Hello, I have a Sprinter 2005 2.2cdi and it has power loss and does not rev over 3000rpm when the car is stationary. when I'm driving it can pass 3000 rpm and reach 4000 rpm. but I can't understand why it can't pass 3000 rpm when the car is stopped and I press full throttle. I had one injector leak off I replaced it but the problem was not solved. what I think could be a turbo actuator. it has a mechanical actuator in which a hose is connected to a solenoid. during a stop of the engine, it has a vibration sound and I can feel the vibration in the hose. Can I make a clock mechanical actuator with regard to turbo? or only the electric actuator can be clocked? thanks for your video.
Your vacuum actuated turbo is similar to our 2002-2003 Sprinters here. The 3000rpm while parked issue and failing at highway speed sound like fuel pressure problems. Do you have a compatible code reader? I can help you setup an AP200 and get a round OBD adaptor that works, if your van needs one. I'll send several links with short instructions like "Buy this" "Watch this" then ask for specific readings you get with the code reader. it does more than just report codes. 1-on-1 assistance is a member benefit. Please join today and help make more videos as I continue learning more about these vans. patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
If I keep this 77,000 mile 2004 2500 Sprinter Van toped off with all the juices necessary I really hope to avoid this possible future event. That sticky tar gum is currently landing on our Gulf Coast Beaches right now. Pain in the ass however it appears.
Not a process I recommend unless you are changing coolant types. I don't mess with the radiator drains and simply remove the lower radiator hose so it all flushes out quickly. When the engine is cold I flush with hose water but I know my water quality here is good with very low mineral and iron content. The thermostat closes so you may want to remove that for a "flush" of the engine cooling jacket. Flushing the radiator would be a smart time to replace the thermostat, but the you won't know which action brought change.
Now we're moving on to van number 3? What the hell was the fix for the first one? I almost fell asleep three times trying to figure out what's going on here what's what kind of diagnosis is this
Sorry, I do what I can and sometimes the story gets lost in editing while still making sense in my mind. I'll try to make a better one when I learn more about a/c systems in our vans.
Fan running when key on usually means the ECM is not booting up. Either is is not getting power on all three pins needed, or the problem is internal to the ECM. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hRmXq4KRHdQ.html
@@Ms.Frankenbuilder Patience and persistence will usually get them running. Keep trying the key and at some random point the van will start. Sometimes a jumpstart or few seconds on a battery charger will change the voltage enough to change the boot-up and bring success.
Any will fit and if you don't have any accessories running there is no reason to go above the minimum 90 amp. If you are charging a big house battery with DC-DC charger you'll want the biggest alternator option. But.... the 200 amp alternators shipped by Amazon don't fit properly, causing the belt to wear fast and break pulleys.
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks. Try my luck again with a 2nd question: Is the dash fan supposed to be running (lowest setting) with the ignition turned off? I was thinking that was causing the battery to drain, but it makes more sense it’s the alternator when the engine shuts down while driving. And the battery light was ON dash.
@@DKN808 Dash fan running when the key is off is not normal. If it blows on lowest setting regardless of speed selector dial, that will be your REST button stuck in the On position. The REST feature is intended to keep the cab warm while refueling. There is a button on the HVAC control and the only time I've seen this problem we had to replace the dash control to fix it.
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you. I replaced the resistor a short while ago because the fan only went on low or highest setting. But I do the climate control panel needs to be serviced/replaced as I’ve replaced every part in my AC system and still cannot get it to blow cold air 🫤
If after you replace the wiring you still have the same issue I would throw an ecm in there and ride it out for awhile to see. These ecms can for sure give strange issues I’ve noticed some of the ic chips have very little solder on the pins and over time can break loose. In mine there were at least 8 loose pins. I’d imagine there’s a lot of condemned ecms out there that have the same problem
5 cylinder 2.7 liter came in two versions, OM612 & OM647 in North America. Any 2006 or older Sprinter will have it with 2004-2006 being the better of two slight variations. Some RV's show a model year 2007 but the van will have 2006 manufacture date.
Yes, I noticed that too. I think it is coincidental to the auto brand with same three letters. If Bayerische Motoren Werke AG were going to put their mark on this part I think it would have been in Helvetica font.
I don't think it is accessible at all without tearing the dash apart. A shop-vac on the drain line may be your best bet. Perhaps blowing air into the drain line will solve the trouble? If the condenser pan is full it will surely splash inside the van.
Awesome video! Would you by chance know the total length of the dipstick you used? I bought one identical to yours but I’m worried I’m not getting accurate readings after doing my transmission fluid change. I want to make sure I have the same one because mine sticks out about 6 inches of the fluid fill tube.
If you can send me a message in daytime I can check it but length of the stick isn't normally relevant. The stopper is a wide point at the top of the black tip on your dipstick. if you aren't reading any fluid there may be a piece of dipstick broken off inside the tube. If you can push farther, it wasn't fully inserted.
Thanks for the response! Let me know if you were able to get a total length of the dipstick you used in this video. I am able to to put the dipstick all the way in with no problem with about 6 inches sticking out. I can however push it beyond that point till the entire dipstick is in the fill tube. I definitely feel it come to a descent stop with about 6 inches sticking out.
very interesting ! i have a Sprinter 310 D (OM 602 engine 2,9 l, 5 cyl, 102 PS) model 2000 and it suddenly cut while it was running perfectly well. I observe that the heat lamp is no more switching off and there is no more the clic that i could hear in the cabin, changed the 2 relays as shown inthe video, and i also changed the heater timer box on the right side of the engine.. Would you have an idea of what could be the failing component (That normally makes a clic after few seconds of ingnition ON).. Thank you for your help
I'm hoping a viewer can help you with this. I'm not familiar with the click you hear. I think you are referring to glow plugs, but they will not cause van to cut off. A good code reader should help with the engine cut-off symptom.
Unfortunately this didnt work for me. Bought a used Dodge Grand Caravan 2013. Changed the battery, cleaned the contacts, even put a new fuse in the car. I’m at a loss. 😢
Me too! The remote control enabled me to turn it off when I got hot and on when I got cold, but with this remote I never need to touch it, just like the thermostat at home. Well, except to recharge it occasionally.
is this compatible with the 3500? has the OM647 might need one. your link says currently unavailable. but one on the CDN site for 23.15 labelled Turbo Resonator Eliminator, 2148685520 Aluminum Upgrade Turbocharger Resonator Eliminator with Clamp Replacement for Sprinter 2500 2004‑2006 ? is that correct ?
Yes, I think every OM647 in North America will have a resonator and that is the right replacement aluminum part. If you ever come to Florida stop in and I'll put one on as a membership perk. I buy them in bulk but shipping one to you in Canada is a bit tricky.
@@FloridaVanMan Sorry, need the top section of mirrors, mine are both broken. Have sent back a set of mirrors that didn't fit so thought maybe I could find just the top sections.Thank you for the reply.
@@Ms.Frankenbuilder Europarts-SD.com has them, and eBay. They come with the shroud but don't try to replace that on your van. Just use the glass and toss the other parts that come with it.
That looks like a great time. Thank you for all your videos. I have a question. My 2005 T1N high roof 159 wb seems to bottom out when I hit a bump. I replaced the struts and shocks and it rides better but when I hit a pothole it makes a hard thud. So hard my windshield cracked. It has 300 thousand miles . Thanks if anyone could give me a clue what to do next.
One of the van I had here was like that. It had air-bags added in the rear leaf springs and removing those fixed the problem. Is yours a cargo van or RV? 3500 with dually rear wheels or a 2500? I'm wondering if there is too much weight or just not enough for the firm suspension.
@@FloridaVanMan me too. I got the van at 100k and have almost 300k on it now and it just recently started riding rough so I put new shocks and struts and the bouncing got much better but when I hit a pothole it's like it has no suspension. Everything else in suspension feels good and it's straight as an arrow when I let go of the wheel. Thanks again for your help and all your videos! So very helpful!
I want to be there but the van just isn’t quite ready for the cross country trip! I have it “scheduled” for 2025. Also hoping to make the January(?) Florida Van Man fest.
I intend to help them keep going long after my eyes finally close. And I hope that doesn't happen for another 25 years or so! ... unless we get the flying cars I was promised as a child. I'll give up the T1N for a flying car!!!
Well I primed the fuel filter and the fuel pump is drawing fuel but still turns over but no start. I’m thinking my next step is replace the cam sensor although I did here the radiator fan running and just seeing your video that relates to this watching it next! Thanks
If the electric radiator fan comes on when the key is turned on it isn't going to start. There are three relays under fuse box on steering column. Swap those around and verify fuses #16, 17 & 18. Verify the fuses on the front of the battery are passing 12volts to the bottom of each big fuse. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hRmXq4KRHdQ.html
@@FloridaVanMan yeah I plugged in a code reader and just turned the key to provide power and the fan ran the whole time. Wasn’t sure about codes as battery had been dead for some time but got codes C1022, C1010 and C1024
@@bencrosbie Stock size tires will rub our plastic bumper and a seam in the wheel well. A recent video shows how I corrected that. Smaller tires will avoid needing to take minor modifications with knife and hammer. Passenger tires make the ride quieter and more comfortable. Most of us run small truck tires unnecessarily. I don't haul loads in my van anymore. It is built-out as light weight camper van.
@@FloridaVanMan I'll need to watch that video too. the big tyres is ideal for a swamper and some offroading too. there's pros and cons depending on application. That'll be interesting to look into for my sprinter.
