I ordered the Motive system and extra adapters for European and Asian cars. What junk. They sent universal adapter that was two hooks and a chain. What a joke. The adapter was too big to even fit in the area where the fluid tank is. The pump worked once and then wouldn't pump again More junk. All the connection are direct fittings, no swivels so you have to twist the hose all up. It's like a high school shop class at a remedial school designed this. There is one good item included in the package but it's an extra, the catch bottle. What junk. Buyer beware.
I don't know, I have had good luck with mine. I got mine with all the available adaptors and they fit most of the vehicles. They don't offer an adaptor for Toyota products because Toyota master covers slip on instead of locking on like most brands. I have used that universal adaptor you mentioned. Although I admit it is indeed somewhat cumbersome, I have used it successfully.
@@richardspaulding5035 I stated the vehicles I needed the adapters for so for two of them they sent me two identical universal adapters. The only adapter that would work as you would expect was the one for a BMW. But then the air pressure pump device wouldn't work, I blocked off the tubing to make certain something wasn't leaking elsewhere, but no luck. The air pump device wouldn't work, seemed the plunger was loose. Glad it went well for you, but I am going back to the two person bleed method.
I believe on the passenger side you must remove the coolant tank to access the bulb and on the driver side there may be some sort of harness or large plug to get out of the way as well. Nest time I have the car in the video here I will post a video.
I recently received a comment from a viewer reporting he used an old plumber's pipe wrench and a long pipe to fit over the handle for leverage to remove a stripped bolt on his mower. With those pipe wrenches' the more force you apply the tighter they grip. let me know how it works
A problem I have with the parts stores, is that even if they honor the warranty, They just give you another crappy part. No refunds. You buy a part, find it is garbage, they just want to give you another garbage part, that probably wont last. You cant take the cash and try another brand that may be better. also another thing is that the lifetime , and limited lifetime warranties are vague. What are the details, and limits? The store clerks say go to the website, for details, and the website says look on the receipt. No details on receipt. apparently it may be up to whatever manager decides to do. i try to buy OEM parts when I can, and avoid the parts stores. That is not always possible though, as oem parts are not always available.
LOL. On the first side as, I think I mentioned I broke my thumbnail. Once I figured it out, I posted the video. As pointed out by other viewers the tab is green not red. I contracted the Mesales at a very young age and lost my ability to see some colors. Glad it was helpful.
This just happened to me, I managed to get the part stuck inside out with a flat screwdriver and pliers. The part just clicks back onto the cap (bit of force required) and I was able to screw the whole thing back.
When I started out as a young mechanic in the 1970s, disc brakes were starting to become popular. A rotor at that time was very expensive comparatively. Some were as much as $100 each. A lot of people did not make much more than that per week at that time. So, we turned all the rotors that we could. Now with the cheap parts available from China and Mexico they don’t bother to turn them anymore. Myself, like you being an old school guy I still do it when possible. I think an OEM machined rotor is far better than the junk rotors from overseas.
Me as well, I purchased my first tool set in 1969 at the age of sixteen. You are correct as nothing ever goes as planned, especially when trying to film a repair. LOL
My draft year was in the Vietnam era. I thought being color blind would keep me out of the army. However, to the contrary when I went for my pre-draft physical, they told me they especially want us color blind guys. They like to put us up in helicopters over the jungle and take advantage of our color blindness to help spot enemy camouflaging. Fortunately, later that year Nixon started troop withdrawals, and I was never called.
If you look at it from the point of view of the camera it looks to all the world that I am tightening. However, the Ktool is connected to a wrench that is loosening a bolt from the other side of the caliper. So if you look at it from the point of view of the other side of the car you would see I am indeed loosening the bolt.
I had the wobble on my knock off balancer and found the problem was the nut and washer in the back side of the plate. The nut was a cheap nut that could not be tightened, So I took the nut and flat washer to the hardware store and matched the tread size and picked up the better made nut. also got a couple of matching flat washer because I was going to double up on the washers for better strength. Put on the new locking nut and was able to get the shaft tight. I used a 8mm socket and a 6mm open end wrench to tighten the nut, on the shaft there is two flats to hold the shaft from turning during tightening the nut, NO MORE WOBBLE. The balancer works great now,
I am glad you were able to salvage the balancer. I just sent mine back. When we buy something, we should not have to repair it like that. However, when you look at the big picture you did indeed save money by purchasing the cheaper option and it sounds like it was a fairly easy fix.
If you look at this (and the Oregon version) there is a screw from the backside holding the shaft to the plate. Tighten this up and it would have been fine.
Good video. If you are wondering, you do not need to lift the car to do it, it can be done from the ground level. It makes sense to replace the whole harness, as most of the work is to remove / install the pan, so removing the valve body and replacing the harness takes max 30 minutes extra. The new harness has the sensor integrated, so I suspect that there was an issue with intermittent connection between the harness and the sensor. If you have a metal pan like Richard, you can do yourself a favor and buy a plastic pan with gasket from the dealer, it is $60-$70 for the whole assembly with gasket and plugs. It saves you labor with cleaning the old sealant and waiting for the new sealant to fully settle (24h) before filling with oil. It also saves you from worrying that the sealant might be applied incorrectly, smearing during the install (the pan is pretty hard to get in / out of the car), etc. I used permatex extra black like Richard and it seems to hold, but if I knew, I would just buy a new plastic pan.
Thanks for sharing all that information. It is a nice supplement to my video. I thought I had addressed the reason I did not replace the harness in the video. However, if you missed it, it was the extra money. The car belongs to a widow who is a cancer survivor. She is trying to live on a very small, fixed income. To replace the harness would have been an extra $100 dollars and as you suggested the pan would have been another $70 or so. This is money she did not have. I as I recall I did the whole job for under $50. As it turned out it has been more than a year and the issue has not resurfaced.
@@richardspaulding5035 I watched your video and fully understood your reasons, I have just provided my thoughts for someone who might watch your video before doing the job on their own.
hey i just wanted to give you a heads up. the spring you pointed at and said not to remove - you can actually safely remove and reassemble all of this. it takes a little practice, but all you need is a slide hammer
Anytime as I try to respond to all my comments. I posted the video just for you and was going to take it down after you watched it, but it is drawing a lot of views so I guess it will stay for now. LOL
Thanks for this tip. I have the same problem on my b-max while the cap was replaced in 2023 at the garage. I think it's a manufacturing defect, other models have the problem.
Just did this today! I have the same mower and was having the same exact problem. When I undid the fuel line by the fuel filter, it was just trickling out slowly. So I removed the tank like you did and removed the hose from the bottom of the tank and stuck a wire through there where the hose hooks up, and pushed all kind of trash out of there. Rinsed the inside out, reinstalled everything, and now it runs so good! Thank you for posting this video! It helped me tremendously!
This issue was driving me crazy. The machine would run good for about 5 minutes then shut down. I then recalled when I opened my first repair shop in the 1970s, I had purchased an old tow truck. The truck would shut down seemingly at random. When it would happen, I would have to sit for about 15 to 20 minutes then it would start up and run again. Sometimes it would be good for a several days but would keep happening. It was very frustrating because I could not find anything wrong with this vehicle. One day I decided to pull the gas tank and have a look inside. I found a piece of paper floating around inside the tank. Evidently every so often it would get sucked in front of the fuel inlet. Once the vacuum would drop it would float back into the tank. So, this prompted me to look inside the mower tank. I saw a bunch of tiny particles floating around in there as it then became obvious what I had to do.
Here is a link to a video I posted a few minutes ago. hopefully it will help you reconnect that spring. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rUeUoLtmSEw.html
Thank you thank you thank you!! Bought new bulbs off Amazon and the instructions that came with them were awful!! Your instructions were so much clearer and I was able to replace my headlight in 15 minutes! (Only took that long because the retainer clip was being a pain haha).
Thanks, it was a good move ordering the bulbs online. Locally the bulbs go for 100 dollars. At the time I ordered a pair online for under 20 dollars. The cheaper bulb installed in the video is still working after more than 4 years now.
Das Letzte, was ich tun wollte, war, dem Besitzer, der mir sein Fahrzeug anvertraut hatte, zuzugeben, dass ich nicht einmal die Motorhaube öffnen konnte. Nachdem ich es herausgefunden hatte, postete ich das Video und dachte, dass auch andere das vernünftige Problem haben könnten. Vielen Dank, dass Sie zugeschaut haben und sich die Zeit genommen haben, einen Kommentar zu hinterlassen.
I don't know about that one, get another opinion. I had a Toyota product in the shop with all those lights on and it was a bad oxygen sensor. Sometimes the vehicle's computer will shut down those safety features (and for the most part that's what they are) if it detects degraded engine performance. Most all new car dealerships have a nominal fee to diagnose a problem. Might be worth doing that before spending nearly 2000 dollars on a differential. Don't be a stranger, I am interested in the outcome.
OMG this makes me ill. I pried, beat and pulled to no avail. My pulley is rust welded on. Sprayed it, heated it with a torch, used a gear puller, all I did was wreck it. And yours slid right off. I had to pull my engine to get the new belt on. Lost my religion over this one but it’s done. Just cut the grass
To be honest I expected to have difficulty but was pleasantly surprised. Fortunately, those engines come up quite easily with just four bolts holding it to the frame. As I recall from a different repair you had to use a 9/16 socket. Funny in this age Cub Cadet mostly still uses SAE nuts and bolts. Glad you go the job done.
Remove the air filter and try spraying a little starting fluid or putting a few drops of gas directly into the carburetor. if it fires up for a few second you will know it is a fuel delivery issue. Another thing to look at is to remove the engine cover. Sometimes rodents will get under there and chew the wires off the ignition modules.
Hello, we want to sell these two lawn mower tensioners. Can you post a link? We can give you 10 sets of this product and give them to fans in a lottery to increase your number of fans.
It most certainly would be thick enough to protect the asphalt. However, I don't think it would hold its shape. Over time as you handle it the metal might tend to get bowed. The thick plywood will make it much more ridged and easier to handle without the fear of cutting your hands. furthermore 13-gauge sheet metal is very expensive. By using the plywood as shown in the video you can get away with a much smaller piece. Most all of the weight will be only on the front 2 wheels of the jack.
Thanks, it is becoming more and more difficult to come up with content that has not already been covered. I have been using my comments to give me ideas. This was one such video.
