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Great video. I love using Fusion to design my ideas but I am struggling to figure out the toolpath/manufacturing aspect of fusion. Do you have or know any good ways to learn that? Thanks for any help
So Arrange is a great feature except you cannot duplicate parts. Is there a way around this? Is there anyway to copy and paste? Seems awfully expensive extension.
I'm running Roomba 605 in our workshop, it's been there for a while, still running nice and strong. It already survived attack from other robots we have as well as a little fall when it slipped off of my colleague's hands. iRobot also made a robot vacuum especially made for workshops and garages named Dirt Dog. It's been nearly two decades since it was announced.
@@pdxcnc much appreciated (as are your contributions in the FB group). i'm coming from Shaper Origin so the idea of ploughing through 3/4 material in a single pass is blowing my mind at the moment. Seeing this, along with the right feeds and speeds, is helping me take that big step up and get off to a good start. I have it all wired up. Replumbing my compressed air system and Should be firing it up in the next few days as soon as I receive those bits! I noticed you don't have a tool library yet for vectric (still ramping up on fusion) - is it best to just add the bits I ordered manually? Any guidance you have there would be great.
Absolutely. Glad to hear it, there's a lot to get going when you setup your first machine. Libraries: Yeah we're still getting these going. Which tools are you looking for in Vectric, I can try to get those setup first?
Cheap plywood splitting is annoying. Mdf core would have been better for large slab doors. They stay flat forever vs plywood which will warp almost immediately in a garage.
Yo! I'm just drawing up my own fixture plate for my CNC. What spacing have you used for the dowel holes? Also, would you change the spacing if you were to do it again??
@@pdxcnc Hey Justin! i was just wondering what the purpose of the thin layer of MDF is you have sandwiched in the middle layer? Is it to hold the t-nuts in in the underside of the top tayer?? thanks, Graham
@7:58 - the ONLY part of the video I slightly disagree with. I don´t think a bit has to scream (vibrate!). at least I try to avoid it if possible. with a 8mm compression cutter and the sheet firmly sucked down with vacuum that is usually possible for me. If I push a tool too much or use it too long after it got too dull (which is totally possible with a compression cutter :) I had contact corrosion issues in the past. Iso30 in a HSD here too. looking at the tools in the toolchanger I have to say they look totally fine. This makes me wonder if my pullstud/drawbar thingie in the spindle maybe does not provide enough clamping force and that´s the reason for me babying my machine :D great video Justin!
I don't wholly disagree but a 1/4" (6.3mm) compression tool has always made that noise for us, no matter brand or age of my machine/spindle. I believe a combination of a lot of things but it's just not very rigid, maybe the tool holder/collet is sucking in and out as well, 18,000 RPM's can likely cause it to drop a little, ISO30 is no HSK.
Cool video. I didn't know to use conventional with compression cutters, I don't cut much plywood. @7:39 Why do you use a second 2d contour operation for your finish pass rather use roughing and finish passes within the first 2d contour operation?
Hey Kip, thanks. Good question. I guess didn't explain that but often it works better to rough fully and not break the vacuum seal then come back with the lighter cut cleanup finish pass with much lower tool pressure.
@@pdxcnc I gotcha. But couldn't you achieve the same outcome by checking "Finish Only at Final Depth", and unchecking "Rough Final", setting a finishing stepdown all under the "Multiple Depths section" and then using the "Stepover" under the "Passes" Dropdown. To compare it with using two operations The finishing stepdown setting is essentially the axial stock to leave that was set in the roughing operation and the stepover is the radial stock to leave set on the roughing operation. I use a finish pass on most of the parts I make and this is how I do it with one operation. But I am well aware that there are usually multiple strategies to get the same or similar outcomes.
No, there's a few options for nesting, one is called Arrange which is the easiest and what I used here. Would really depend on your use case, it's got considerable more control over every operation than VCarve. One caveat would be engraving, VCarve has Fusion beat there.
Very nice! Thanks for putting this out there. For some people with higher horsepower spindles, or just looking to improve efficiency, my ShopSabre IS408 w/ a 10hp spindle, we do 3/4" baltic birch plywood a lot, and we use 1/4" compression bits, single pass full depth, no tabs or onion skin, a bit over 300ipm and 16,000 rpm and get perfectly clean edges. We use 1/4" compression for just about everything due to it's ability to do smaller geometry compared to 3/8". Plus, for holding down small parts (around 10 in^2 surface area), full depth single pass, no onion or tabs is the way to go as the chips pack and keep them in place. Will never onion skin or tab again, but that's just our preference. Cheers!
@@pdxcnc you know they certainly will get blackening over time yes, I'm not 100% sure what I should expect for tool life with what I'm doing, but one 1/4" compression tool will last maybe 40-50 sheets before I feel the need to change it due to seeing some fuzzies start to appear on the part edges. Any thoughts? Always looking for input! :)
@garretehrick6137 yeah, I ask because I started out around those speeds and was blackening tools. I eventually found out I was feeding too slow and the blackening is too much heat in the cut. I’d push that 1/4” more like 380-390 IPM at 16k and you’ll see longer tool life
@@pdxcnc Thanks so much for the feedback! Full depth pass at those speeds for you? I have yet to break a bit at my feedrates, so I'm definitely keen to speed them up a bit.
I’d also be interested in tool path strategies to avoid tear out on hardwoods. I have found no good way to turn a 90 degree outside profile without some splintering. I’ve also played with Fusion’s preserve sharp corners technique which seems to help, but still doesn’t work perfectly.
@@pdxcncI too am a machinist, and I just assumed to go with climb milling. Now that I hear you say it, it makes sense. I seriously appreciate you getting straight to the point. Keep it up 👌
Yeah, I was trying to cut out some plywood on my CNC mill, and have done lots of metal, and I have always used climb, but I'll be grabbing a compression bit and conventional milling. Thanks for that info. I just never would have thought of it, but it's obvious as heck looking back.
Awesome, thanks! We make ours in a very custom Airtable ERP system. I've not found a good way to share it. It uses the Page Designer extension. You can use the Dymo label maker software though, we do that for one-offs - pdxc.co/dymo-450
