A few years ago, I was lucky enough to see a "Free Shed" that I had to dismantle and remove! Due to a unitary design, it was made from 2ft wide panels, just like a kit. Unfortunately the base/floor screws and bolts were all severely rusted onto their concrete base! So I had to make a base on my patio. Good fun though!
Don’t know why that amazes you? Somebody achieving something they aren’t trained to do impresses me more than somebody achieving something they’re trained to do. If you go fly a plane now and land it I’d be more impressed than I would be watching a pilot do it.
You can insulate and install a wet under floor heating system to a suspended floor for a fraction of the work load and a fraction of the price. I would also add that running a wet underfloor heating system in an old property off a combi boiler makes little difference to energy bills if you don't insulate all thermal elements. Wet underfloor systems are best used in conjunction with ground sourced or air sourced heat pumps anyway because they need to be running constantly to have any sort of effect. Honestly, in my opinion not worth the hassle or the money. For old property renovations I would insulate thermal elements. Install an entirely new central heating system (new boiler and system flush at a minimum). And check that all radiators have the required capacity for the heat loss of the space. It will have a much larger effect on energy bills and efficiency. Not tryna poo poo your work though. Good on you for having a crack at it.
Does concrete not force moisture under the DPM to the side potentially pushing the moisture into the walls over time? I think this is the argument for using Limecrete, but not sure.
Scott mate this is excellent work, was there an existing floor you took out or something? What was the process for removing the rubble like? I always stress about that as I don't have a driveway so nowhere to put one
I did that..... which lead me building a 10 seater beach bar...... which lead me to building 10 stools..... which lead me to building a 5 m by 5 mtre platform to hold my daughters swing area.... all £1000 and added 20k to my house..... have a go ❤
Just curious, when it comes to the underfloor heating system are you installing a slow reacting screed system or a quick reacting Wunda rapid response system?
Some tips for next time No need to spray the scratch coat with the mesh that’s why the right hand side started sliding. When using the I bar just pass it flat to the wall and rub up and down on the beads
WOW ! Really enjoyed this Scott. First class woodworking skills on display and a proper set of boys toys!! The gate looks fantastic so I'm hoping you'll do a follow up video of you hanging it. Makes my puny plans for my side gate replacement look pants, but I've learned loads from this, so thank you for sharing.
Yes we did, the footage wasn't great, so it didn't make the video. I plan on making another gate in the future out of hard wood, so will make sure its all fully covered.
Hi mate, not to bad overall but I wouldn't class it a premium gate if it was a premium gate it wouldn't be standard Redwood (Pine) it would be European Oak or Iroko a naturally durable timber or even ACCOYA. Being a bench joiner of some 36 years all in all not to bad but a few things for your next gate. Firstly the legs are not legs, they are called stiles if you want your terminology correct. I personally would have done through mortise and tenons on a external gate as this allows you to wedge the joints generating a far stronger gate as you create a dovetail effect by wedging it stopping the gate from coming apart. Secondly, dont glue your T& G Boards into place they need to be able to expand and contract hence the idea of using the packers to leave a gap to move. If you are going to inset the T & G into a groove like that drill some drainage holes through the rails to allow water that will gather in the bottom of that groove to drain out as it will fill with water over time and sit there in the cold winter months . Thirdly, if you are wanting to inset the boards like that or just using T & G Boards in general I would recommend pre-finishing inside the grooves and on the tongues and the grooves of the T &G as ultimately as they expand and contract over time you will see the unfinished raw edge as well as sealing the end grain where water will be drawn up like a straw with this design. Personally if the gate is to be painted I would have used Tri-coyya MDF applied with a v-groove to generate the V-Groove effect. For me a dont use softwood anymore and only use Hardwood for external painted projects if customers cant afford ACCOYA or Oak regretfully I think that your gate will give you around 3 years of service life only being softwood and being untreated before assembly.
Thanks for such a detailed comment! I can tell you really know your stuff. My channels are all about learning and sharing that with the community. the information you have given is really useful! I do plan to make another gate in the future out of Iroko so will take your comments on board.
@@scott_diy No worries mate thats how we all learn and improve our skills by taking advise and learning along the way we all have to start somewhere. Next time come and see me at my shop and I'll show you how a better set up joinery shop works by having spindle moulders and tenoning machines to do the M & T joints and wide belt sanders for sanding your job, the set up that Simon Bowler has is okay but for larger and more acurate work having the larger machines helpsin accuracy and speed. I'm local to Simon Bowler so you'd be coming to the same area, I've seen him a couple of times in Duffileds timber which is where you would source your Iroko from.
@@scott_diyAs a trained joiner myself I would add that braces should be notched into the rails about an inch in from the stiles and not run into the corners. Basic detail I see so many so called professionals fail to do. Id give 6 out of 10 for that gate.
