Peter i said it before,have watched lots of ur videos and they are so educational. Ur honesty i really admire u for it.look its a big job no doubt to have to take the head of and get it pressure tested but listen anything that can b fixed is never too bad.i know i have been there and by god its frustrating. Keep up the good work and most of all keep posting.from a kerry follower
Have a mad one out in the workshop Peter - Landcruiser that went into 4wd low & then refused to shift out. Not a budge on the lever, locked solid. Never seen that before. It puzzled me that much I went back out late & stripped off the back of the transfer case to see what was up. Just getting that off was close to impossible - locked solid on the selector fork. Turns out one of the output shaft oil seals was breaking up - within the seal there's a skinny metal spring that forms part of the seal. That spring had detached, gone between the slider gear that changes output from 4wd to 2wd & had locked it solid on the shaft, stuck in 4wd position. Wouldn't happen again in 100 years, yet it happened. The chances of that small spring getting lodged there are 1 in millions. The jeep has 500,000 on the clock & gets worked to death daily - then a tiny spring that's about 2mm diameter causes it to crap the bed. I fitted a new clutch to it a month ago, so naturally it was my fault - you know the craic yourself... oh no it ain't... :-)
We use to do this with new cars that had been sitting in the showroom for a few weeks and the clutch disc had rusted stuck. Start them in gear and drive while dropping the clutch. Would break loose after pressing clutch 8 or 9 times. Good tip if you don’t have the tool.
We had exactly the same on our 2.0 tdi T5, over 200.000km, coolant loss without apparent leak, overheating and EGR valve mechanism broke…just replaced with the Pierburg and since we were busy we also removed and cleaned the DPF. Thanks for your video as I was without clue where that coolant went… now I know 😊not the most pleasant job to do
Must be a common fault 🤔 my solution will be to put a separate switch too cut the power going to the wiper motor 😁 because I am definitely not paying £200 for a switch
Good work. We see lots of issues with the fuel systems on these VAG 3.0. Usually that pump break up issue or an injector sticking open because of a carbon blow out in the cylinder.
Hi ive just did a long block replacement and this information is is exactly what i needed to continue as somewhere along the way i lost the two steel pipes that run the waste gate and change over. I had no idea wat went to what before this video. Thank you very much.... Top bloke!
Mazda tech here! This video explained the exact problem I just had on a 23 cx30, strainer was filled with the same build up, replaced strainer and pump and now my pressure is back to normal, very odd occurrence to see, I couldnt explain how it got in there to block it up. Thank you for the video!
Hey I have been facing similar issues, after having changed the injector seal, oil strainer, Oil Flush, PCM update, Intake Manifold and EGR cooler carbon cleaning. Occasionally P055F fault code pops up. It goes away after sometime. When I put an OBD then I my oil pressure will remain on 80 Kpa.. Morning when I will start the car, it remain in the range of 150 to 200 kpa and then after 10 mins drive it goes down to below 100 kpa. The engine oil levels are fine, and the oil quality is also fine. I know it is difficult to diagnose anything with limited data but just incase if you have some line of thought then pls let me know.
Great to see the throttle body. I have scbs tpms dsc and parking brake warning lights on but the code is P2118. Says it’s “throttle actuator a control motor current range/performance
Hi Peter. Another Interesting. Fault finding & Resolution video. I didn't think it would be the block connector. So that's one to remember for the future and pass on.To someone who has any type of Triptronic gear box. Cheers. See you in the next one. 👍👍
WHY ???? do they invent silly systems like this Mazda engineers must all be on drugs - OR have it in for mechanic's !!! All this start stop rubbish - to save a thimble of petrol - But they have to use gallons of fuel - to mine tonnes of copper - to make the part to save the petrol !!! LOL clown world GREAT VIDEO PETER - THANK YOU
@@rkillian7233 we are in the Waterford area. P0101 is most likely caused by intake manifold blocked & exhaust camshaft being worn. You could spend up to 2k. Only you can decide if it is worth doing unfortunately 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Do the timing chains get worn on these engines too. I was also told that the mechanism between the clutch and the gearbox could be faulty. I've no clue how he knows this. Noise or vibration perhaps? I can't remember what he said except that these mechanical parts have springs to absorb the possible vibration coming from the engine.
We're getting in the "flux capacitor" zone these days! 😂 on the next one check also the nuclear reactor in the back of the car 😂 so you can go "back to the future" safely!! Nice job!
I think you passed the hint in the first scan of the DC/DC system Peter - output current pid was at 0. Look back at the footage :-) Maybe when the other stuff got changed someone dun goofed & the control module got lightly toasted?
Brilliant work Peter! Top class as always 👍👌 I'd love to get into that converter and try locate the actual component thats causing the issue from inside it, probably something silly like a popped smd capacitor or diode 🤔
@@iangraham6730 I wouldn’t be very good with that kinda stuff Ian but I’ll check to see if I still have the old unit on Monday if you like to have a look at it 😉
@@JattaVictor I did slightly struggle on this one. It was the first time I had to figure out about DC/DC converter location etc. But we got it resolved, thank god 🙏🙏
Could you sort out a Ford Galaxy for me, 2012 TDCI . It runs very rough, idle is hunting, no power moving off, no power in low gears, car will jerk, no lights on, and then, boom Engine Malfunction comes on, at which point all the problems vanish, car runs sweet... but only for two week, as with this Engine Manfunction light on the DPF blocks up, as it must not clean DPF with this light on. Then it goes to mechanic, and they clear the DPF, tell me that was the issue, give me car back, running like a bag of spanners again, rough idle, hunting, no power moving off, no power in low gears, car will jerk in first second third, I drive like this for few days, and boom, Engine Malfunction comes back on, car runs sweet, blocks DPF in two weeks, back to Mechanic, and round and round I go. No one is fixing why its running so rough, that it's throwing the Engine Malfunction light. The DPF getting blocked is a result of the problem, not the cause. HELP!
@@isaackent2355 your thought process is correct as to the engine malfunction issue inhibiting Dpf regenerations. I would look at it no bother but the only thing with these intermittent issues are I would quite possibly need the car for a week or more. Where in Ireland are you based ??
hello, I think I have the same problem with the car, I think it's hard to turn the steering wheel when you make a more left-right turn, you also put the vaseline there
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hello, when the temperature of my 2015 model diesel Fluence vehicle is around 75 there is no fault, but when it reaches around 90 it gives the p0488 fault.
Hi, Peter, thank you for a very informative video! My garage has cleaned the intake manifold and EGR valve and the car is driving without problems again. I had suggested to them to also change the little pipe (SH01-20-870) but they said that in general problems would be solved by cleaning intake manifold and EGR valve. In your experience, is the replacement of that pipe still necessary / useful? Thanks in advance!
@@MultiCharles345 look at ‘exhaust pressure sensor A’ on live data with a scantool. It should read close to 100kpa with the ignition on, around 105kpa running. Then rise and fall fast on snap throttle, up to 300kpa or so. The pipe can be cleaned with heat & could save replacing the pipe but definitely replace the sensor if not reading correctly 😉
My leon mk3 have this fault code p00af, p334b I tried grease the actuator rode but it helped for 2 days I have notice when i try by hand(engine is off) to move the actuator rode it has a sticky point when fully open So it can stuck fully open but with a gentle push it will come back Is it a bad actuator? A wastegate seizing? Or vaccum problem?
The cam locking tools are actually very straightforward to use, though they seem quite daunting at first. When you have the cover back on you put them on in place of the actuators (use the 3 actuator bolts at 7nn), then you tightened down the 6 bolts to 15nm whilst pushing the tool pin to the left. All they do lock the cam wheels in place while you torque down the crank bolt. The tool I had wouldn't fit into the exhaust cog, but it was because the tool was assembled incorrectly. I removed the six bolts and spun the back part of the tool until it was in the correct position to push into the cam wheel slots.
.. if it isn't the Dual Clutch, it's the 1.0 ... both about the same cost aren't they?, clutch kit replacement, OR the tear down you need to do for the engine belt.
@@Russell_Duncan 😂😂😂😂😂 I just noticed the Fanta in fantastic. I’d say it must have been reddened, I probably should have stuck in a borescope and a little coolant just for kicks and giggles 🤭 I will if it is authorised, cheers Russell 👍
