I am a real estate agent in Midland MI, but mostly I like to build things. Almost anything for that matter. If it's something I haven't tried yet, even better. I am inspired by other RU-vidrs to keep pushing my limits.
Thanks. The plumbing on this thing was definitely the hardest part. When you order your tanks, I would suggest not doing what I did. I thought I was adding capacity by adding more pipe on the outlet, but what I really was adding was more chances for it to plug up. If I did it over again, I would have the outlet of the tank near the outside edge of the camper.
so you're video just came across my "for you feed" and just watched it. I'm not sure where you get that PMF is not sandable to where a person can't produce a smooth finish, but as someone who has worked with both PMF, real fiberglass and carbon fiber (like kevlar). I can tell you from experience that I can sand PMF and get just as smooth as regular fiberglass or carbon fiber, and if you actually use Titebond 2 or 3 wood glue with paint and a final coat of clear coat then PMF is actually waterproof and water repellant just like anything made out of fiberglass and still cost a thousand dollars less than using fiberglass materials. There's a reason why it's called PMF and this systems has been in use for thousands of years by many different ancient societies. from the ancient Egyptians and Sumerians to Native American Indians to African and South American natives.
I think Canvas and Titebond match the strength of the foam core material. It is a low strength properly matched composite system. The Low strength is adequate for these DIY trailers. There are engineered structural foam core materials that are made to be used with Fiberglas and other engineered structural fabrics. I dislike calling this PMF. It is a low strength properly matched composite system. The Low strength is adequate for these DIY trailers. I would call it "Canvas XPS Composite Construction". The price of this foam board has inflated so much over the years, it might be worth looking into actual engineered composite foam.
I should have included that. A few episodes later I had to peel off some epoxy fiberglass that didn't cure correctly and it was really difficult to remove. Surprisingly difficult.
That would be great. The resin I am using is actually the same epoxy resin I used when I built a cedar strip kayak. I like this stuff because it has a very low odor.
Thanks. I picked up that lathe a couple years ago from a guy that reconditions them. It's a little more difficult to work on than a modern lathe but it's fun knowing it was built in the 1940s.
I want to thank you for taking the time and filming the process of building the Spring Run Kayak and enjoyed watching all 10 episodes. I am contemplating building one myself since I have both recently retired and recovered from cancer. I used to own a Spring Run but did not build it myself and always hoped to do so one day. Agains thanks. Do you still have the strongback and station molds and if so would you be interested in selling them? Blessings on your adventures in the future.
Thanks for the comments. I do still have all of the parts, but I am using them currently to build another model. I am attempting to copy a 12 ft Dagger recreational kayak. So far I'll have done is cut out the slats.
That's what everyone keeps commenting on :) I had seen it done this way a bunch before I made the video. It doesn't make a big difference for my test though because it was really about the tensile strength of the cotton versus the fiberglass. The glue would add a small amount of rigidity.
@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 , I noticed after I posted that, that you mentioned that very thing. Enjoyed the video. If I ever decide to build a trailer using foam core, I’d definitely send the extra money on the Fibreglass. Thank you for the video.
Had anyone done any tests regarding fire safety? If this turns into a dripping inferno of napalm whole you're asleep in it, I'm probably not going to use it. Even generating fumes in such an enclosed space would be an issue
Fiberglass will not burn because it is literally just fibers of glass. However, most epoxies will burn at some temperature and will put off obnoxious fumes. The insulation is rated as fire resistant, but it will melt and still put off fumes. Unfortunately, this is true of most items in your house and your car. The world is out to get us.
"Today i will be baking a cake without following the recipe and baking biscuits doing it the right way! We'll see which one turns out better!"... If epoxy were stronger than Tightbond II, people would probably use epoxy.
Wondering why you didn't use fiberglass & foam composite for the floor, instead of osb? You could have sandwiched screw or bolt reinforcement just as you did for the walls.
I saw some other people do that, and I thought about it, but the OSB is just super durable and easy. It takes a lot of thickness of fiberglass (and cost) to make the floor sturdy enough.
I have been searching off and on for weeks to build a light and portable sound deadening enclosure for my RV generator. I saw a guy that built one from foam board, that was pretty effective for decibels. But I am concerned for strength and wear and tear over long term use. I have not come across the PMF. Do you have a method to wrap and tidy up the edges?
I know there are a bunch of videos out there that cover that. Since I ended up going with fiberglass I never needed to figure it out. In case you didn't know, some of the newer generators have a CO detector in them and they will shut off if they are in an enclosure.
epoxy sensitization it's not a joke, the more you interact with uncured epoxy the more likely it is that it will get you a reaction to the point you can't work with it anymore. :) awesome videos!
On the outside I used three layers of 6-in woven cloth. I let the resin cure for about 6-8 hours but it was still soft enough so I had a chemical bond between the two. I did two layers on the inside. I talked to a few other RU-vidrs that used six layers on the outside and that would give you a nice hard shell, but I was going for lightweight. My goal was to be 1000 pounds, but I am ending up around 1200.
@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 yeah I have read on a couple websites that you should run ply at 45° for more strength, personally I don't see how that really works in this application. I'm guessing you get plenty of resistance against racking from the foam board itself.
@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 Thank you for your fast response! I like the fiberglass idea but I do not like the fact that it takes forever to get a nice finish. 😞 I'm thinking of doing fiberglass and finishing it with Fillion RV siding. This would add a small amount of weight but avoid all the filling, sanding, and painting. WDYT?
@@gommgomm-ps5fiI considered doing that but I really wanted the rounded corners (just an aesthetic thing). I was also concerned about handling large floppy panels by myself and the fact that you have to drill holes to attach trim at all of the joints.
@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 Ok, I understand. In my case, I would just bond the Fillion to the fiberglass and glue the trims without any screws or nails. The trims will never become loose or let water in if the right product is used.
My brother built his like that. 1/4" plywood with fiberglass on top of the wood. That makes it a lot heavier but allows you to fasten things to it easily. It's also a lot more durable that way.
@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 He used 1/4 ply both sides? i was thinking 1/4 ply on inside and fiberglass on the outside. Do you have a link to his build or videos?
Awesome build!! I am just starting on mine and was conducting my own foam tests. Found that the pink 1” foam from Owens, also at Lowes/Home Depot has a higher compression strength, do it holds up even better. And I have experimented with drilling a 1/8” hole every inch and weaving a fiberglass strand through the foam, and then laminating it, can cut the weight of the fiberglass cloth used significantly. A 2.5oz cloth came out stronger than a 4oz cloth without the weave. I guess the woven strands through the foam (a very time consuming process though!!) prevents de-lamination and buckling of the fiberglass away from the foam. I think for long-livety of my camper I will take the time to weave the strands through the boards. But thanks for your videos. Awesome info!!
I think that's a really smart idea. I had someone tell me that they thought I was crazy for only putting on a few layers of glass. He was adding 6 layers to his shell. Also, if you can find it, you can buy 250lb foam instead of the standard 150lb foam. It's made to go under concrete slabs and that extra density would make a stronger core.
bad test, with pmf, you need water proof or at least resistant wood glue for the base layer, then you dilute and apply a few layers on top of the fabric, then you paint it. This is not PMF.
Fair assessment. But there really aren't any rules and regulations for PMF so it's hard to say what is right or wrong. My point in making the video was to show how strong the two methods are and the PMF did surprisingly well. If I was testing for water resistance, then it would be a totally different story.
@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 I actually like the music it's just too loud unless you are talking. I just mute it until CC tells me you are saying something. Do love the build though nice design and looking forward to your future projects.
That’s really cool, I’m in the UK and have been trying to figure out how to build a similar structure on the back of a 18ft boat to make it into a house boat and glad I found these videos, as it seems like a massively easier process than plywood and fibreglass etc.
Thanks. I'm not sure it's easier, but it does turn out quite a bit lighter. I can lift this entire shell myself. My brother built a truck camper using plywood laminated onto foam with fiberglass over top. It is a lot heavier, but he has the advantage of being able to fasten things to it easier.
@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 it seems easier to work with in that it’s far easier to manoeuvre and seems to be easier to slot together etc. yes I did think about laminating a layer of ply on the inside too possibly so I can also do this. You have the added bonus it doesn’t rot too, which makes a massive difference on a boat where everything rots and marine ply costs the earth.
Agreed. It would probably help some. From what I could see, the failure was not really because the adhesion failed. It was more because the epoxy/fiberglass is so much more rigid than the paint or glue would be. The PMF simply bent easier with compression.
I thought about that but I was afraid that these will get damaged at some point and I want to be able to make more. All it takes is one blow-out to rip these things into shreds. Thanks for watching.
Even if you don't like it I would still suggest to wear some proper gloves when working with epoxy, once you are sensitized to the chemicals in the adhesive you're basically fucked for life. Thanks for the nice videos, gave me a lot of information for my own build
Great very basic tests! I think had you poked some holes (even shallow ones) into the foam board and then put primer on all sides (edges included), then the cotton material (or even window screen material), I think it would have been even stronger. Just a theory here, but makes sense in my head. Thanks again for the fun video and hope your project turned out well!
Great build saw all your vids, can't wait to see you finish interior. I saw one he did test sanding with different grits of paper. He used glass & epoxy. 40 grit looked to have the best hold. I'm designing a pop-up truck camper, plan on using glue & 8 or 10 Oz canvas due to cost. Glass & epoxy is VERY expensive here in Alaska. Hope to find local supplier for boat paint, but probably use Rust-Oleum for final finish $$
@BeardedToad-cd1ly Thanks. I bet the Rust-Oleum paint would turn out really nice. I know you can get additives for it so it rolls on smoother just like the stuff I used for boats. In my opinion, the final coat is the most important for poor man's fiberglass because you really need to seal everything up well. Water will be your enemy.
man Im glad im not as OCD as you. you could have cut a small valley on the inside for that chord and tape over. also for a foamie its easier and firmer foundation to set 2x6 or 2x4 on top of wood deck and screw the foam into the 2x4's instead of your plexy-glued on bottom. but hey looks fun.
@@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 Thanks for your prompt reply! The cellulose blow-in machine requires a 20-amp wire, but my house has only 15-amp wires. It also seems to generate less dust at the feed site in comparison with the cellulose machine you can rent. Do you think so?
@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 never thought of the rot but would the resin at least seal the wood if I were to just use that as a sealer or encapsulate the whole base with resin and fiberglass
I never did any engineering calculations on the strength, but I would not hesitate to sit on top. My little teardrop is really strong. Snow would not be a problem at all with the fiberglass system I used. Not sure about the PMF.
@kimdonaghyrealtor8238 I was leary about the poorman without a garage but glad I came across your video. Closest i found to an answer. Definitely fiberglass or something else without good storage
Yes, you finally mentioned glue for PMF but on TOP of using the glue, if you use a perforation roller on the foam, then brush on the glue, then lay the material, let it dry, add another layer of glue, let dry and then paint with any good acrylic paint at least 2-3 layers (if you like, sand between each to get a smooth finish), THEN you actually have the PMF to put up against resin and fiberglass. Just saying!
I think that would definitely help, but I don't think the Titebond glue and fabric will ever have the same strength and rigidity as epoxy and fiberglass will.
