@@lakesautomotivediagnostics6509 thanks for the fast reply!, Unfortunately I don't think that will work for me as many of the strands are crumbling. I guess I might need to splice in new wire further down where it changes from heavier gauge wire to the thin wires that connect to the eyelet.
@@lakesautomotivediagnostics6509 thank you I broke my pin that goes in the bottom of the radiator and I used this glue called super weld. Seems pretty sturdy but I still ordered new ones. Do you recommend me just waiting for the new ones or just use the old broken one.
@aldo4575 I guess it depends on how quick you’re going to need your vehicle of course it would be better to wait for the new ones that would have to be your decision, whether you believe it will hold or not
This is great. I changed the switch, but now when the tires are on the ground (jacked up it works good), there seems to be almost no power steering, and the fluid now leaks from the tube below that the pressure switch line is connected to when it seems that pressure builds up in the line, even after bleeding the line. I used aftermarket power steering fluid, could it be I need a certain fluid? Or would that mean the new switch doesn’t work?
How was your power steering before you change the sensor? Did it have good power steering? Why did you change the sensor? Was it leaking out of the connector end where exactly is the fluid leaking from now? Definitely need to fix that first.
@@lakesautomotivediagnostics6509 power steering before was working well but leaking out of the sensor. Swapped that and filled with new aftermarket fluid. It now will leak from the high pressure tube that the sensor connects to when pressure builds up from turning and purges, as if an air bubble was in the system. But I did that after I bled the system so there shouldn’t be air in the system
@@gregreesman first and foremost definitely have to get the leak fixed. Do you have air bubbles in your power steering reservoir? You can suck air in from a leak but usually I see that on the low side.
@@lakesautomotivediagnostics6509 It doesn’t leak on its own- only when I start steering with the tires on the ground with the aftermarket fluid (but not when it’s on the jacks) which makes me think it’s the fluid not moving well, causing pressure, and causing it to leak. I wish I could show you a video to explain better haha
That would be helpful😁 where exactly is it leaking? Is it where the sensor goes in ,right beside it? Or where the metal line crimps on to the rubber hose
Hey how are you, The electric locks on my 2006 Malibu are crazy, they are activating all the time. Do you know what the problem could be? Could you make a video on how to get to the electric locks and do some maintenance?
Great video. I have a 2016 2.0 with a similar issue. I took it to a repair guy mentioned this video he told me the catalytic converter is connected to the exhaust manifold and the whole unit needs to be replaced at $1600 I said why don’t we just try this first and he assured me the front converter is the one with the issue so apparently according to this video, you are only dealing with the mid catalytic converter, correct? Can you give me a little insight on this because I am now very confused I don’t wanna spend 1600 if I don’t have to.
It can be your front cat. It can be your rear cat or it can be both in the vehicle in the video. It was the rear cat if he did not do any test such as back pressure test then he is just assuming it is the front cat. Not to say that he is wrong
I have no codes for low and medium speed and the fan low and high doesn’t work on autel on low it says duty cycle to turn fan on ? I don’t know the autel didn’t have the ability to turn it on low and medium speed . .
Did you look at the steering control module? It's not in the video and there is no indication of where it is located in the video. This makes the title of "2014 charger, no communication with TCM, steering control module" misleading. Thank you
I changed my lead frame because of code p0720. Now I'm getting p0715/p0717. 2017 ford f150 2.7l leadframe from dealership selected by Vin. Any help please?
Everyone is asking why they stopped selling these. If my memory serves right, they stopped selling them around the same time the Snap-on EECT900 came out (SO's version of the Power Probe 4, with some upgrades taken from other PP devices incl the Hook, along with a much higher price tag). PP makes (or has made overseas) the EECT900 for SO. It has the same latching circuit breaker tester, albeit with a lower range (2-30A, vs the 2-65A rated circuit breaker function of the hook, which I luckily bought before it was D/C'd). PP put a small bit of that functionality into the Maestro (which can do some light graphing and has better button function layout, but doesn't incl the higher amp rated curcuit breaker), but of course they just had to leave some of the functionality as "SO exclusive" features. PP probably figured SO would make them more money with that "exclusivity" of functions over selling it to the public. Just my opinion...
Welcome to the club. Where you can make your own food and you knpw what goes into it. You were right on about putting the head unit into the freezer. I put mine in with my meat for about an hour and a half more/less depending on the meat firmness. First run you need to use the large guage plate. Then use the smaller one for the final grind. Its really hard on the grinder to use the smaller on first and also over grinds the meat turning it into a paste. Get a scale so that you can measure your meat to fat ratio. Generally people like to do a 20% fat ratio. So every 8lbs meat add 2 lbs of fat. I get pork belly, fattiest smoked bacon i can find, or fat off the cow from the butcher. The thing abpit the fat ratio is that you can play with it. You can add/subtract it to see what your family likes, then repeat. You can also make fancie budgie burgers. Add cheese, crispy bacon, seasonings, ect,ect to the meat before you grind. Then when you go cook them its already their and all you have to do is cook it.
You don’t need a special tool. Those are designed to be used with a simple flat blade screwdriver. Also, use silicone spray before twisting them. I have been working on Nissan since 1990. 0:44
I did this work on my Mazda 6 yesterday. After a few punches with a hamer, the bearing separated and the the inner part was stil stuck in the nuckle. Had to chop the inner part in two halves with the angelgrinder to get it out...
I did all 12 rocker arms and lifters on the driver side which is the left side. Used the same camshafts and it lasted 75k+ miles. Now I’m doing it again and I’m replacing the camshafts and bad rockers because of a tick and misfire code on cylinder 4
I just did this job on my 2010 Murano. I also bought a $50 kit off of Amazon and had the exact same shim issues as you did. My kit came with four shims, one thick and three thin and the original part had three thin shims. I tried every combination of shims to get it work, and ended up using all four shims AND a washer like you did. It's working, but I think it's a little too far out. What makes this worse is that there isn't a spec available for the distance. What is too much? No idea!
Well, I guess don’t believe everything you hear from your buddies🤣 I bought one of these for my daughter and I have been calling it the iron Duke for a year oops, thanks for the info
