I'm always on the hunt for a good project around the house. Anything is possible from building to gardening or even some cooking. If it can happen at home, you will find it here. Subscribe and be part of the adventure. Who knows what the next video might bring.
John, I live in a cold climate and have winter temperatures that average in the teens. As I explained in the video, my soil is very sandy and drains extremely well. For this reason, I am able to eliminate the need for drainage behind the wall. I also explained the proper drainage technique for those with heavier soil or even clay. I have other retaining walls on my property built the same way over 20 years ago that still look the same as the day I built them. Hope that answers your questions. Thanks for commenting!
It took me about 2-3 weeks to complete because I did it in the evening's after working my full-time job. If you take out the time for each coat of paint to dry and glue to setup, I would say 16 - 18 hours of total work time. Hope that helps.
What was the point of using more expensive hard wood for the front banding if you were just going to slap paint on it? Might as well use a cheaper wood. Personally, I would have used the same wood for the shelf panels as the banding and then stained the unit to match the kitchen cabinets.
I used hardwood on the front edges since they take the most abuse. Wanted to prevent dents and dings. I find this to be common practice. Even my kraftmaid kitchen cabinet fronts are made of maple and are also painted. I understand some people enjoy the beauty of natural wood, but we preferred a painted look for this project but wanted the durability of hardwood for the face framing. Thanks for commenting.
Excellent step by step detailed video. What type of clamp Is that? I need to buy it Also no idea about pocket hole jig? Appreciate if you can kindly guide me where to buy these items from! Thank you
Thank you! The clamps I'm using are called DuoKlamp, which is made by a company called Bessey. The pocket hole tool that I am using is an older model made by Kreg Jig. There are other companies that make pocket hole jigs as well. You can find both tools online. I have not found the DuoKlamp in any stores recently, so look online for that as well. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching.
Great question. If you glue enough ply strips together to equal the dimensions of the 2x4, I would say the strips. I also feel the strips will maintain a straighter edge. Having said that, I am not an engineer, nor have I scientifically tested this. I did do some basic test comparisons in my shop before going with the strips for my build. The results are exactly what I expected. Thanks for commenting!
Месяц назад
awesome work!!! hope my wife does not see the video 😀😀
Beautiful looking shelves. I was thinking of how to turn a closet into a pantry and came across your video. We built similar looking shelves and it came out great. Thank you for this video. Very thorough and very useful. I am curious what you used to fill in cracks between the wood before priming? Can you use joint compound? Trying to figure this out for the next step of my project. Again thanks so much for sharing and creating this video.
Thank you for watching. Between the small joint and nail holes, I use latex caulk and a spackling compound. I'm not sure if joint compound is the answer. I would probably consider other options like original bondo filler or even their wood filler. A lot depends on the size of gaps you need to fill. Hope that helps.
@@patshomeprojectsandmore5878 Thank you for responding. I was having second thoughts about the joint compound so I picked up some wood filler. Need it anyways to patch a cabinet door. Thanks for your guidance. :)
Why are flagpole company's selling flagpoles and flying a second flag less than 1 ft from the bottom of the American flag? You'd think they'd know that!
I have kept an eye on it and have checked it with a level. No sagging or gaps at any joints. It is rock solid. I hope to get a follow-up video of the pantry out soon. Thanks for commenting.
Hint: I bought a cheap Habor Freight 1/2 inch drill on sale for these types of digging projects. Also purchased a 24 inch x 2" auger bit. Using that to drill down and loosen dirt is So Much Easier than the post hole digger method.
I'm wondering how you determined how much space should be between each shelf? I'm thinking of making one set closer together with a half width shelf along the back for cans. I need one shelf tall enough for large cereal boxes, and one that's just a bit taller than say...cake mixes. I built a custom cabinet at the bottom with some shelves and some vertical dividers to hold cookie sheets and casserole dishes, as well as cubbies for wine and parchment paper boxes. I'll put one more at the top with some head space for less often used small appliances and the giant bowl that doesn't fit in our kitchen cabinets.
I think you answered your own question on this one. I basically did the same thing. Determine your tallest and odd sized items first. Figure out where you want things. I kept my heavier items like the stand mixer and food processor on a lower shelf so it would be easy to access. I elected to put less frequently used things like large cookie sheets and electric skillet on the top shelf. The great thing about building your shelves from scratch is that you can customize them to your needs. I think you're on the right track. Enjoy the build, and thanks for watching!
Clever use of a string and levels for laying out and constructing the wall and especially as it pertains to the horizontal curve. Superb job by a meticulous craftsman.
Hi Pat, thank you so much for this video. It puts things into perpective on how long this project may have tooken you. Would you mind sharing the depth of the shelves you installed? I want to do the same and think of doing 12inches but I am not sure if that is a good depth or should go wider.
Nancy, thanks for watching. The shelf depth with the oak face framing is 13" deep. It works very well with the plastic bins that we use on the shelves as seen in the video. It also prevents accumulating too much junk. My instapot, crackpot, and kitchen-aid mixer fit perfectly.
I can understand the skepticism as I did bend some of the wall construction rules. I have another wall on my property that was built the same way about 12 yrs ago. It is still standing like the day I built it. Make sure you subscribe so you get my notifications. Don't want you to miss the wall update. I appreciate your comment. Thanks for watching.
@@patshomeprojectsandmore5878 It's not what how you built it...that was fine. It's that there are so many videos of people doing these, their own way, but not showing how the wall lasted. Because it's not weeks or months but years that really separates a good wall from a bad one. It's a great looking wall and you showed some really great ways to build it. I was just trying to make a comment hoping you would show an update of the wall after a year or more.
Beautiful! I’m thoroughly impressed! I have a question for you. What is the material you were cutting away before you backfilled? It looks like a mesh fabric. Is that to prevent soil from pushing the wall out?
Thank you for watching! You're correct. It is landscape fabric. My soil is very sandy. I used the fabric to prevent the sand from working its way through the wall. In a typical retaining wall build, you would have drain pipe and gravel behind the wall to prevent water from building up. In my case, I'm trying to prevent the water from washing out the sand. So, to keep it behind the wall, I used the fabric as a filter to allow the water to pass through the wall without taking the sand with it. Hope that answers your question.
Very impressive. Could you provide some dimensions? Is that a 1x4 across the back or plywood? Plywood thickness on top? It looks extra nice with the boards on the sides so would you still do that if you had studs to attach to? Thanks
Thank you. The room is approximately 4-1/2' x 4-1/2'. The shelves at 13" deep. I use plywood strips along the back. The side panels are 3/4" plywood as well as the shelf tops. If I had studs on the side, I would not have used the panels. That was the original plan. I will say that I do like the look of the side panels. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for the questions. Everything is holding up perfectly. Put a level on it about 2 weeks ago, and it's still completely level. No sagging or stress cracks. We use a lot of those plastic bins seen at the end of the video to store so much stuff. Those bins can be a little hefty when full. I also store a heavy kitchen-aid mixer and food processor as well as crockpot, blender, waffle maker, pots, and a few cast iron pans. I have been giving some thought to doing a follow-up video on the pantry. Your question may help make that video a reality. Thanks!
Amazing craftsmanship and detail. This is inspiring to start our pantry this month. Two questions: 1) how did you mount your end board to the wall that had no studs? The corner has a stud and there is the top and bottom plates. With 10 ft ceilings, it seems like a lot of effort to go all the way to top. 2) how far apart do you space the cross braces (front to back wall), 16 in? Thanks.
Great questions! So, let's answer the first question. You don't really need to secure the side panels because everything is connected to the back wall framing, which is anchored to the studs. Once you add your side and front framing, everything, including your side walls, becomes one unit. If you feel more comfortable knowing the sides are attached, screws the side panels into the top and bottom plate and a few screws into any stud you can attach to. Hide the screws by placing them where your shelf will be located. As for the cross bracing, I believe I split the difference, so they ended up at about 18". Adding more will provide additional support. Thanks for commenting. Best wishes on your pantry project.
Hi Pat, what plywood type did you use? Cabinet grade for frame and sanded for shelves? After doing my planning I am realizing how much prep you did to complete all the plywood gluing. Did you just glue long strips and then cut? Appreciate your tips.
I used B grade, sanded. Since I was painting everything, a few flaws in the wood wasn't a big deal. I glued long strips and then cut to size. It does require more clamps while gluing, so keep that in mind. Hope that helps
What an awesome build. I enjoyed the step by step and the lack of annoying music. I am at the point where I have my pantry demo done and finalizing the build this was a great video. Thanks
Sorry Pat but those Guards do not work ..at least for me, Here in Charleston,SC we have storms that throw buckets of rain all at once, even the fully cleaned deep gutters dont hold the volume..those little slats will not keep the water from flowing over and destroying the flower beds. I will say they would work if its a drizzle.
Thanks for commenting. I appreciate your input. I'm sure there are storms that can overwhelm just about any gutter system. I think I would still prefer to rake up some washed-out mulch a few times a year than climbing a ladder over and over cleaning out the gutters. Just saying!
Well, I think you had it. I call it a mixing tub. You can usually find it in the aisle with concrete mixes and cement blocks. Hope that helps! Happy mixing
Thank you! Since this pathway was going up to the house, I wanted to make sure it pitched away from the house slightly. So I took into consideration the thickness of the pavers plus how much compacted gravel would be used for the base. In my case, the paver was 3" thick, and I went with approximately 3" sand (typically 6"of gravel is used)as the base. My soil is very sandy and drains extremely well, allowing me to get away with just 3". Once I knew that and I knew it had to match the level of my existing, I used that walkway as my reference point. I made the height at the house the same as the top of the cement walkway. I then gradually dug down as i got closer to the existing walkway so that I was 6" down below grade. Watch my retaining wall video, I show a few different ways to measure the grade at different points for references. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching.
Pat thank you for sharing this ill be starting a hidden pantry soon in the UK very excited to implement some of your design and improvements to our home. Have you got plans to do more videos?
Hidden pantry.... That sounds interesting! I'm glad you found some value in my videos. I have more project videos in the works as well as a shop build. Stay tuned! Thanks for commenting
