It’s pretty compact in my opinion, .99” x 4”x .25”. It’s a full size handle but really thin. I am planning on making a version without the loop that’ll be quite a bit shorter.
As of 10 October 2024, everything is sold out except for the Utility knife. From what I can tell from the website that means one out of eight knives are available. I guess keep checking back, but I don't see stuff coming back into stock until after the holidays at this point.
The Remex is currently out of production, but I would like to revamp it in the future. I am currently working on getting the Fictive back into production. I got a new machine, so I have to redesign all of the machining fixtures and process.
A valid concern! I’ve thought about this a lot. To keep it low tox, I try to use organic non-metal dyes. The acid and baking soda kinda balance out in the rinse waste. The real concern is the nickel in the seal. I mitigate this by pouring the waste water into a tray of kitty litter, and leaving it in the sun to evaporate the water. Eventually I’ll throw the kitty litter away. That way I can at least keep it out of the ground and waterways. As I start to make more wastewater I will either find a new solution or scale up the kitty litter. If you have a better idea I’m all ears!
I put the temp probe into the sulfuric bath for accurate control. It turns on a cheap pump to pump cold water into the chiller. You need a bubble in the bath to circulate water, but if you’re anodizing you need it anyway.
Probably some but I remember checking that before I used it. If it does, it’s a very thin layer so whatever percentage of shrinkage it has will be relatively small because it’s only .02” thick or so. That’s my thought anywho.
Run a water hose above ground for a little while until you decide about your water. Cheap, will get you water, move it when you mow. Not a permanent solution, but may help you decide the priority for a waterline or if it can wait.
Yep, that’s what I’m doing currently. However my neighbor informed me there was a waterline at one time. I found the end by the shop, just gotta find the other and reconnect it hopefully!
Thanks for the video! I pretty much mirrored your setup but used a low end titanium coil chiller made by vevor. Well it appears to have not worked well. Are you still using that chiller setup? Thanks!
No, I’m not! I built a new chiller that has a much higher cooling capacity! It’s cheap and easy to make, only requires 2 5 gallon buckets, 1/2” pvc hose, hose clamp, drill bits. Unlike my previous cooler, it has so much cooling capacity that the chiller water can be almost the temperature I want the bath to be. With the other chiller, it had to be ice cold to keep it at 70°. I’ll try to do a video on it very soon!
I cant believe the time energy and effort your wasting. it would have just been easier and cheaper if you had taken this to a machine shop and got them to fly cut / deck a true surface with a larger mill.
I learned so much doing this, I don’t regret it at all. A machine shop would have been faster yes, but I would imagine a shop would charge $1,500 or more to flatten and cut a reference rail for 3 separate axis. Cost a couple hundred and now I can put rails accurately on anything with hand tools. Also this method has better vibration dampening than a machined surface will ever have, Important for lightweight machines. I sold this grizzly 4 years ago, but it’s still being used.
Give making your own pallets a go! Its easier than it looks and once the cost to try a pallet Design is $20-$30 in material it’s easier to try new approaches. The pallet hardware is reusable. About half of my dozen pallets were made from scratch. Once you take the plunge you’ll Never look back.
Great to see the awesome update, it had been a while! Would definitely recommend trying to keep abrasives away from the machines. Do your blasting cabinet and surface grinder have good extraction set ups?
I just moved and still getting my new shop set up. I imagine they’ll be some tweaks to get the knives perfect since I got a new milling machine also. But I’d imagine they’ll turn out even better.
Yeah, I just moved. My shop isn’t set up yet, I don’t even have a milling machine right now! New one is coming tomorrow though! Hope to be selling again in a month.
As a "professional anodize technician" (big quotes on that one since I'm under 2 years at my company, but have my process down pat), this is the closest to a "professional" as you can get as far as home setups go, I'm highly impressed. The book by R.H. Probert is all our shop has ever used for reference and we always nail our thickness goal (.0005- .0007 measured w/ eddy current), except we base our power supply settings by constant voltage instead of amperage. Really easy if you know what aluminum alloy you're working with specifically. And don't worry, in shops like mine I splash my parts around in the rinse tanks the same way you do! You've got the best, and safest home setup I've seen. Kudos to you for showing the right way to do it.
Thanks! Nice to hear from someone in the industry. I’ll be upgrading my setup since I have more space at my new shop. Not sure what upgrades but I suspect it’ll just be more spread out, and in larger containers.
@@IronForestKnives thanks for the quick reply. I realized after rewatching the video a third time that you mention the RO+DI System, and now I see it on your parts list from your google doc. I'm going to be building out a setup of my own following your blue print. Are there any changes you would make? I'm also a member of the fb diy group that's how I found you here. If you have a preferred means of communicating let me know. Thank you for all your input here and there.
Cameron - I’ve got a small fidget slider I’m curious if you’d be interested in anodizing… it’s a fidget slider all stainless steel that’s very near and dear to my heart. How could I contact you for more information?
Anodizing only works on aluminum, and there’s another type that’s for titanium. Stainless can be colored but only a few colors I believe. A chemical coloring. Look up caswell plating, I know they have blackening solutions.
The patterns you have are gorgeous. I am very curious about what process you are using. Are you using masking? The precision in the pattern looks printed on
Thanks for this great video! I've read that pre-anodizing prep with glass beads is a mistake since the beads can shatter and embed glass in the aluminum, which can then affect the ano. Have you had any issues with that? Have you tried blasting with any other materials (walnut shell, stainless steel beads, etc.)?
I do wet blasting, it’s much more gentile. The water acts as a buffer. I’ve never had glass embed. Never tried any other media other than AO which was also wet blasting. If I over blast the parts, they won’t take color as well in some areas. Haven’t figured out why yet, but I haven’t tried to find out either lol.
