order you need to do it in. The top four cylinder plunger things is the lost motion assembly.
@@dennisgarciaii5290 ahh ok that makes sense, just rebuilt my z6 with vitara pistons and beefy rods, broken in and as a DD at the moment, but turbo as well soon
Just a little advice don't use RTV red use grey and you only need a little dab on the corners and if you want your Build to last change that crank pulley those are notorious for causing premature bearing failure and shattering oil pump internals
I appreciate the comment. I definitely do plan on changing the crank pulley asap since I have learned more about the light weight ones they are not good for dailys.
@@dennisgarciaii5290 Yeah they're not good at all right now I have around 6k miles on my turbo D16 I'm running the stock pulley for now until I buy an ATI damper I also have this setup in my 90 EF sedan Nippon Vitara Build the Nippon pistons are actually better and have been around alot longer than those cheap YCP made out of recycled metal pistons
@@dennisgarciaii5290 the rocker arm assembly for a d16z6. I went out for a 3 hour drive and stopped at as many salvage yards as I could. Just cant find the damn thing. Other than that part (and the valve cover) the engine is perfect.
