You said when it happened you didn't have brakes in your hands (even in the right hand - 13:43 ), but you did (10:37). Because you actually was making a right turn on full trim out, very probably on the speedbar as well, and in the bumpy weather conditions. You must have lost the toggle temporarily. So the advice is obvious: no brakes on full trim out (let alone on the speedbar) - use the tip steering. (Or put it other way around: no turns on speedbar) It had been an excellent decision earlier to make this test having enough altitude! Also: need to fly faster? - buy a delta or a ULA. Best Regards and thanks for the video! (Just noticed it has been a year since...)
@michroz yep I agree, could have accidently pulled brake but hard to know for sure. Definitely won't pull brake on speedbar again, and honestly I've stepped back from speedbar a bit entirely because I have had other unposted collapses on speedbar not touching brakes and in smooth air and it's just kind of soured me on the speedbar.
I fly 2 liners XC and then I’m hands off the breaks I know I’m taking xtra risk. Good job having altitude when hands off or it would truly be a crash video
Pap is great. It holds up better to a topple better in my opinion, disassembles way way easier, is much cheaper to replace a busted net or busted hoop section. Also has an airbag to protect you from butt landings. Good unit for sure
Spend time watching a lot of videos, spend a lot of time kiting, and make sure you already have a pretty good knowledge base in aviation. Also find a large wide open place to fly from.
Hej, dzięki Twojemu filmowi udało mi się ustawić gaźnik! wielkie dzięki. Before:ru-vid.como0VSj4YjIO4 after:ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iFV8p3IvD6s.html
hi. just wondering how long have you been flying paramotor? from your wing experience what wings have you flown? what is your wing you fly .. now? ill just check your site out now.hmm less then 2 years flying experience. please check my site out.🙃
I've flown a lot of wings, more than I can list. My current wings I fly are the 18m Gin Carve and the 20m Falcon 2. I have others but those are my current wings I'm flying. And ya I've been flying about 2 years
So the title goes this wing tried to kill me yet when shit goes wrong all you say is bad idea, bad idea, bad idea??? I believe we know who's at fault here. Thumbs down
Looks like You were pulling right brake. You were in a right turn the whole time as your glider was turning to the right while applying bar. In theory a reflex glider becomes more collapse resistant when accelerated, not less. I doubt it was the weather. Hands off those brakes brotha.
Getting more power higher RPM wears the motor quicker, it’s sort of taking it as far lean as possible. At least if you’re not doing competitions is it really necessary to go to max lean? To make engine last longer running smooth as possible closest to rich side wouldn’t that be healthier for the engine not worrying about RPM’s so much?
If you can not cleanly get to full rpm (which is a range between 8700 and 9000) then you are going to build up carbon and cause issues with your motor. I'm not telling you to go full lean, my motor revving to 8700rpm is the richer side of the safe range. There are pilots running 9200rpm and that's dangerous. The spark plug should be a nice coffee brown. If it's way too rich it's not good. If it's too lean it's not good. Need to be adjusted properly! It's also about having a smooth power band. If you are too rich your RPM will jump 1000-3000 right when the high jet opens up. This is not good for you flying because you have no control of your power application, and it's not good for your motor either....
I see, it's just a straight piece thru the hole. It looked like a small tool you slip over the adjustment screw with a bar to facilitate turning. Due to the very limited space, I may have to design such a tool. A 3D printed small tool for adjustment would weigh nothing and could fly in the storage pocket so you always have it with you.
I want to know why the adjustment they don't want you to touch is the long adjustment screw and the low jet, which you need to adjust when changing LZ altitudes or seasonal pressure changes, is short? Seems like they should be the other way. Fortunately, my motor is running perfectly with just a small low jet adjustment.
I point to each adjuster with a large red arrow in the 1st 2 mins of the video showing you which is which. Low jet (short one) will be your primary adjustment for changes in altitude or weather
Ozone wings manual specifically warn against applying brakes while using speedbar. Recommend you use the C-riser instead because too much brake will cause a collapse while using the speedbar. I can't tell in the video, but it looks like you pulled right brake while on speedbar. In slow-mo, your feet are up and you have right brake pulled...plus the speedbar is asymmetric making the problem worse. I think your collapse may be the result of not understanding the specifics of the wing. Based on your comments, I don't think you usually fly Ozone wings and have not learned the manufacturer's recommendations, especially the part on speedbar use. Different wings behave differently and jumping on an unfamilier wing with zero training, research, or browsing the manual and doing advanced things is asking for trouble. In no way was this a failure of the wing. This was the result of operating the wing outside the manufacturer's recommendations.
The title of the video is really wrong. Respectfully, the responsability is on pilot s side, fully. It is an unstable day, very much so, I would expect thermal activity pretty strong, and not very organized at that altitude. I wouldn let go of my brakes for any reason, and therefore know what is happening with the pressure of the wing. If you are not properly trimmed, plus playing with accelerator and phone, is a very good formula for collapse. Did you do the right thing, after collapse? Well you didn t make things worse, but that is about it. Reading yo ur own comments I would suggest a change in attitude, if you want to fly safer. It is a very instructing video, though. At least for many of us. Thanks for that, good luck.
This might be a bit large of a step up from a Vantage. I would recommend something in between like a Dudek Solo in 22-24m or you could even go to a Luna 2 23m. Maybe a Scirroco / Speedster 22-24m. Even a 22-24m Dudek Nucleon 4 could be good. The Falcon is a step beyond those wings in both speed and agility.
Dude, nice video, and thanks for the share ! In my opinion, you were taking too many risks : look at the sky : it's smoking ! ... You can expect strong thermals and turbulence at anytime with tis weather ! And you were flying low (I would say less than 1000 feet), you were flying accelerated, un-trimmed... and with your pone in your left hand, and your right hand out of the toggle ... what could possibly go wrong ? ;) The wing is NOT dangerous... you were taking some risks, and you had a great reaction !
No I don't necessarily think the wing is dangerous even though my clickbait title would suggest that. The weather wasn't ideal, I said as much, and the risks I was taking I didn't fully appreciate at the time. I've flown other wings in similar situations doing similar things and had no issue with it but every situation and wing is different. I have made some adjustments to my flying and decision making based on this incident!
This is so beautiful. I gotta get into this sport. I recently did 8 aff skydives. I got into skydiving because I absolutely loved the canopy flight. The jumping out of an airplane part to get there, not quite a fan yet haha.
@@JustOutHereTinkering I only have two launches and landings on it due to time and weather so I'll need a few hours to really know the difference. Take off is good, comes right up and then wants immediate power and off the ground in 10-15 feet but also had 5-8mph wind. I was concerned about the 2D steering and it being real sensitive, its not. I'm not sure its any more sensitive than my old glider but I really didn't yank the brakes hard either. Landing is where I really saw the biggest change. The flare is much longer and flatter than my other wings. I'd guess the flare is triple the time than an A or beginner/intermediate (RAMAflex) wing. First landing I either stalled out or hit some sink and landed a bit hard but upright. Second landing I flared out lower and longer to land with one or two steps. My other wings are pretty much get close to ground and quickly and aggressively pull brake and you land in just a second. My low battery on my tach seems to have made it inaccurate with RPMs jumping all over the place but to my ears it sounds like maybe 1000RPM lower than my other wing. I did go with a 22m as I didn't want a rocketship that burned more fuel for my daily driver. Hopefully that was the right choice. I would have been at the upper end of the 20m without much to spare.
@@Kent-pb2jl yes flare authority is great, and it does want immediate power and you're up very quick. As for agility, I've found the initial reaction of the wing is good but as you pull more you get more in a linear way. Others wings that are more beginner oriented you get some and then it just stops giving you more. You find the limit and it doesn't want to give more. The Falcon just keeps giving if you ask for it.
@@JustOutHereTinkering I was concerned it might be too spicy but with initial flights if say it is easier to land and take off than an A glider. It's not like it's going to barrel roll with a little brake input. The jump is much less than I was expecting.
Thanks for charting the uncharted.... I have a Nitro 200 that is out of warranty, and it uses the that uses the WB37 also. But I suspect it is jetted differnetly for the Vitto. When looking through the manual, it stated "Max Thrust at 7500 RPM". My tach would only read 6500 rpm. So I decided to follow your lead and adjust my H screw. I got it to 7450rpm and called it a day. A note to other viewers: I spent a good 30 minutes making H screw adjustments that turned out to be way too big (5 minutes in a clock face). I finally making the most minute adjustments, tiny bumps, like a degree. So be subtle.
In a lot of cases yes. But that's definitely dependent on a few things. What was your first wing, and what size was that wing in? How long have you had it, what's your experience level, (you have to be honest with yourself here) what is your aptitude for flying and how quickly and easily are you picking things up. If you have 20hrs on a mojo, it's a 3rd wing at least. If you have 20hrs on a giant 28m spyder or something, probably same answer. But if you have hours on a dudek solo, done a 2d tie in, flew it 50+ hrs and you learned quickly and feel very comfortable then you could maybe make it a 2nd wing. It's a jump but it could be done, especially in a bigger size. But really recommend 3rd wing... Nuc 4 or XX, Luna 2, those are much better 2nd wings IMHO
@Kent-pb2jl I don't really know where those wings fall on the scale of things but that's also only 1 of the questions asked. But the falcon isn't difficult to fly it just comes up above you 100x faster than an A wing, can get out of shape easier on launching and landing, and requires lighter hands and lighter pressure turning while you also get 10x the reaction from your inputs... Lastly and most importantly you almost can't stall an A wing. Bury the brakes on launch it doesn't care. You can't do that on this class of wing, it will stall and you can get hurt. in the end it's up to you if you think you're ready or not. I couldn't tell you unless I flew with you all the time and knew your experience level first hand
If you want to go fast, get an airplane. Paragliding is for slow flying. I think you are idiotic for trying to fly at the speed limit of a piece of cloth holding you up. If you had been at 800 ft, you'd be dead.
So you are right up near the limit for a 20m. I had my mind set on an Apco F3 but now I'm looking at the Falcon 2. Have you flown the F3? This wing is pretty fast with fairly low RPM.
Any idea what the most efficient (low RPM) wing you've flown? I'm in the market for an intermediate+ wing and there are just so many options with limited info.
Ohhh... well, the Flow RPM is very very efficient. I can't directly attest to the XC version but it should alleviate most of the things I didn't like while still being very efficient and fast. The Gin Falcon is quite efficient as well. The Viper XC is also very efficient. But it's not quite that simple because the liftiest wing I have flown was the Spyder 3 in a size way too big for me. It was super low rpm but it's slow and floaty so. Any of the wings I mentioned are efficient, as is the Niviuk Qubik, the Warp is also very efficient but it has its list of down sides... The Falcon is more efficient than the Nucleon 4 but they aren't super far off and the Nuc is more chill. The Viper XC I have a mixed relationship with as you might be aware.... I love my Falcon personally. It's my favorite wing.
@@JustOutHereTinkering Thanks. Do you think the Falcon 2 is the best all around for stable and efficiency? Prefer speed and XC more than being super agile.
@Kent-pb2jl so it's the fastest wing I own. I have a 20m falcon 2 and it's faster than my 18m warp, it's faster than the 18m Flow RPM2, it's faster than the 22m Nuc. Stability is on par with Nuc and above the Warp and RPM2. The efficiency is slightly better on the Warp and Flow RPM2 but that's due to a very high aspect ratio. But it's better than the Nuc for efficiency. Agility the Falcon and Warp are the 2 highest, followed by RPM and then Nuc last. I feel like the Falcon is the best of all worlds for me
What size bearings did you use for the buckos fork? What is the stock bearing size? So the stock one is a straight tube? What's the advantage of going to tapered vs keeping it straight as the buckos comes in a straight setting too?
So if you plan on going with a new fork, and it has the option of a straight steerer tube I would go with that. Higher end forks are all tapered and most are not available in straight steerer. The taper does offer some additional strength but honestly that's not a huge concern in the grand scheme. I only went tapered on the bucklos because I had plans to go further to a RockShox fork that was tapered. As for specs I show you all the sizing needed in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bfp1fS8v0pQ.htmlsi=fj7hkNhbjZEORpeH
@@JustOutHereTinkeringThanks for the response! Do you think it's worth keeping the stock fork and just replacing the bearings with closed bearings? I was able to get this bike on sale for 400$ and can't decide if I should spend ~100-125$ to upgrade it to the bucklos with new bearings. That'll essentially be like 25% of bike costs haha! I'm not using it to ride any trails, but rather just commuting short distances here and there on smooth roads.
@@thebujster if you aren't going to be using the suspension off road then the stock fork is perfectly suitable. It will work offroad just not as well, but on road the only difference is weight and with electric, not a huge deal.
My email is JustoutHereTinkering@gmail.com. feel free to email a screenshot of that to me as I read that entire section and never saw it say anything of the sort. Of course that was 6 months ago so maybe they updated the manual
Not from what I read, it says maximum speed is achieved at the red line with speedbar active and brakes shouldn't be used past that red line, but it says speedbar can be used at any point in the trim range.
Are you still flying? Hope you are well and I enjoy your content. Your review of the Luna to was a huge help to me in deciding to purchase it, I lost count of how many times I watched both videos. Thanks again!
Which throttle did you go to? I had the same issues as you accidentally hitting the kill switch on my new Pap. I stuck about a half inch of PVC pipe over The end to be flush with the kill switch that seems to solve that problem for me for no dollars. Also I ground off about an inch of that throttle lever that was driving me crazy.
I did something similar initially. I cut the throttle down to be 2 finger only and I put a silicon cap on to make it harder to hit. But I ended up going to the Iris No BS throttle and after making a small modification it works perfectly!
