My channel is all about Knife making. Leather knife sheaths making. Knife blade sharpening techniques with Japanese water stones. Testing the blades for edge holding and knife making tools (like belt ginders, anvil forge and more). I hope to help people that like to do the same thing and enjoy watching it. Thank you
Only suggestion I got, achi, is to pay more attention to the amount of strokes you do in an area in order to avoid creating an asymmetrical blade geometry. Though that’s kinda nit picky since you were pretty consistent. My question is why would you make the saya thicker past the habaki (wait, that was the last video I watched. Of yours). The steel shouldn’t touch the wood and if the saya properly fitted to the habaki, it won’t touch or rattle around. Damn fine work though.
Japanese stones are natural stones and don’t have a standard grit. But 4000 grit stones are generally plenty to make the sword sharp enough to cut effectively. 8000 and up is generally used for mirror finish. Also, abrasion and friction are not synonymous and as I’m watching this, he literally states the grit on the stones used. Smaller steps in grit will mitigate scratches being carried through. Personally I use 600, 1k, 4k, and 8k on my knives.
Did you just say you tried to differentially harden 5160 spring steel you had best hope that thing don't shatter because you are not supposed to differentially harden spring steel because it will shatter my boy it's not designed to do that it's designed to be like a spring, flex and then flex back I would be very concerned about the structural integrity of that blade
Hello, I am using this stones and like them very much. They are good quality. Chosera Naniwa #400 grit Chosera Naniwa #1000 grit Chosera Naniwa #3000 grit King stone #6000 grit Also King Deluxe stone 1000 grit is really good. Kitayama # 8000 grit. The 6000 and 8000 are for polishing and finish. You don’t really need the 8000. You can do almost anything with the 400, 1000 and 6000 grit. I hope that was helpful.
it hard for me to find the right wood to make the Saya how can I get my Katana curve fit it I fallow the curve it will ask for a full amount of wood just to fallow it give this man a way to do it I do a lot of wood carving, but I am having trouble with that.
I'm curious too my Friend. .. Alder is apparently a good choice according to some woodworking channels. They say its easy to work with an relatively cheap. So good for novice woodworkers
Hello! Beautiful work! Have you looked at Josiah Boomershine's habaki? He is a young smith who polishes and makes traditional habaki for japaneses katana. Next time try using a jeweler's saw to cut habaki.😊
Excellent work. It is worth knowing that Titebond wood glue will off-gas acetic acid in the presence of moisture, for the lifetime of the material. This can cause a sword to rust. Atmospheric moisture could be enough to trigger this. The company will admit this if asked.
my advice for this video is that the blade should be straight before quenching and quench in water blade first. love the video though, this is an amazing build and the product is still incredible :)
Hi Master Moshe, You have been very busy I see. I wanted to also let you know that I replaced the Habuki on my katana. It was easier than I thought, but now the sword does not fit tightly in the Saya. I have some adjusting to do to the Saya. I think I should add some wood shims to the inside of the Saya mouth, but would like some comments from you about this before I do this. Thanks for the great video! 🙂
Bro, just no. Youre spreading misinformation. Japanese blades arent polished to a flat edge. Of course its easier to polish it flat. But doing so leaves a thin edge prone to cracking. And the back isnt polished to mirror finish, but burnished to seal off the natural pores. This is at best a japanese style blade.
Dude. Blades without niku are made all the time. Even shinken. Competition cutting blades are often made without niku to reduce drag. Opening your mouth only to insert your foot does not impress people.
Hi Moshe, I really loved your video and I like watching a Master at work. I have a customized sword from China. I had the blade done in L6 steel. They really did a beautiful job on it. They were caught by the earthquake in Longquan and work was stopped on it for about a month. The Habaki did not turn out well. I ordered a nice silver alloy Habaki to replace it. I wonder if the fit is off, would you take the job of installing the new Habaki? I am in North Carolina. Thanks again for sharing Moshe! 🙂
Hi Kavin, Thank you so much and I’m happy you liked the video. I am very busy with work and so many things that I can’t take another project now, if I would do it for you I would not charge you anything for it for sure. I wish I could help you now. When you get the Habaki just please take your time and try to do it yourself, if you really want it done I’m sure you can do it. I’m sorry I can’t help at this time Kavin. Thank you. Moshe
Copper is easier to make, U don't need to heat it when to change its shape, So I use Copper, But u did it well with brass, Nice video thanks my friend 👍
I need to repaint my saya its that standard black glossy look but it's only a certain bit of it I need to paint not all of it but I'm worried about the coulors looking different any advise?
If you own a valuable katana please don't try and repeat this process. This will ruin the finish. Using some chosera stones and a strop for an hour is absolutely not the way to go about this. Find someone who actually polishes katana and pay the premium for their years of experience in japan.
The frustrating thing for some would be buying a katana for a few grand (one that's in good shape but weathered) and paying a professional 2,3,10x the amount of the sword cost for a traditional polish that'll take months or years depending on the demand of the expert. People doing this aren't looking for museum authenticity and, with study and time, a perfectly adequate blade can be achieved for display/use. If one can afford polishing, they probably won't buy a katana that needs polishing. My opinion. It's always up to the owner of the sword.
@@michealbodnarchuk9738depends on how polished you make it and how many steps you have in grit. If you jump too much in grit/particle size, it will take forever to polish out the scratches from the lower grit stones. But it’s expensive because of the labor hours required. It’s not particularly difficult to do a decent job if your blade has a neutral straight geometry instead of a convex geometry. But unless you’re fighting people in armor or whacking away at hardwood, a flat blade geometry is adequate. Convex geometries are much harder to polish because you can’t just lay it down on the edge and go as the curve not only needs to be symmetrical, the curve gradient needs to be consistent and continuous on two axes (from spine to edge and from tsuba to tip.) the really expensive polish jobs are meant for display pieces intended as art pieces.
Hello My Katana fell from saya onto hard conkrete and has a damaged blade. My sensei told me not to fix it as I will ruin it. Do you think I can fix a slightly chipped blade and make it look as shiny as it was when new? And would the Hamon still be visible?
Minor chips and damage can happen with regular use, especially if you practice with it. I personally would not try to “fix it” unless the sword is severely damaged to where it is a safety concern or if you have a project sword that you work on for fun. It’s a tool at the end of the day and you’ll want to make sure it works for your intended uses, looking nice comes second.
Wow nice job... I was looking because I bought a, turns out, fake Confederate sword that was chemically antiqued .. so I like shiny shit and I am going to de-antique it! One comment on the hater below ... this is how some folks laud and puff up their shit so they don't smell a wet dog ... Haters abound ...
Great job. I made my first katana in 1973. It’s very difficult to see a hamon on that kind of steel so it’s not your fault. A slight acid etch might bring it out a little better. Just yesterday I polished a bayonet from the French Revolution. Your technique is good. Don’t let bad attitudes get you down. In my native tongue we say ef em! 👍🏻
Sorry but no. I've made edged weapons that others have put on you tube. I have also given many away. Im not one to brag about the talents God gave me. In everything I do, I ask God to work through my hands for others.
Bonjour , sa na pas dut être facile pour la fabrication du Saya avec des ciseaux a bois traditionnel , vous avez pris quoi comme bois ?! dommage que la traduction ne soit pas activer ! Autrement Walter Sorrells a fait de très bon DVD !! belle finition !!!!
Hello. The blade thickness at the spot of the Habaki is 6.56mm or 0.253”. The thickness of the brass plate before I started the work is 2.40mm or about 0.095”, it is just little thinner then 1/8”. If you find I thicker brass it would be a lot better and easier especially at the top, so the top right and left corners bend will have some thickness to them. I bought the brass from Ace hardware, they have it in a 12” bars if I’m not mistaken. I hope this is helpful. Good luck.
@@JoaoVictor-hy7bg Just sand the brass at the soldering areas, clean the brass really good from oil, you can use alcohol, flux it good. Heat the brass very very hot for few minutes for the solder to stick. I found out that the vise that I used to hold the brass absorbed a lot of the heat from the brass, It would be better if it doesn’t touch anything. Only placed on fire brick or something like that.
