Great video. I have a 2005 that needs a new hood. Can you give me an approximate cost for all the parts you show/purchased for this job? Hood and freight cost, Tensioners, hardware, lights, mirror, etc. trying to wrap my head around the cost of doing this the right way.
@@timglass3101 I paid $2300 for the hood. It’s a factory Freightliner hood. There was no freight cost on that. All the hardware nuts bolts washers it was about 100 dollars. I also replaced the cab mounts $200 for the pair. The hood tensioners were $230. The hood straps were $50, the hood isolation bushings two of them were $20. $500 for the headlights they are junk headlights just a FYI. I can’t find the invoice for the mirrors.
@@BlockBallerRecords Got it! I appreciate that and thank you. For me to get the software, I had to give the manufacturers the serial number of my computer and $1400. I need to find me a rich woman. lol.
@@WJonez no problem that’s a lot of Money 💰🤬But most people that get pirated software know which sites to go to and know how to Read the files of the download to make sure they are virus free trust me I know a lot of mechanics and musicians that use pirated software
I can’t say for sure, but it shouldn’t be no more than $500. The parts aren’t expensive. It’s the labor and I’m not sure what shops are charging per hour now.
You were afraid of your old wheel losing a trailer. My 8 week old Fontaine dropped one right on the road. Then 2 days later wouldn’t lock. Had to buy another Fifth wheel.
Would you dig a post hole around the electrical lines? I am wondering if the water would be a safety issue by cutting or damaging the insulation on the lines.
I can definitely understand the concern with using high pressure water around electrical lines. Example: CNC water jet tables will cut thought steel plate with ease. CNC water jet table's operate at 50,000 psi or more. Most power washer will not exceed 4,000 psi, my power washer is rated at 3200 psi. Although, when washing the engine bay of my truck, I have cut though fan belts! But I've never cut though the wiring harness. Direct burial electrical supply lines are pretty tough. Where I live electrical supply line are installed in the ground using a horizontal directional drill. Look up "horizontal directional drill" I found it to be interesting being that they can install 1,000 ft of wire with minimal surface disturbance because the wire is pulled under the ground, No trench is needed. Now, when I was using the power washer and shop vac to install my fence posts, I encounter two holes that had the phone line running through them. The power washer didn't cut through the phone line which have thinner insulation. If I would've used post hole diggers or even an auger. It would have torn that phone line up. With that being said, most utilities are buried 3 ft away from the property lines "set back" (I can tell a funny story about installing a fence and "Set back" which involves a county code enforcer, a 10-in auger bit and a gas line. When the judge made his ruling, the county paid for the damages because the code enforcer didn't understand the regulations.) Anyways, I would recommend the Hydro Excavation method (power washer/vacuum) as a safer alternative. But each situation is different. Just make the best decision that keeps you safe.
where to get the hood tensioner from? I love this video. A log truck backed into mine at a truck store where I use to park my truck, he felt like I was taking his spot, smh. But anyway, the hood is rubbing against the fenders. I replaced the hood bumpers and was gonna replace the hood, but I think with replacing the hood tensioner or tightening the tensioner may help raising and pushing the hood forward might help a little more.
I got the hood tensioners from a local company called ProFleet. They have an affiliation with Freightliner. 100FA17-14047-000, 100FA17-14047-001 that’s the part numbers for the hood tensioners. There is a left and right. If someone backed into the front of your truck, I would definitely check the front crossmember, it could be bent causing the problem with your hood. I would also check to see if the crossmember is rubbing into the intercooler or radiator.
@@WJonez I’m pondering wether to do it myself or take it to a shop . I just have an impact and sockets . None of those tools you used to take the pins out And no pulley system 😅. All muscle
@@DOAN1000 If you can turn the pins with a pair of pliers and get them out, you will not need the air hammer. You can lift the hood with just two people, so you really don't need a Gantry crane either. The hood is just big and awkward but not that heavy.
The motor will run backwards compared to the blade, if you’re looking at the side that houses the belt and pulleys. The motor runs clockwise. Other than that, I am not sure.
Clockwise and counter clockwise are logical and make sense. Hou can't turn a circle left without turning it right on the opposite side. That expression has never made sense.
My apologies for taking so long to reply, I was looking for the invoice but it did not show the bearing size, it was just a part number that was useless.
The thread pitch on a hub pilot they’re pretty much all the same. I believe it’s 22 mm x 1.5 mm. The head of the stud, length and knurled shank is wants different. If you’re looking for replacement, studs, you have two options either knock one out take it to the parts store. They’ll bring out a Euclid book and you match up the stud you have. Second option, you can call the manufacturer. They should be able to tell you a part number. When it comes to stud pilots, hub pilots and even Dayton hubs. The studs are completely different from one another.
I try to think of every possible combination or scenario and then adapt. Sometimes I get it right sometimes I get it wrong. However, I do believe keeping things organized in a shop allows the shop to operate more efficiently.
The diode is used for a back feeding problem. When the motor is in the high side; the wiper arm comes around to the part feature and slows down then speeds up. So the diode prevents the wiper motor from slowing down when the switch is in high. The park feature in a nutshell; is a ground, but it’s also an open circuit. As the motor is turning, the park feature changes from open circuit, ground, open circuit. If I had another motor, I probably could wire it without the diode, but I don’t have another motor.
@@WJonez mine’s embarrassing 🙈 yours is good. I’m inspired to all some changes. New tractor with forks and a lift table has partly replaced most of the cherry picker function except installing a milling machine in bits, it is still a good thing. Lives outside.
I'm glad you asked that question because I did not have a filter in that shop vac! Because I forgot to put the sponge filter in it. Lol. I did tear the shop-Vac apart after I was done and clean the mud out of it. I truly torture that Shop-Vac but it still works as of today!
I can, I just have to figure out how to post a picture to the comment. I’ve never posted a picture in comments. I’ll see what I can do. It may take me a minute.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OBhP2sQJEnI.htmlsi=RZtV246chlht8Jct I could not post a picture in the comment, I made a 1-minute video.
Awesome, I'm going to try this with my electrical power washer. Mine is not as powerful but I have one of these turbo nozzles, so it'll be fun to try for sure. Cheers for the info. I agree with you on how to kill a power washer for sure, don't let it idle forever.
I totally agree with you on the driver facing camera I would never do that Total invasion of your personal space If they want to have a camera monitoring the motoring public around you it's probably in your best interest so more power to that..
Beautiful work with the casters. I have the same crane and problem - simply plasma cut 18” from the bottom of the large vertical tube, but I like your solution! Excellent.
I like your gate, I made one out of chain link- two 4x6 ( up right) and two 6x6 for a total all opening of 20'6" and pined with three lift up pins at the bottom. Im' building two new gates at my new house out of 2" thin wall tubing and facing it with white roofing tin on metal 4x4 post. the rest of the yard is done in 6' vinyl fence but the gates I want in steel because vinyl sucks gates over 4'. I may use your pinging system at the top and 3 ground pins at the bottom. gate opening #1 13' 4" and #2 is 14' 6". Thanks