Tpkracing, Brc Automotive, performance modifications. I go No prep and prep racing and some street. Into modified Ford's and Chevy's with some dodge platforms. Going to upload whatever builds I have, racing or just some good info for combos.
@@andrewslagle1974I almost forgot how awful the setup was on this car til I reviewed the video again. I stand by what I said. 700hp my ass. That would be generous CRANK hp at that. Not wheel.
No. It has rod and piston combo with arp head studs. Basically my version of a stage one turbo build. Makes 15psi on 93 octane. I did a motor build and turbo build at the same time to be able to have an reliable engine at those power levels compared to a stock motor.. anything higher then 700 I have a stage 2 package I do and so on for stage 3 power levels.
@@raimondhyperburia3855 700 crank. There can me be more hp with meth on top with 19psi. But this one was with no meth just 93 only and emission compliant.
@jaywill7192 basically what I did to this mustang. Bottom end rod and piston combo to have the reliability, head studs and cams or no cams with valve springs. And up to a 76mm turbo combo or supercharger roots style. All depends on the what out come or build you want.
Kits depends on if its a stock motor deal or My stage one or an already stage 1 or plus build. But turbo kit pluss fuel supporting system installed and tuned is about $7200 to 7500.
Hey my names Connor I just invested in my first mustang and I can’t decide if I’d like to have my first supercharged vehicle or if I’d like to turbo it.. can you give me a rough estimate on the custom fab and build you have going on?
Congrats! What year mustang did you get? For the quote, are you asking for turbo kit done out the door tuned, or turbo kit and the stage 1 engine build?
@@tpkracing7311 thanks I appreciate it dude! It’s an 05 mustang Roush edition, and I was thinking of the turbo kit as well as the stage one engine build! I’d like to get the car to around high 400-500 wheel I think that would be plenty for now!
Any insight would be appreciated I have a lot of common sense but I’m not a mechanic by any means either, I was looking at a on 3 72mm turbo kit for around $3600
@Connor Steele My turbo kit installed is roughly 5500. That's The whole turbo system and fuel system. Then plus tuning. The stage one engine build is 5000 removed and installed. For 500whp on a 4.6 and reliability is definitely going to need a stage 1 build. Rods don't like torque since they're paper thin and piston gaps are small. I've done a few on3 kits and I'm not a huge fan. Mainly because of parts choices. But thats up to the consumer to decide. If you have any other questions i would be happy to answer them. Email info@brc-automotive.com
@Jue Adams all turbos setups have back pressure. It's valve float that is the issue, because of the springs being so soft in spring pressure. Also with having the correct tubing size, gate size, turbo a/r size and cam timing to help a little bit. Since it's at 12psi it's been fine at 6500. will have issues at more boost, But the car is planning to have stage 2 cam and springs in the future anyways. But it pulls like a beast though.
Normally when I do base tunes. It's either setup to start,run, drive but fuel isn't completed and timing is low until further tuning is done for completion. Wouldn't do any wide open pulls on a base tune at all.
The Detroit Rockers are hands down the best of both worlds in my opinion - great old school sound and plenty of power with no drivability issues at idle. I now regret getting the Comp Cam Stage 2 NSR (blower grind) cams for my '06 Stage 2 Kenne Bell Supercharged Mustang GT. My Comp Cams make awesome power on the top end, but don't sound anywhere near as aggressive and good as those Detroit Rocker cams. The Comp Cams added 35 bhp/30tq with my setup and Pypes LT's with catted X-Pipe. I'm now at 500rwhp/453wtq which is the sweet spot in torque for a 3V with stock internals.
Is their any way you can show just a little glimpse of how you did the fan between the radiator I've having problems where my turbo is way too close too my fan shroud and slightly melting it,,, I like how much your answering questions great work!!
Stopped the build for other reasons. Car that was going to be for this project just didn't pan out and had other projects to continue on. There are upgrades to do on the 5.4 but really there just like a 4.6, they can only take so much power before bad things start to happen when being stock, but this one I was going to push with some modifications to the stock parts before hand.. One day I will come back to this project.
If you're talking about the stock hp from manufacturer. They were quoted that at the crank. 337hp was rated at the wheels. So with the percentage of drive train added. This car was making 400+ at the crank.
Nice, I like your intercooler setup. Looks like it's tucked in nicely, and I was wondering if there is enough room to do 180 turn like that without tires rubbing and looks like it fits 😮 did you have to change anything on the radiator and A/C condenser? Or are they mounted in the stock location?
Radiator and condensor are in the stock locations but condensor is moved back about a few inches to mount a fan in between, but otherwise yes still in factory locations. And the piping behind the wheels are tucked in for full lock to lock on turns without rubbing in either direction. On smaller turbos I can utilize the factory radiator fan or incorporate a different style of fan for more room.
@@tpkracing7311 thanks for hte reply :) I'm working on 3.7 V6 twin-turbo build. So I've bought twin-turbo intercooler (2-in 1-out) with 2" intercooler piping. Hopefully there will enough room to leave to stock rad and fan where they are.
@nick camarata I wanna say between 66 and 68mm sized turbos. But it's mainly the compressor housing that really takes up the most room. 2 2.5 pipes that come off the catalytic converters that are probably 10inches long that quickly merge into a 3in pipe that travels around the frame to turbo.
This turbo kit starts at $6,999 installed using factory headers and includes fuel injectors and fuel pump, boost controller, boost gauge and wideband gauge.
A new slim Fan fits on the front side of the radiator. I didnt have it in yet when I made this. I also made some minor changes towards the cooling system for air pockets after this video.. Ill have more Video of this car coming up soon with the other changes and Getting it dialed in
Hi, does anyone know if I can remove immo/key from stock ecu? Want to swap a 5.4 3v into my BMW e36 😬 Maybe a standalone ecu or something you recommend. Cheers
Meaning the vatts, yes with programming from a tuner for either sct, Diablo, hp tuners. that way you can do the swap with the stock computer and harness and also tune it for any modifications done. There are some stand alone systems that would work better for certain setups for simplicity. Whats it gonna be used for mainly?
@@tpkracing7311 thanks for the reply. I was checking the engine and looks like it's a 4v 5.4. I want it to spins the wheels on weekend, not to use it daily. The engine came out of a wrecked f150, there is no key, but everything else is still on the truck. I've never made this kind of swap, so I'm rather lost here.
@@hostflies7183 what year f150? I don't recall f150 having a 4v 5.4. Maybe meaning a 3v or 2v 5.4? Doing the swap isn't that bad. Mainly need the engine and transmission harness with the ob2 port and then weed out the rest of the wiring that isn't needed. Or just get a stand alone system and be done, depending on what state you live in and what requirements it has for emissions. Even if you had a key and did the swap with it. Still would need programming anyways to remove it, sometimes swaps can be a chore. I would start with the basics with the swap and get everything in it and then move onto the wiring afterwards to see where or what you're going to end up with on computers. Doing a 4.6 swap into a ranger that originally had a 4 cylinder. Same thing have to make my own harness from a donor car.
@@tpkracing7311 hi, today I got the engine (bought it online) and it happened to be a 5.0 coyote... I understand is more complicated to make it standalone 😬
@@hostflies7183 it is a bit more complicated to reuse the old harness out of it.. but there are plenty of options for plug and play type systems. Holley offers a kit for the motor and transmission. And if just a manual even better, ford also sells a stand alone but it's for autos only. Im not sure if they have finally made one for an auto yet. Coyote is a sweet motor setup and the ones from the trucks aren't to far off from the mustang motor. Just little odds and ends are different.
I own a 4.6 and sadly with that engine you can’t make tons of power with fbo. But I personally think it sounds better then a 5.0. Overall 5.0 is better though
depends on how you look at it for pricing and if it still needs to pass emissions. In this case for him he still needs to, all though not an issue to overcome with computer and harness swaps. labor and parts to make it all happen is about the 8k mark. Currently doing a built motor on it and a custom 76mm turbo kit for it. Should be pretty cool for just a cruiser.
Y’all just talk out your ass in these comment sections. A pro charged 3V makes over 500WHP safely on stock internals. A forged block 3V 800-1000whp. A Coyote swap is $12,000 -$20,000 Why would you do that instead of buying a Coyote? You just love talking down on the car, I run scat packs in my stock 200k mile mustang GT , they are slow but sound cool . My Caliber SRT4 outruns Scat Packs 🤣
Best way to gain power on a 3v is a Turbo just gonna say it straight youll break the bank trying to go over 400 NA when you can make 450 wheel on 7-8PSI
I agree 100%. Any 4.6-5.4 is far better off with boost in the long run for power! either it be supercharger or turbo, that's when you start getting into dollars vs hp gained. This very car now came back for a stage 1 built motor and going kennebell supercharger. Ill be posting that build. he had fun being n/a but wants that 600-700hp reliability factor.
@@xrbedee7759 2300 is a base price for there kit. But nonetheless still dollar to dollar boost is the way to go vs cams period to witch I agree. But what the people want is always gonna be the deciding factor for builds. This is not my car, I built it the way the customer wanted and he enjoyed it for a few years and now is ready for boost. Should be a pretty rad car when all done. I also have a coyote build in the process as well amongst others. All boost of course 😎
What is the Max Power you could squeeze out of a 4.6 3v if you did a full build with like 12:1.1 compression, ported heads, cams etc? What kind of power can these make NA? I like the look of the 05-09 but I want Coyote Power..
Being completely honest. I havent done a full max effort na setup. Reason being, it was never really worth the money vs hp to do a na build on one of them. Just like the 4.6 2v. It's been easier to spend the money for a boosted setup to make the power. Now don't get me wrong if one has the money to do so then give it a go. But it will cost more then doing a coyote swap. You can easily find a coyote motor for 22-2500. The pick up trucks have coyote motors but with slight differences. But you would get the results you want. The swap is pretty easily done.
@@tpkracing7311 Thanks for the info. I knew it would be expensive I just thought it would be neat to go that route instead of an engine swap. I understand the cost difference. What all would it take to wire a Coyote into an 05-09 mustang? Are there swap kits? Thank you
@@RD-hf6yv it would be cool to do one just to do one and see what it could do. But never had a customer that wanted to. Or if they did, they didn't like the idea of the money part to get there. This same car I'm tearing it down and building it for him with a kenne bell supercharger but with my version of the kit/setup.. pretty much ford offers a complete plug and play engine harness and ecu. All though if your an auto car then you will need something to control it. To witch there are controllers for the transmission. Or could do a holley setup and that would controll the trans and engine and they also make direct plug and play kits that don't require a maf unlike the ford one. Considering the price for the ford kit. It's almost better for a holley system. Now if you're still trying to pass emissions with it. That would be an entirely different setup ecu and harness wise to do it. Really depends on what the end result will be. I would probably say the wiring for it will be the hardest part. Everything else is cake walk.
@@tpkracing7311 I really appreciate your time to answer my questions. I don’t have any experience with Coyote swaps but I’m sure I will figure it out if I go that direction. My experience is all with Fox bodies and pushrods lol… Thank you
It really Depends on what you are looking for. Like response, Power or trying to go faster. there are plenty of setups to go with. There is a best bang for the buck vs HP setup that would be best on these 3v or 2v for that matter. I like tailoring to the persons needs or wants and giving them the best all around... This car in the video is back getting my stage 1 motor build and going supercharged.
I got a 3v with Muthathumprs cams BBK Long tubes off-road xpipe underdrive pulleys jlt Cai BBK twin 62mm throttle body for manifold making about 362 whp
I definitely agree with its not worth the money to modify any 4.6 2v or 3v for n/a power. Anyone is far better off spending on a forced induction setup and gaining better numbers for either almost the same if not a little more.. case in point, had one customer setup his car 99 mustang 4.6 with different heads unported and a aluminum intake with bullet cams, full exhaust and gear. He made 195 to the wheels but at 6800 compared to most being in the 55 or 6ish range. But nonetheless it was decent for what he spent.. same car different customer with 70kish miles and we bolted on a vortec kit and he already had a cat back.. he made 380 to the wheels on a soft tune up because the clutch was original.
I didn't think this was grabber orange. Looked more "orange" than what I'm used to seeing in the factory paint. I always thought it was a yellow/orange.
@@huntingwolf20 Ya It's pretty confusing. If you google 1969 Boss 302 you get both results that look orange and yellow. But this is what I always think off grabber orange. smclassiccars.com/ford/455203-1970-ford-mustang-fastback-boss-302-grabber-orange-s-match-no-reserve.html Either way its a killer color.
