Your HVAC Solutions, Delivered! On this channel you will find videos designed to help you sell and install HVAC systems in Chicagoland. Videos are produced by Brian Daleske, lead Tech Support specialist at Able Distributors.
Great video. I have a Goodman 4ton modulating 120,000 btu furnace. I have 3 cfm output on panel that range from 1670-2200 cfm. My furnace is located in basement, I have a 16’ trunk on left side of house and a 36’ trunk going to the right side of the house. When I start to build off the plenum does the first run on both side have to equal and be around that range of cfm or does the longest run has to start off being that cfm range?
Thanks...I think ( you may be giving me $h!t about my artistic skills ) when I shoot these videos, I never script them out, I take two minutes to draw something and then I start recording, typically I do one take even if there's a flaw, for this 10 minute video, it takes me about 15minutes, I'm always by myself when I record, perfect was never my intension. I did see your unedited comment, and it's actually a good question, why would the "secondary" heat exchanger come before the primary one.... simple, if it was above the primary heat exchanger, the heat from the primary would re-heat the secondary. thanks for checking out my video, stay tuned more to come. Brian..
my intension wasn't to "prove" anything, I was merely pointing out that your furnace or air handler was not ever designed to "clean" the air in your home, the furnace filter was only to protect the equipment from debris,, and thats it. if you want to "clean" the air in your home, the correct way is to use something better than a 1 inch wide filter, there are options, I've listed the options before.... if you restrict the airflow beyond what the equipment manufactures rated it at, you'll lose air flow, your equipment will run hotter ( or colder ) and will not last as long and will not be as efficient, parts will break. there are better ways to filter the air in your home.
I will be needing to replace a surviving 40 year old R22 system because my HVAC guy says he is not allowed to work on banned equipment anymore. His sales team wants me to hurry up and buy an R410a system before 1/1/25 because the prices on the R454b systems will be at least 25% higher. I am disturbed that he wants me to buy another banned system that he won’t be able to work on. From my research on what to buy I came across some disturbing information. I am pretty sure DuPont is not aware of it yet, but their R454b refrigerant is already on the radar scope in Europe for the forever chemical toxins known as PFAS that it contains. I do have complete confidence they will have a replacement coming before the R454b patent runs out though. It was also interesting to fine that R32 is outside the scope of the new environmental ban in Europe. Just search up R454b and PFAS. This a far too familiar scenario. Maybe some of the equipment manufacturers that really like this new and untried toxic R454b could have made better decisions. It would sure keep me from bearing the burden to make all the good decisions on which equipment to buy.
I need to run about 27ft of 3/8 & 3/4 inch from second floor to first through the ceiling . The 3/8 is easy to run and even found a bending spring for that size to make life easier. But have not found a bending spring for the 3/4. Someone suggested I fill it with water or sand and close the ends to run it. Im not sure if that would be ok. I can flush it and dont need to install the actual units till a year after this rough in. Can you give me some suggestions? Thanks
there are spring benders for 3/4" and 7/8", super easy to use, just make sure you over bend and then come back to where you need it, otherwise getting the spring off is tough, good luck, you got this. Brian
Excellent explanation! I will need to rewatch several times though for it to sink in. But seriously thank you! Because as others have said, this is the best out there to do with static pressure.
They are super quiet, except in my case I have some squeaking and squawking going on from an apparent vacuum issue. Line goes up into ceiling with a 10 ft horizontal run before it drains. Would like to see a comparison between this and the Combi unit they have. What I see happening if the power goes out, that line continues to drain and overflow that little tray. Mine continues to drip for like an hour before it stops. Just wondering if that’s an issue with the way the Combi is installed instead. Look forward to your response.
I don’t suppose you guys offer a duct design service cheap? Mine is simple. Ranch, crawl, center furnace, left right 5 take offs each side. 1500 sqft 3 ton. I’m looking for round main trunk lines. Easier for me. I’ve learned a bunch, but I’m not looking to find out I screw up something simple. I don’t even need a cad drawing. Plenum size Starter from plenum size Then how often to reduce. Currently have a rusted out system, and I don’t trust it was done right when first done. 5 take offs all on one side no reductions. Long story.
first off, Thank You for checking out our video. Unfortunately we do not offer duct design services, there may be "on line" type layout and design help, there seems to be an app for everything now. Good Luck, Brian..
I was most concerned about the coil drop since cleaning the A coil is a huge job. And I would like to share what I have done to measure the coil drop, which is very easy to do. You do not need to drill anything and you do not need to buy the special probe either. Just use the screw hole by taking out a screw. To measure underside of the A coil, I unscrewed one of the easily accessible screws from the triangular A coil cover blocking the underside. To measure the top side of A coil, I unscrewed one of the A coil housing cover screws and measured there. In both cases, I pressed the open end of tubing from the manometer ($35 from Amazon) right against the screw hole tight and read the meter. In my case, I measured 0.16 (top side) and 0.25 (underside) which gives me drop of 0.09 WC. I was afraid my A coil would be clogged up a lot after 26 years of use without cleaning at all but this measurement tells me it is wide open for which I am so happy not having to do the big job of disassembling the whole A coil and cleaning it up and reassembling it. Just for sanity check, I also bought Anemometer ($16) from Amazon and it measured anywhere from 550-800 ft/m air speed out of all the vents which seem very reasonable based on what others measured on brand new system. This sort of confirms that my A coil is pretty clean even after 26 years of use without cleaning at all, which is quite surprising. I did not even replace the filter either. I simply vacuumed the filter every year. I hope I am not dreaming.
@@michaelmckenna9022 I do not have high efficiency furnace with secondary heat exchanger with fine fins. This is why underside static pressure is 0.25 which is quite reasonable. So I do not have to worry about it but, if you do, yes, you have to measure the static pressure drop there as well and make sure pressure drop is not excessive.
@@tommason5689 I have a Bryant 90 from the 90s. They had a problem with clogged secondary heat exchangers. Great furnace though, can get deals on new heat exchangers, but I can also get a deal on a new system and install it myself. The main problem is when the house was built they only installed a furnace. So to save money they installed smaller ducting. Then later on installed AC with that ducting. The worst part is that the house is a 2 story.
@@michaelmckenna9022 I have two story house built in late 90's and mine has two separate furnace/AC for upstairs and downstairs with separate controls. I can understand how one furnace can be a problem for two story house, especially with narrow duct. And secondary heat exchanger only adds to the problem and on top of that adding A coil for AC would further reduce the air pressure. Sounds like you might have to replace the duct as well which is a big job. Good luck to you.
@@tommason5689 One solution is to install a micro mini system upstairs. On the other hand I do have a lot of painting and drywall work in the house. Adding some extra duct work would be the right thing to do.
What is a good furnace and ac combo? I’ve had a few companies come out and tell me different things. One doesn’t like napoleon the other likes only Armstrong products? They all dislike Bosc? What would you recommend?
thanks for checking out my video. as far as recommending one brand over another, you need to remember a few things, #1- every contractor wants to install a brand that they're comfortable with, maybe they know the product well, maybe it's the support they get, maybe it's what they have easy access to. #2- I work for a wholesaler that sells Bosch, Napoleon and Gibson equipment, so typically I recommend one of these as I know these products better than I know others, so beware who you ask for advice. #3- this to me is the most important thing to remember, choose the contractor that you like and feel you can trust, the contractor is the guy to fix any issues, the contractor is the guy you trust with your safety, hopefully the contractor you choose will keep your equipment maintained for years and years..once you choose a contractor, trust what he suggests for equipment, they want you to be a happy customer, no contractor will deliberately install bad equipment. as far as Bosch, a lot of contractors just haven't been trained on how to set up or install, the Bosch unit is different than any other unit ( and our best seller ) it's a modulating heat pump. pick your contractor first ! I hope this helped a little, thanks, Brian
Be careful we used a cheap merv 1 and it clogged our system inside the unit with hair, dust, dirt etc. Costs us 170 to get it cleaned we also have pets so get a thicker filter then merv 1 if you have pets etc
My mind is blown. I had no idea and I really thought i was doing the best thing getting the more expensive filters. Im going to upgrade (to the cheaper filters lol) this weekend and I will report back! Thanks for making this educational video for us uninformed homeowners!
I normally get the filtrate 1900 thinking is supposed to help with allergies at home. I recently saw a video where it mentioned the stress it can put on the system and possibly ruin it later on. I’ve been using the filtrate 1900 for 5 years now and so far no problems. I heard about filters that hospitals use and can help with the air flow. My unit is a 2ton. What type of filter would you recommend for my system that wouldn’t put much stress on it? Like what would you recommend the best MERV would be for my system?
Question I've asked on similar videos that hasn't been answered. I previously lived in the NE and had systems with just one filter at the furnace. Now live in the SE with a home on a slab. I have five separate filters in the ceiling in a 2200 SF home. Only the two in the most lived in areas really ever get the least bit dirty. Am I okay using higher rated filters to get things like the pollen we have here out of the air and to keep the return ducts cleaner.
Thank you ! more videos coming soon, I don't script these, I draw on my board, and just start the camera, so for me I need to be in the mindset to shoot a video.... thanks again for checking it out. Brian,
Man, you should start a department in your business where you consult homeowners. I'm no HVAC pro, but I know my system isn't configured right because the has has an 800 sq ft addition and they didn't add new returns or change the AC unit. Every time I get a contractor out they just say, "That oughta be fine." I keep expecting someone to do measurements and calculate airflow, but not a one has yet. I know it's not right, but don't know enough to guide the conversation on the phone and weed out the guys that won't know any better.
I get it, but finding the right contractor is key ( and sometimes not easy ) .. with additions, it's often tough to maintain temperature with the rest of the home, in my area sun rooms or four season rooms built off the back of the home are popular, lots of windows, and has three outside walls, in these cases no matter how much supply and return you have, these rooms lag behind the rest of the home because they either gain or lose temperature faster then the main body of the home , often a separate system, such as a mini split is the answer. in your case I would keep trying to find "your Guy" , explain your concerns, let him know how important the issue is to you ,trust me they want to take care of you and fix your problem, its how they survive. Good Luck, don't give up. Brian
no, sorry, I typically only do videos on products that I have full access to, and typically those are items we stock, although sometimes for training purposes I go outside out company, but in most cases I just don't , I barely have time to do the videos I do now, and trust me , I have a list of 50 more I'm hoping to get to soon. thanks for checking out our video, more coming soon. Brian,
Thank You for checking out our video, I've never worked in, or visited California ( someday ! ) I wouldn't even have a rough guess, sorry, you won't need the MAX units like we have here that allow cold temp heating, but you'll love the way these work, good luck. Brian..
💯 GREAT INFORMATION! The best thing you can do for your customers is install an oversized media filter. Im a HUGE fan of Aprilaire. Keeps equipment clean and VERY little static drop.
Yes, after market "box" filters from GeneralAire, Honeywell and AprilAire are all good, but if you don't have the room for a 7" wide filter, a larger filter ( taller, put furnace on a 6" box ) will also make a huge difference. Thank You for checking out our video. Brian..
3M filtrete 1900 - merv 13, but also twice the media as most merv 8's on the market (1,560 sq. in) so they do not clog up fast, or create static pressure build up any faster then the typical merv 8. Oh, but they do collect smaller particulate matter MUCH better than any merv 8 on the market (including particulates from wildfire smoke) - which equates to cleaner coils, less work for your motor etc, and FAR better overall air quality in your home. It's a no brainer. My residential HVAC heating/cooling system (Maytag) is close to 20 yrs old. Other than changing out a pressure switch yrs ago, not a single issue. I change the 3M 1900 every 4-6 weeks in summer, 8 weeks when snow is on the ground.
most brands either in the set up instructions or even inside the blower door, there will be a chart showing you the blower speeds and how many CFMs will be at different static pressures, and some will include the temp rise at that speed and static. hope this helps, stay tuned, much more coming.... Brian
Wow! I just went to Lowes last night to purchase a new air filter, before turning my central A/C on for the season.... I've actually been buying the 3M Filtrete 1500 regularly, for the past few years! I didnt realize they will make your system "work harder"???
Great video, you've sold me on the brand and the RX 199 IN. My question is, do I need to order the isolation valves separately? I also want to confirm the connector kit that allows me to hook up to the unit for the annual de-scaling comes with the unit, only in a seperate box, correct? Is there any other device I need to order and have ready for the installer? Thanks again for a pro video, very helpful.
I have a conundrum, I have a 3 ton 16 seer in a 1200sq ft home with 4 inch octopus soft ducts , and a 16x25x1 inch return lol. Hvac installed 3 years ago cant use the good filters because my system gets restricted. But with such a newer system I dont want to use fiberglass and risk the evap lol. At the time of install was told the ducts would be fine with an oversized unit as it would push the air better. Im so screwed cant afford new ducts now.
Question please 🙏 1ton=350-400cfm for cooling But heating only take 65% than cooling How do I know what duct size good for both heating and cooling since they require different cfm?If duct size good for 400cfm for cooling also good for heating? Why only design cfm for cooling not heating?
