Hi, this is Stav/Stavros, who you might know from my features/reviews/tests in countless UK and European tuning magazines for the last 15years+. Dep Ed of Redline Magazine, and also regularly seen in Fast Car, Banzai, Japanese Performance, J-Tuner, etc.
I'm probably best known for my tech knowledge and testing, my tuning mythbusting, and the no BS way I talk about and do things- If I say it, I've likely been there, done it, and have the proof/facts/experience to back it up, and because of this people tend to trust and listen to me.
My channel is 200+ vids of the tuned car related madness I've got up to in the last 20odd.years, right up to today, and the current focus is mostly on my project cars, testing, tuning, and hooning!
If anyone wants to help contribute in some way to the progress of the channel, my Patreon is... www.patreon.com/stavtech Or if you want to cut out the middleman, my PayPal is- stavrosmediawork@gmail.com
Thank you for your support, and I hope you enjoy it!
None at all. This box has had zero reliability issues despite being completely standard and handling 500 plus horsepower for well over a year and a half.
Great. A Beast No matter how many times or the which way you explain and show this; there will always be people not understanding, misunderstanding and just being brainless. 🤣🤣
@@StavTechSorry to bug you but if you could release a video explaining what the settings thing does cause im curious about how they change things, im trying my best to learn about cars and this would greatly help me learn about proper anti-lag. If you dont want to do that do you know any good videos or websites I could utilize to learn more about throttle bypass systems?
@@villa9612 the stuff at the end showing the settings on this video, surely? You won’t find anything on the internet showing more detail than that, or even close. I could go in to a tiny bit more detail. But even as is it’s more than you’ll ever see people show
One thing about the blow off valve you are missing here is actually a measurement of turbo shaft speed, just because there's pressure in the piping doesn't also imply your boost response when getting back on throttle would be better than while having blow off valve. Additionally, when running anti-lag blow off valves are never used as they interfere with the operation of it.
I’m not measuring shaft speed because there’s no need to. Seen it on a Dyno plenty of times, it’s faster without a BOV. Even a compressor map would show you that. And no race car in the last 30+ years runs BOVs even when they don’t have antilag.
@StavTech fully agree with you, the only way to know is to test and analyse. I'm also not running bov in my car and I don't run als. What do you actually mean by visible in compressor map, and which map, efficiency map?
@@ninokri yes, just look at any compressor map, it has turbocharger rpm on it. Look where the rpm is with high pressure and low/no flow (ie closed throttle and no BOV). Then look where the rpm is with low pressure and more flow (ie closed throttle and open BOV). And that’s exactly what speed sensors show.
Hello stav, bit late to the vid, but I was wondering, I have a 2.0L saab B204 engine waiting for a turbo, I would like to end up at around 450hp (stock internals are good for 6-700hp). I was thinking of going with this turbo, but which exhaust housing should I use? I would like to get the fastest spool possible with this hp goal in mind. Engine revs to about 6k
There’s videos of it on the Dyno in the past, plus countless videos of it being timed, winning its class at half mile event, and so on. Just look at previous videos
My 8p1 S3 rattles like that, apr lightweight smf and sachs performance clutch Won't having no bov put strain on the turbo? And why doesn't your gauge show vacuum?
Yep, it’s just how it is with a lot of gearbox designs, esp the O2M O2Q etc we got in our cars. Causes no issues, just can sound a bit fucked at idle sometimes 😂
@@jamesmcivor340 just saw the edit. I explain why no vac in the vid! And strain, in theory yes, in reality in decades of doing it, no. I’d never tell people to do it, but I don’t ever.
@@StavTech I will rewatch the video and listen to you more carefully, your car sounds amazing and I love the anti-lag noises at 2bar+, would love that setup on my 1.8t one day
Interesting approach, without spark cut just a big negative ignition advance. I MUST try this in combination with a simple "EGR" fresh air pipe on my V6 Sierra. Great to the point video again! 👌
Worth a try. I think the number one goal, personally, is maximum effect with minimal spark cut, as aside from insane EGTs melting things, spark cut is the potentially damaging thing. And doing it with such little noise is cool lol
Is this similar in concept to Porsche's Dynamic Boost? Not sure if they still use this on their non-hybrid cars, but remember reading about it some years ago.
Some production cars have dabbled with very mild antilag, don’t think any made positive boost off throttle as such, but the general theory is same regardless, it’s basically making the turbo work more like a jet engine independently of the engine.
@@StavTechYes, a jet engine seems like a very good analogy, and cheap to implement in the sense of no additional hardware. Obviously you have refined it to work very well indeed.
@@robhills2613 yes, I mean the Prodrive ‘rocket’ system is the most refined, it’s literally a jet engine conbustor pre turbine and the only difference is the spark and fuel comes from the engine rather than a source at the conbustor like a normal jet engine
Well thanks for teaching us. Especially about f@ckin’ blow-off valves and rollin’ antilag and shit 😂. Great stuff…might save you from some dumbfounded commenters. 👌
Is there a way I can reach out to you asking for some help on finding the right turbo on my build? As a non native English speaker i understand 65/70 % of your technical explanation but Iam kinda stuck on what to do now… Love your videos mate was smiling the whole video! ❤
@@StavTechjust added you on instagram, I will send you a message somewhere this week as I first need to find the time for a proper explanation haha thanks for you quick response 🔥
30 degrees atdc that is alot and of course resulting to huge boost and mental sounds. Can you control ignition timing based on 3d map where you can start with very retarded ignition timing and as the boost rises, advance it for lower temps?
I can and you can on many ecu setups if you need it. But it really depends on testing, as i say in the video there’s no hard and fast rule for it, and you’ll often find the amount of cut (esp fuel cut) is key also. And AFR too, much like in cylinders. I’d never say to someone a hard and fast rule for settings as all of these things affect the test, and so on. But ignition timing I tend to prefer to not lower if I can’t help it.
So just a Electronic throttle to do bypass air and a chunk of retard to avoid reving? I am not a tuner, just trying to understand what the numbers mean. Thanks for the videos man. You are a legend :D
C-RAM is also known as Phalanx at sea, it’s bloody loud! Spicy R2-D2. I remember the video you did in the Volvo with the boost gauge tapped off the compressor housing. One of the things you mentioned is people going BuT pReSsUrE sPiKeS gOiNg BaCk ThRoUgH tHe TuRbO, which was pretty easily dispelled when you showed the pressure spikes at the compressor, and the BOV wasn’t even opening until the biggest ones had already dissipated LOL. I link that video a lot. I did a lot of research on antilag since your videos showing it on the MR2 as I didn’t know it could be that effective using just E-throttle. Apparently Rally1 is just throttle as well. I have a few questions; 1. EGT, my understanding is that the main limitation is EGTs skyrocketing with significant ignition retard, obviously not a big issue if you’re only using it for a couple of seconds but for continuous antilag it becomes very limited and possibly the ignition cut is to burn less fuel in the block and keep temps at the valves etc down? 2. How is engine braking? You’re obviously not making actual power as the ignition is so retarded, but with the throttle jacked open by 40% you’re not going to be under vacuum so I assume that the engine will be spinning pretty freely. 3. I assume you’re not particularly concerned about 3 bar heading into the engine in terms of cylinder pressure as you’re not actually burning much fuel in there and therefore relatively low cylinder pressure (and presumably the timing retard helps that too)?
Yeah good point, forgot about that on the Volvo. It’s true though. Questions. So. The first one: It’s not pure ignition retard as such that causes mega temps, and what I’ve found is it often goes to a certain temp fast and then stabilises, so gotta kind of see. But things like how much fuel cut and spark cut and AFR target plays a big part. It’s a balancing act and you got to test it. Second one. On mine it’s fine, not as much as standard, but it’s fine. When you see people saying their antilag has ‘push’ and shit, that’s because their shit isn’t really antilag, may as well just have the throttle open if your shit isn’t even gonna slow down. Again that’s a balance between retard, spark and fuel cuts, and throttle position. But I always have mine so it slows down at least as good as if you was coasting in neutral, ideally far better
@@StavTech Cheers for the response Stav, it’s appreciated. Trial and error as usual then! In my head it makes sense that if you’re chucking more air and fuel (maintaining the same lambda) and retarding ignition more then you’re making a bigger bang and more heat for the same energy imparted on the piston than if you ran a bit less retard but also less air+fuel, but the result is less energy also imparted on the turbo. Obviously AFR being richer helps cool too. Sound about right? Sounds about what I’d expect then, I guess even with no vacuum to pull you’re still compressing air.
@@mcgherkinstudios yes, richer will lower temps, same as in a cylinder. So will fuel cut as that’s purely fresh air going through at that point. Honestly though, it’s testing to see what works for your setup. I find it’s not very gradual either, like small changes will seemingly do nothing, and then one more and fuck me it’s gone insane.
I love this wee car Stav it's an absolute animal !!! I need anti lag.. I'm running a big turbo on the Saab van but I'm limited by the T5 ECU and Trionic tuning software. Looking at ECU masters dash ,ECU, and PDM just so I can have full control and maybe use some more modern features like DBW throttle control, EGT sensors etc.
Ahhh so it slows down because 30 deg of retard pulls heaps of torque out from it be interesting to get it at a point of equilibrium where its building boost but maintaining a given road speed
Yeah man. That’s what cars should be. People get too carried away with their cars goals and end up spending crazy money building stuff they don’t even enjoy. Number one thing is a car should be fun to just jump in and use. It’s why I daily the thing so much even though it’s a noisy stripped out single seat thing that’s basically terrible as a daily lol. People build cars ten times as nice but barely drive them as what they built just isn’t much fun
It’s really nothing special. Just the internets made the world think you need something special as most peoples setups are all noise no function. Partially filmed a video now about it at least
I’m takin’ notes…might aswell think about rollcage in fase 1 of my future build. That kind of knowledge is priceless, and you are givin’ it out practicly for free. Class-act mr.Stav…👍 This channel is the absolute shiznit if you plan on doin’ fun stuff with/to an Mr2.
So now, after this video, i will háve to dig into your channel’s content to find out if you decided to ‘test’ or even ‘run’ this turbo. IMO, make a nice perspex case for it, put it on a shelf in your shop, and have a real nice ‘conversational piece’ of a turbo for the geeks that come around. Until the day comes you cannot contain yourself, or somebody makes you an offer you can’t refuse on it… Altough very, very interesting, turbo-tech has come a long way since the 80’s, and the exact ‘characteristics’ of this snail might better be charted before you decide to slap it on your 1.8…. But it sure is an awesome ‘find’…and this video made for an excellent watch! Thanks man…❤
Hey Stav, so i’m wondering ; are you positive and convinced that the factory air intakes on both sides of the car cannot function well enough because of the ‘low pressure’ area they are located at? I can understand you need a ‘ram air’-ish setup for cooling…but would it be possible to directly position some air-filterage behind those vents, and duct them to the engine air intake so it will rely on ‘suction’ to feed the engine with air. And then use a SW20-turbo style of high scoop on the back to cool the rest? I’d like to get an MR2, do an 1.8T swap, settle for about 300-ish hp, and keep the interior suited to fit 2 in relative comfort. 😅 Your opinion on this would be appreciated!
Filters directly behind the vent work fine as they will be sucking in. I’ve done that on my old setup and the air intakes were make and sell do that also. What doesn’t work is ram air, there’s no ram air effect as we tested/proved, but if your filter is literally there it will be sucking purely cold air rather than hot air from an engine bay so is a good thing.
Yo Stav, is it ok if i PM you on some other ‘channel’? I’m about to invest some time into trying to ‘boost’ your RU-vid-shit. In small amounts that is, i just want to make sure it won’t annoy you, and don’t want to end up on the ‘Stalker-fan’ or ‘Online-Simp’ side of things. 😂
I noticed even the BMW mini now has a front wing "vent" cut into it for venting the wheel arch. The 3 + 5 series have a clever duct from the front grill, either side of the rad, which vents into inside of the front wheel for press reduction. Very clever stuff. Love your work and the way you see things (the truth!). Keep it up as always mate 👍
